92 PA not starting.

[ellev8or]

It has 116000 miles with a tune-up at 3000 miles ago. Tune up consisted of new spark plugs, wires, and fuel filter. Did I miss anything in the tune-up area?

I was running a few errands and returned to the vehicle to head home and it wouldn't start. The battery and alternator was checked a few weeks ago and it certainly doesn't seem electrical or the starter. I feels as if no spark or gas is getting to it's destination to start; if I'm making any sense.

Is there anything I need to check for or change like maybe the O2 sensor?

I'm without my other car so I need to get the PA up and running immediately.

Whatever help you provide is always appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[gmtech1]

Check fuel pressure, should be 48-55psi. Also, verify you have spark.

[ellev8or]

How do I check fuel pressure and verify I have spark?

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by ellev8or

How do I check fuel pressure and verify I have spark?

Get a fuel pressure tester & spark tester at AZ, Advanced, or O'Reilly-Kragen Auto parts and just follow the directions on both.

[ellev8or]

I'm going to AZ now and would like to purchase everything I need at that moment.

If the fuel pressure is low what would I need to do to return it to its proper pressure or what parts would need to be purchased?

If there's no spark, what would I need to do to remedy that area?

Thanks guys.

[ellev8or]

Gentlemen, my apologies.

I've been so busy that I forgot to mention the code 43: Electronic Spark Control/Timing.

I assume this would be the problem. If so, is this a major thing and what does this mean as for cost, labor and can it be down by a simpleton?

Thanks

[HotZ28]

Are you sure that the code was 43?

Code 42
4 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
The Electronic Spark Timing (EST) signal did not change when the ECM applied bypass voltage to the ignition module. Check for faulty connections, or a faulty ignition module.

Code 43
4 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
Knock sensor signal was either above 3.5 volts or below 1.5 volts for at least 20 seconds. Check for a faulty knock sensor, or Mem-Cal.

[Tech II]

You still need to check the essentials....do you have fuel pressure? should be around 40 psi or greater(guess)....

Do you have spark? Do you have injector pulse(need a noid light to check)?.....

If you have fuel pressure, but no spark AND no injector pulse, could be crank sensor or ICM(ignition control module)......if you are getting an rpm signal, then I would suspect the ICM....

O2 sensor does not come into play on startup....

[ellev8or]

Yes sir, I am sure.

I check the "Service Engine Soon" indicator with a few AutoZone reps and they all came up with code 43; they performed it exactly the way you have listed.

I'm currently attempting to remove the ICM to have AZ check it but I can't seem to get to the last screw underneath the ICM; somethings blocking it. I tried removing the coils on top but the bolts appear to be plastic and I don't want to mess them up. Is there a special tool for those bolts? What should I do to remove the ICM?

I'll just replace the knock sensor and if necessary all coils with new wires and plugs; if nothings wrong with the ICM.

Thanks Gentlemen

[maxwedge]

The knock sensor will not prevent a start, I wouldn't do anything till you have an accurate diagnosis.

[ellev8or]

I managed to get the new ICM in and what a ding-bat I feel like; the simplest thing, but the fricken Automatic Leveling System drained the battery and now I can't check to see if it will start; I did all this in the cold; so awful.

I will try to get a jump from a neighbor in the morning and I'll update you then.

Thanks guys.

[ellev8or]

The results of what was done thus far:

Had the ICM checked at AutoZone and it passed, but the guy stated that when in operation and hot the ICM can still malfunction. He checked the resistance on the coils and his answers were not concrete. I sort of felt he was trying to bait me into purchasing parts I didn't really need.

But due to further investigation it was learned my battery was bad. I charged it overnight and reconnected it this morning; the car started but this time there was a red light to the upper left side of the battery meter on the dash and the battery meter was registering below 12v. What could this mean? I was wondering if its a sign of the alternator going bad or maybe the battery.

AutoZone uses this tool to check voltage and other things on a battery; can they manipulate your battery by doing so? Clearly what I 'm asking is can the input a certain code in this tool that they use to check batteries to make it deliver a "Bad Battery" message? I'm asking because I have a few cars and constantly have had the batteries checked, but what I noticed today was the woman kept pressing buttons and then showed me the "Bad Battery" message. I've never seen anyone do that before. They connect the tool to the post, key in voltage, CCA, and may car info and that's it, wait for the results. This woman kept pressing buttons.

Anyway, I purchased a new battery from AZ. I just got tired of messing with it.

But since I have the code 43, install a new knock sensor?

Thanks

[HotZ28]

But since I have the code 43, install a new knock sensor?

As mentioned, the knock sensor will not cause a no start condition. Do not waste money on parts that are not needed. BTW, if the AZ person is using a load tester to check the battery, the longer it is connected under load, the less battery voltage will show. It sounds like the person does not know how to operate the load tester. Go to another auto parts store & request the same test.