02 HD2500 4x4 - Removing Rear Caliper Bolts

[Ol'Jim]

I know I'd seen a few posts on this subject several years ago, can't find the ones I was looking for.

I know the 1/2 ton trucks used a smaller bolt, with less torque, and yellow Locktite. This is a 3/4T, and I thought they just used plain threads, and 80 Ft Lb torque at the factory. Either way, I cannot get the suckers loose. Torx T-55 bit, I can't find anyone that makes a 1/2" drive bit. Broke a decent-looking 3/8" drive Lisle 2-piece bit, (Chrome body, black working tip), now I bought a 1-piece, hardened, all black one, (also from Lisle).
1/2" breaker bar, with adapter to 3/8", and still won't budge. Took my1/2" drive Impact gun, (I know, probably shouldn't have), and worked up to highest setting, even cranked my compressor up to 125 PSI - That sucker STILL won't come loose!!
(Even if it DID, there is not room to get to the upper bolts, they are in line with the leaf springs, can't even fit the breaker bar, adapter & bit). Bought a 3/8 breaker bar, to eliminate the adapter. I am certain it will break, if I use a cheater pipe. At least it's a Kobalt from Lowes, so lifetime replacement.
PLEASE SHARE ANY TIPS that have actually worked for you, THANKS!!
(Hoping to NOT have to use a torch)...

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Ol'Jim

I know I'd seen a few posts on this subject several years ago, can't find the ones I was looking for.

I know the 1/2 ton trucks used a smaller bolt, with less torque, and yellow Locktite. This is a 3/4T, and I thought they just used plain threads, and 80 Ft Lb torque at the factory. Either way, I cannot get the suckers loose. Torx T-55 bit, I can't find anyone that makes a 1/2" drive bit. Broke a decent-looking 3/8" drive Lisle 2-piece bit, (Chrome body, black working tip), now I bought a 1-piece, hardened, all black one, (also from Lisle).
1/2" breaker bar, with adapter to 3/8", and still won't budge. Took my1/2" drive Impact gun, (I know, probably shouldn't have), and worked up to highest setting, even cranked my compressor up to 125 PSI - That sucker STILL won't come loose!!
(Even if it DID, there is not room to get to the upper bolts, they are in line with the leaf springs, can't even fit the breaker bar, adapter & bit). Bought a 3/8 breaker bar, to eliminate the adapter. I am certain it will break, if I use a cheater pipe. At least it's a Kobalt from Lowes, so lifetime replacement.
PLEASE SHARE ANY TIPS that have actually worked for you, THANKS!!
(Hoping to NOT have to use a torch)...

looks like you have answered your own question..

the propane torch with a small tip will do it..get the fastener hot so its smoking and then install the tool , graduallly increase the torque...

this should soften the thread sealant material...

best that they are hard to remove , it sucks when they fall out...never use any lube on these fasteners...use some med duty thread sealant/lock ......

I got a very good quality bit at sears in the automotive tool department...not the crapsman tool section

[Ol'Jim]

Thanks J Cat.

So do I concentrate the heat on the head of the bolt? Seems like that would make it tighter, from heat expanding the bolt.
I was thinking about things like wrist-pins and connecting rods, how you always heat the outer component, (con-rod), and cool the inner item, (pin), to obtain more clearance.
Will the torch treatment destroy/damage the caliper? No worries about warped bores, melted seals, etc?

Last Q for you: My local Sears store, (where I got the better of the Torx Bits), has an Automotive Service Center out in the parking lot, and the standard tool section in the store, which is mostly Craftsman stuff. Did not see any Automotive specialty type tools in the store. Do they sell any tools in the Service center? (And is that where you bought yours)? Is it 3/8" drive?

Thanks again.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Ol'Jim

Thanks J Cat.

So do I concentrate the heat on the head of the bolt? Seems like that would make it tighter, from heat expanding the bolt.
I was thinking about things like wrist-pins and connecting rods, how you always heat the outer component, (con-rod), and cool the inner item, (pin), to obtain more clearance.
Will the torch treatment destroy/damage the caliper? No worries about warped bores, melted seals, etc?

Last Q for you: My local Sears store, (where I got the better of the Torx Bits), has an Automotive Service Center out in the parking lot, and the standard tool section in the store, which is mostly Craftsman stuff. Did not see any Automotive specialty type tools in the store. Do they sell any tools in the Service center? (And is that where you bought yours)? Is it 3/8" drive?

Thanks again.

the tool was in the automotive repair side of the store. there they had where I go tools in that section that are better/stronger..

ya I bought one of those t55 torx sockets with lifetime warrantee and yes it broke. the one in the sears autorepair tool section did not.

the T-55 needs to be flat on the bottom...it must not be tapered or round on the bitter end..

I have worked on vehicles that required rusted fasteners to be removed ..the torch works by heating the fastener which does expand it.,. It also heats up the metal around it and expands the bore when your torch is on the stud...then with the cold T-55 being placed on the hot stud the stud rapidly cools this then allows rotation...any rotation is good..If it binds up you stop and again add some heat and repeat this process..keep the T-55 in Ice Water until your gonna use it to remove the stud...

[Ol'Jim]

Just wanted to post what worked for me on these bolts:
1. Bought some PB Blaster, (or Blaster PB?). Similar to Liquid Wrench, but I'd heard from several folks that it works the best.
2. Spray around bolt head, let soak in a few minutes.
3. Bang on bolt head several times, with hammer. Re-spray, then bang some more. Not kill-shots, just a bunch of pretty-good raps.
4. Repeat Steps 2 & 3, two more times.
5. Insert T-55 Bit into bolt. Bang on back end of bit several sharp blows with hammer.
6. Bolts that were previously un-movable with Maxed-Out Impact Gun came loose quite easily!
NOTE: Do not destroy the rubber boots on these bolts, none of the parts stores stock them, other than NAPA!! There are no threads under them, so no need to spray PB Blaster in there. (Learn from my experience)!