idling problem

[aleksey]

If you have the space to do it - it's not too difficult. You will have to drain your coolant prior to doing this since it's located in the lower hose. That's the bad part. It would be much easier if it was up top. I took it to a local shop & $70 later it was all done for me.

[94AccordEX]

When you had problem, was it revving up/down only after driving around a bit and then it happened only when you put car into park or neutral? But did not occur in drive? Want to make sure we have same problem.

[aleksey]

Yes, it was only jumping up & down in park & after driving for a while. I also barely had any heat & the temp gauge was always dead cold. That's what initially got me thinking it was a faulty thermostat that was stuck in the open position.

[94AccordEX]

hmmm, exactly the same except heat I get is too much even at #1 fan setting. Temp gauge did bottom out tho. Looks like we got same problem.

[Hondaman56]

Super, glad it worked out. I have not gotten to mine yet. Last week the weather was horrible, and this weekend the wife wanted to go to the car show in Philly. She hit a pot hole Friday, and now the steering shakes so I'll be off to Honda service soon one way or another.

[Hondaman56]

I just did mine tonite and the heat is much much better. The wife will be very happy. My temp gauge stayed up even during a drive in the cold weather. I've not had the idle stay high and pulse so far, we'll see how that goes. My old Thermostat was wide open so we had a problem there anyway.

Its not too hard to replace. Before you do anything, get the thermostat AND a replacement washer mounting ring. Do not let them sell you a thin O ring type gasket, thats for the upper radiator hose housing, this gasket ring is round and the edges of the thermostat fit into a groove inside its circumference. The indent goes where the locating pin is on the thermostat. This MUST be replaced if you remove the old thermostat. You need to remove the air intake tube, then there is a bolt on a bracket that holds the main wire harness, which is two pieces, together. Remove that bolt and flip the half bracket up out of your way. The next bolt holds on the other side of that harness bracket, and is threaed into the thermostat housing. Remove that bolt, the bracket is attached to more harnesses below so leave it for now. Unplug the wire from the temp gauge sensor and lean aside. Drain radiator about a gallon or so. Remove clamp, and pull off radiator hose. There are two slightly longer bolts that hold on the thermostat housing. The lower one is below that bracket attachment point and you'll need to hold that bracket out of your way to get it off. Do that lower one first. Then do the upper bolt. The housing should come off easily. Now is the trick. Gently use a flat blade medium or small screwdriver and work the thermostat and its mounting ring out. Put your new mounting ring gasket on the new Thermostat using the old one as a guide. Its truckey holding the new one in place so it does not fall out before you get the housing into place. This must be done pefectly or you'll get a leak. Replace the upper bolt first and snug up then the lower. Reverse install for all the attachments, refill the radiator and start the motor and let it get warm. You'll know if you got a leak right away because as soon as the water pump starts pushing water it will leak, even if the thermostat is not open. If it leaks, you know what you got to do. You can use a little Permatex gray form a gasket material made especially for thermostat housings if you want. Use a small amount on the outer bead of the rubber mounting ring that sits in the groove on the engine side then press the thermostat with its ring into place. The permatex will help hold it in place while you get the housing lined up and installed. Will not hurt to put a small bead of gasket material just around the water opening on the housing before installation. Not too much, just enough to fill any minute voids. Reinstall your attachments and test.

[My90AccordEx]

Originally Posted by kruzer71

try adjusting your dile control valve.. There should be 2 screws that you have to remove and turn the valve clockwise till it's snug not tight... try that and see what happens...

Hello, i read about this before. Some said their accord run like champ after doing what you described from above. However, I did that but nothing happen. My car still shakes during idle. What could my other problems?

[h_accord_90]

my 90 accord has the sme problem..i have a 90 f22a ..i have fix the problem to the idling 95%..there is a object directly bolted on to your manifold (right side) it has two small screws on it..the throttle cable is leaning right on it..take the screws out and youll see a plastic thing with a metal object in the center..if it looks likes it un screwed..screw it back in..not all the way but snug

[h_accord_90]

that thing i was talking about is the ildle control valve

[J00ky]

I posted a thread with a similar issue. it only does it when its cold, however, it goes away when the engine warms up. Im speculating a faulty sensor...