ARTA NSX 2005 - Tamiya - 1/24

[kans0002]

Chciałem powiedzieć coś w języku polskim również, lubię swoją pracę bardzo.

=)

[Macio4ever]

Thank you again Gentleman! I felt my eyes wet

As I said before all those comments make my motivation going higher up and give me lots and lots of modeling fun.

There will be some more surprises so stay tuned.

[Macio4ever]

Still trying to print better decals... In the meantime I decided to add driver cooling duct. I saw Alex Kustov method with teflon tape but decided to try differnet route. I used heat shrinking tubes. I used screws and my own cable threaded needle. Partialy succesful



Test 1 - on screw and painted with Tamiya TS paint


Test 2 - on needle



Test 2 looks better but not best - a bit out of scale. I will look for smaller screw and will see if manage to get better air duct.

[Entau]

I like your dash panel, very very neat & detail fantastic work!

[Macio4ever]

Panel decals are ready. I yhink they looks OK for the first time I made so small decals. One tag is about 0.4mm high







I have created additiona decals for the dash: LCD monitor with Panasonic logo and two decals on the top of the carbon panel.

[Macio4ever]

Steering wheel decaled. Just belive me - it is readable Not as neat as Tamiya decals. I hope that I will get macro lens soon so there will be more details to watch.



I think that without lettering it would look still ok so I am not sure if the current effect was worth an effort I have put.



On this pic lettering is seen better. Still not convincig and carbon decal looks completely not as in real.

[rollin80s]

wow, i think the decals look good. the lettering in 1/24 is way to small for the average inkjet.

that dash is just insane with all the switches and buttons. keep it up man, i get a bit excited when i see an updated in my email..lol

[Macio4ever]

Originally Posted by rollin80s

wow, i think the decals look good. the lettering in 1/24 is way to small for the average inkjet.

that dash is just insane with all the switches and buttons. keep it up man, i get a bit excited when i see an updated in my email..lol

I agree with your opinion, on the wheel I hit the limit. Lettering on floor panel is OK but on the steering wheel I would need 1200 or 2400 dpi to get decent results. Anyway I left it as it is.

The only interior things left are: cooling air pipe and small tag with Autobacs logo.

Step 5. (Steering wheel). Painted with semi gloss clear than switches added (Hobby design and 0,45mm plastic rod) and painted.

Steering wheel is glued in place, communication cable added (0,15mm copper wire).

I am not sure that all mods to wheel were worth an effort I put. A bit overkill I supose. If I put carbon and paint switches it would look still very good.

Some new pics.

[Macio4ever]

Time to start body preparation. I have few ideas to improve body finish.
Reference pics:




There are some details I want to take into account in detailing my nsx
- Screws on the rear fender - green arrow /I will use PE screws/
- Rear mesh is mounted in different way than Tamiya suggest as well as painting scheme - grey arrow
- Exhaust mounting points and auxiliaries
- Air intakes - just to make sure that screws are like in real - yellow arrows
- Hood pins different on rear and front hood - blue arrow

I will putty front fenders but later on as they are extremely fragile and I might break them while sanding.
I will start with basic surface preparation. I will change my usual method in two ways. First I will use regular Tamiya grey acrylic paint to revise how surface is sanded. I will strip off grey, use 1 layer of white primer and then I will start painting white and red. I want to reduce number of layers to avoid flooding delicate details.
Second - I will paint body underneath with silver then black for 2 purposes: light reflection and make body fully opaque to preserve color tone.


Removing ejector pin marks with my new sanding tool (toy.)



I remove plastic screws (red arrow) and make holes for PE parts. Panel lines got some treatment.



Side mirrors - they need to be mounted in completely different way than Tamiya offered.



Modified rear fender mesh support - left Tamiya

[Macio4ever]

Rear meshes support glued and puttied.



I also decided to modify rear wing support. Tamiya version has right shape but is thick as hell (1mm). I built my own from 0,5mm styrene sheet /left, dry fitted/. I will use metal screws to mount it together an some glue. Leaving moving parts would complicate assembly without any additional gains.

[mike@af]

I am excited to see your talents applied to the body work. I like the thinned out rear mesh supports and the wing uprights. Keep up the great work mate!

[jaykay640]

Excellent work all around! I don't care too much for this car to be honest but i'm always looking forward to your updates. Well worth watching!

[rx7king]

that interior is flawless! excited to see more body work from you

[Macio4ever]

Great that you like my work!
Short update. I have modified rear wing to accomodate new uprights. I used a piece of styrene to build thin and even gaps and light curing putty to fill the rest of the hole.



New wing uprigts just glued



Drilled front air intakes. I drill holes for two reasons: it is easier to paint and polish, second - in original car screw heads are not over body surface.

[Macio4ever]

Rear wing dry fitted. I will have to correct uprights mounting points on the hood. Small change, lots of work.



Analyzing picture I have concluded that vertical parts of the wing are far to thick and have to be corrected.

Right one before diet, left - skimmed down.



Milled down from 1,06mm to 0,65mm