Setup Questions

[1ARACE]

Its winter time and its time to up the hp before spring. Problem is I'm having trouble deciding which way to jump before I dump the cash...been doing a lot of reading, researching and talking to stang gurus but now i'm stuck. Here's the scenario:

-95 GT/vert - 23k miles -stock engine -AOD -bassani x-pipe -flowmaster exhaust -255/35 yokohamas

Got a good deal on a vortech s-trim...but before it goes on im building the upper half of the engine first (h/c/i)

For budget I was looking at the package deal summit offers with the holley systemax kit or the trickflow kit. I read some good reviews on the tw heads and track heat intake for the trickflow. Haven't heard much on the systemax though. I was gonna go with the AFR 185's but would be more expensive by time I buy cam/intake/rockers etc. But maybe its worth the extra $$$ to get AFR's or will I be happy with the trickflow/holley kit? I'm also increasing airflow by getting BBK longtube headers as well to finish off my exhaust.

stock AOD = = to be removed. Looking into getting a tremec tko but having problems finding a good place to get the conversion kit from...funny the conversion kit costs more than the tranny from one place i seen it (ampperformance.com). Does the conversion kits come with the clutch? and if so are they any good? (just wondering...if anyone else has done a AOD-manual swap could enlighten me). Tranny cooler will be installed and 3:73 gears.

Switching to 30lb injectors, 255lph in-tank pump. MSD 6A, 8.5mm wires.

Local stang guru that is going to help me with this big job said stock block/crank/pistons will hold the power since only 23k on engine. Future plan would to be to stroke it to 347 and run forged interals...but not this year.

I'm also looking into suspension as well, figured might as well do it this year because I want to enjoy the power of the car and with low pro tires...traction and wheel hop may be a problem. Seen a lot of people running eibach...any recommendations for keeping the tires planted? any good kits available?

On a side note...with this sort of setup...how much boost should be ran? I was thinking between 9-15. I do plan on finding someone to custom burn a chip and possibly get it on a dyno (soon as I find someone that is relatively close in NW Ohio).

This is the vision i've been tossing around and to me it seems like it will work good...but i'd love from some experienced stangers. I've been reading so many forums, reviews, and ad's that my eyes have rolled back in my head and now I feel confused on which way to jump .

Thanks for taking the time to read this big post and thanks for any feedback you can offer.

Heres some eye candy after reading all this...so here's my stang.

[SkylineUSA]

See, here is the thing. There are so many options to get the same result.

I would go with a TFS stage 1 cam, 1.7rr, 185 AFRs, track heat intake or Edle RPM. Then the S-Trim.

If you are going to put all that on a 347, I would upgrade the block as well. If you are putting that much power, it would only be a matter of time before you split the stock block.

[SkylineUSA]

The Holley Systemax is the same design as the Vortech, and the Saleen. Its not bad, but there are better. I run the Vortech intake, but then again, my engine was built back in 96.

[1ARACE]

The Holley Systemax is the same design as the Vortech, and the Saleen. Its not bad, but there are better. I run the Vortech intake

...say what?

[eillob]

Nice stang

[stang_racer20]

for some real nice traction, get some upper/lower control arms and some stiffer springs to start. then get shocks/struts, subframes, etc.

you said you wanna put a cooler on the auto right?

[SkylineUSA]

Originally Posted by 1ARACE

...say what?

Yep, the same. Its also the same as the Weiand Stealth as well.

[1ARACE]

Anyone know much about the conversion kits that are out there?

I would go with a TFS stage 1 cam, 1.7rr, 185 AFRs, track heat intake or Edle RPM.

I figured spending the extra money for the AFR route would be a good idea...just looking for feedback on the TF/Holley kit offered...figure if I can pull about the same hp and performance as the AFR route it would save me some $$$. I know i'll have to notch the pistons for the 185's for clearance...pretty sure wouldnt have to with the 165's/TW/Holley heads tho.

See heres the thing tho...if I was going to stroke it and run forged internals...wouldn't it be better to just buy a crate motor? Because I would be basically rebuilding the entire thing anyway. I've looked around at some crate motors...but have'nt found one that runs forged internals. This is why im not sure which way to jump....because I really cant tell how long the stock block will last with this setup...I know it depends on how you drive it...but I don't really ever beat the shit out of my stang...I just tromp on it when I'm being challenged by other cars other than that I just cruise it during the summer. I have 24k miles on the car now...the stock block/crank/pistons could last to 100k or it could take a shit 10k miles down the road...so I guess this is just a case of pay me now or pay me later huh?

...and I haven't ordered anything yet so I'm trying to decide the most reasonable route to go and save a little money where I can.
my visa -> <- me

[SkylineUSA]

Any of the crate engines you see, can be built with forged internals, you just have to ask.

What do you care about when it comes to the car? Just beating the other guy? When you get into that game, it will always come down to has the deeper pockets, most of the time.

[HiFlow5 0]

If it were my car, here's what I would.

Motor with stock bottom end, seeing it still has low mileage;
Edelbrock Performer II intake
AFR 165 heads (no piston notching required)
1.6 rr's
New lifters, pushrod and ARP head studs.
Crane 2030 cam, or TFS stage 1(50 state legal)
75mm MAF meter
70mm TB
Pulleys
3 core radiator
190 LPH fuel pump
30 lb-hr injectors
adj FPR.

For the tranny;
3000 rpm stall converter
Trans cooler
Quality shift kit or manual VB.
3.73's in the rearend, or 4.10's with good traction
Alum driveshaft

With all that done, you will have roughly 325-350 BHP and a car that should be able to run very low 13's, and maybe even high 12's with good driver and traction.

[SkylineUSA]

But, the 185s would give him room to grow later, since he wants to go FI.

But, I do agree with ya. That is a good solid combo, but there are a lot of those in the Mustang world

Not like back in the day, when your only power option was to port some old 351W heads Yes, I am old.

[HiFlow5 0]

Come on now old timer, things are much better now then they were back in your day! LOL

[1ARACE]

HiFlow -- would underdrive pulleys do much of anything with a s/c on it? cause i have a vortech s-trim.
Wouldnt it be better to just run a 255lph pump?
Wouldnt the stock lifters still be good to run?
The s/c comes with the t-rex inline fuel pump...would i need a adj. fpr? if so what for?
Thats good advice HiFlow and Sky...thats pretty much the original way I was gonna go before I ran across those combo kits in summit....see the great thing about summit is if you order over $500 you can get 0% apr for a year on their speed card...which is pretty nice imo.

...and i'm still not sure if 185 or 165 AFR's are the way to go....true you dont have to notch 165 but for like $20-30 more you can get 185...dont you think its worth it?

I'm still looking for info/feedback on conversion kits...nobody has heard about people who has bought them? any thing to watch out for.....the AOD -> manual swap is what i'm most leary about...i dont want to get screwed with some junk ass conversion kit and regretting i bought it...know what i mean. The rest is pretty much bolt on and you know what your getting, but I know there are diff types of conversion kits out there....i'm just not sure which are the reputable ones ya know.

Thanks again for the feedback.

[SkylineUSA]

If your going to boost, I would not even consider 165s. They will bottle neck the engine.

HiFlow,

That hurt

[HiFlow5 0]

Originally Posted by SkylineUSA

If your going to boost, I would not even consider 165s. They will bottle neck the engine.

HiFlow,

That hurt

True dat about the 165's if blown. I'm not sure if a 255 LPH fuel pump will be necessary if your running a T-rex and an adj. regulator. Pulleys should be fine even with a s/c set up.

Come on Skyline, you know I was only joking with ya? My birthday is in 2 weeks, I feel pretty old myself! LOL