97 S-10 blazer trys to start but will not

[iceman3032003]

I have 1 97 blazer 4.3 w motor I bought it from a guy who said it just stopped one day while driving. he put on a new fuel pump then he got mad a nd sold it to me it will try to start but will not. i cannot hear the pump prime but when turn over it will show 60 lbs of pressure after it starts to turn over. I have put on new plugs and wires and rotor button and cap they were original at 150,000 mile looked bad. he also put on a new tps, ect and ignition mod.
After doing the needed tune up it did sart after priming it and ran good at idile for about 20 mins the started to stumble then died. I will try to start if primed with carb clener or starting fluid but will not stay running. I am open to any thoughts or ideas

[82Stang]

Fuel filter. Maybe you get lucky. But when you said you can't hear the fuel pump prime, that's where I'd look first.

[iceman3032003]

Thank you for your reply I failed to say it also has a new fuel filter. Today I pulled one of the new plugs out it was black with carbon so I am going to get the coil tested and the plug tested it is not oil on the plug just black carbon like it is not giving good fire. And yes I need to do some more tests on the fuel pump wiring. When I power the test terminal still no pump sound. Step by step I guess

[Rick Norwood]

A good place to start is the fuel pump ground. You should hear the pump prime if you stand by the Gas cap door while someone else turns the key. You should be able to get a fuel pump tester at Autozone. Check your fuel pump pressure.

[iceman3032003]

when I crank the engine it is showing 60lbs of pressure but only 40 when I turn the key on ok I need to check all the wires there thanks

[53bruce]

I had a simular issue with my 97 blazer. turned out to be corrosion on the O2 senser just in front of the cat. had to replace the O2 senser and the O2 wire harness to completely cure this. Suck part was that no codes were set. main symptom i had was nasty misfire at about 45 mph to about 65. engine was getting flooded out. when i looked in intake manifold, it was all black wet carbon everywhere.
a second item to watch will be the fuel pressure regulator. when they break ( and they will break) the diaphram will crack and dump gas into the vaccumn line, which again will be rich. I have seen that when this occurs, when you shut the engine off, the fuel pressure will quickly drop. and , when you smell inside the air intake, it will really have a strong gasoline smell.
on most 4 cylinder engines, the test is easy, just disconnect the vacumn line at the regulator, carefully turn on the ignition and see if gas comes out. if gas comes out the vacumn line the regualtor is bad. But on the 4.3-- 6, its insde the manifold where you cant see it. so the fuel pressure gauge is your best bet.

[rad153]

Check out this web site: ItsSounds like your regulator due to low press. after starting. i believe engine needs min. 54 lbs. press. after initial 60 lbs..
http://easyautodiagnostics.com R.A.D.

[iceman3032003]

I put a new spyder injector on it and it does run but the idle is fast almost 2000 rpm replaced the IAC and the MAS no change. My son-in law brought over his tech II and most readinges of sensors are off but the most interesting part is it shows the timing at -11. Bringing it up on 1 to tdc also the marks on the balancer and timing shows it is tdc the button looks to be 1 tooth off. I don't know the history of this engine but I cannot tell if the dist has ever been out of it. It had the original plugs wires dist cap and rotor on it which I replaced a few weeks ago.
I was reading on another post where it says to bring up to number 6 my gm shop manuel also says to be at number 1 on the compression stoke to intall new dist. Thats the first time I ever hear of using a number 6 and yes the dist has the number 6 on it like the illistration shows. But the timing mark will not match if i use number 6 it is a 97 4.3 w engine.

[82Stang]

Awhile ago I had a rising idle. After much searching and replacing the IAC, I found it to be the IAC O-ring on the interior side. The sensor looked on snug and proper, but the O-ring was corroded and altared the idle. Maybe the o-ring is corroded, worn, or got sucked in or missing, worth checking.

[iceman3032003]

thanks this thing has pissed me off so I have installed the following things new either ac delco or delphi parts from a friends dealership parts dept. New wires, plugs, rotor cap dist cap, coil and ICM, ect, tps, Mas. and also a new OEM cat.
I just re-installed the dist using the put the rotor button at the number 6 on the dist and it will not even start now also the cam sensor in the dist is new

[maxwedge]

Is the engine actually on #6 compression?

[iceman3032003]

No when number 1 is on compression that is tdc marks aligned properly i know this sounds crazy to me also but an arrow mark in the top of the dist marked 6 is where the rotor button is to be set to when installing the dist.

[maxwedge]

Something is wrong here that would be 180 out assuming 18436572 , tdc #1 compression cannot run on number 6. try setting the dist rotor to#1 when on compression. Maybe check the dist gear is not stripped also.

[iceman3032003]

the engine is a v-6 4.3 not a v-8 and yes I look at the gear and the shaft when i had the dist. out before i put it back in.

[53bruce]

in case anyone is interested, this is a real odd setup. on the distributer, there are 2 marks, a "6" and a "8" as this distrbuter appears to be used on either model. the "6" is the location where the #"1" cylinder position is when the timing is all aligned on the 4.3 6 cylinder engine, and the "8" is where the #1 cyclinder would be set for the timimg mark on a 8 cylinder engine.

once you get past that little detail, you only have to figure out which timing mark to use on the flywheel, as there are 2 on mine. ( problably for the same reason, one is for a 6 and the other is for an 8)
if your engine runs, do yourself a favor and mark the mark you need with some white paint or simular effect. you will be happy you did.