Ned's 91 GSX

What I was thinking is waiting till I get everything back together since weather it starts now or not doesn't matter because I'm not going to drive it till middle to end of feb.. If there is a problem, then it will be obvious at start up. Its still bothering me but it will all work out in the end.

AFPR, Aeromotive 515 or A1000 (1g Complete install kit)? Price difference is $25.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/home.php?cat=310

I have the 1000 I believe and its been great so I vote for that one

Whats the mechanical difference? I'm down with buying that 1000 since the difference in price is minimal but still it's nice to know the difference.

Bought the parts today online. Here's the list of goodies

Punishment Racing FMIC (short route)
AEM Uego WBO2
2G Dejon Intake with couplers (used)
2G filter and adapter
Fuel Lab AFPR (1g install kit)
Rear hatch shocks
Radiator Hoses (blue-out of black)

Also bought a Reciprocating saw so I can cut those dang holes in the front radiator supports. Couples days hope to have all this stuff.

Awesome dude post up pics of when you get everything in!

Will do man! I'm psych'd! Still need to get the 2g maf and 1g to 2g plug and play harness.

Bought online last night
2G MAF
1G-2G harness

Got 1st batch of stuff today!!
-AEM Uego
-Radiator Hoses
-Hatch supports

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00276.jpg

looks awesome man when are you putting all these parts on

Tomorrow! Hopefully the FMIC is in tomorrow, that's the one part I've been looking forward to.

Where are you getting the FMIC? Are you buying a kit or just getting the core and making your own piping?

I ran the UEGO on my SRT-4 and I liked it, its a nice product.

I bought the 1G Punishment Racing short route FMIC kit. The price is not bad at $399. The ETS kit, same piping and what not runs for I think $699. So obviously went with PR.

Hmm, not a bad buy at all.

I have been scouting prices since I parked the car back in October and that was the cheapest setup I found that had a good reputation.

Love getting new parts in the mail. Liek Christmas all over again. Can't wait to see this thing running good.

I really need new hatch shocks as well. You buying them may motivate me to get some as well.

I put one of those shocks in last night, lots of cursing happened. I tried to do it without pulling all of the interior pieces off. I managed to not break anything but I drop my socket 3 times behind the plastic panel and had to go fishing for it using a light that didn't want to stay in the place I kept putting it. Trying to do all this with the hatch lying on my back...not a happy person last night. Got the one done and looking to get pissed off again today trying to get the other one done...wish me luck!!

BTW: Cost me $33 shipped for 2 new ones off ebay and they look identical to the old ones, stickers and all. Even the way they bolt on looks identical.

Thats not a bad price I dont think. You can get them from aftermarket stores like advance, but I'm not sure on the pricing.

Got the other hatch shock in and this time I did a little less swearing! I pulled the plastic piece apart a bit so I could get this one in, but doing so I cracked the piece a bit. I managed to not drop the socket, not even once! Got it all installed and back together and you can hardly notice the crack because it's out of sight. And for the 1st time since I bought the car, the hatch is holding itself up. I'd post a pic but we all know what a hatch looks like, unless of course you guys want to see the play by play that's cool too.

Pulled the WBO2 out of the box and changed out the black face for the white face and just kind of familiarized myself with all the pieces, like how the sensor connects to the harness is pretty cool BTW. As of right now, nothing came in the mail today...pretty uneventful. Was hoping to get crackin on the FMIC today since it's my day off. There's my update.

O BTW Dave, here's a link to some 2G hatch shocks on ebay. They're kind of high priced but beauty comes at a price right? The auction sells 1 per sale but here's the link anyway

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2G-Hatch-Strut-Eclipse-Talon-DSM-Turbo-Trunk-shock-95-9_W0QQitemZ120414139975QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_C ar_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c093df647

Well I'm feeling bored and ambitious so looking to get started on the WBO2. I want to use the guage as well as connect it to Link. I understand that I need to wire up to pin 15 but what do I do when it comes to connecting the wires physically? Do I use these
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00280.jpg

and just simply tap in?

Almost installed here's it mounted and mostly wired.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00281.jpg

Dont just tap into the wire, you want to cut it and then solder the WB to the ECU. I think we have looked into this before and pin 15 doesn't do anything stock but you should still cut it just to keep interference down etc.

Reading around on other forums and they're saying that a buffer is needed. The wiring looks stupid confusing, not sure if it's necessary but if I don't do it then I run the risk of the WB not reading lower than 11.5:1. What do you think I should do?
http://www.ecmtuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=39

Couple things came in yesterday but no FMIC, AFPR, or 2g intake yet


2g MAF, adapter, filter, and harness (harness came in the other day but o well)
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00287.jpg

Wheres the FMIC pic?? Parts look good ned.

If I were you I would just directly hook up the WB to the ECU first and test out its operation. You aren't driving the car right now so pull the WB sensor out the exhaust and hold a lighter to the tip of the sensor. Dont light it just let the gas hit the sensor and it will bottom out the wb. If it doesn't read past 11.5 then just build that circuit. Its a super easy circuit man. Probably cost 5$ in parts.

Sweet setup dude. Is the 2g MAF a big improvement on a 1g?

Here's a couple pics for the hungry folk, didn't know it came with a knock of bov either...anyone need a bov?

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00289.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00290.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00291.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00292.jpg

Starting to reconsider the 2g MAF setup, just doesn't fit right/at all. I have everything I need but can't get it to fit. Lando, any suggestions? Probably with a much shorter filter or a thinner adapter with a shorter filter. Any suggestions? I'm talking like I need at least 2 inches to fit.

Another pic
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00295.jpg

Looking good ned. I still run a knock off bov actually. I have a 1g to but I did a test on both and the knock off held 30psi and the 1g leaked at 15-20psi. May have just got a bad one but it leaked so i didn't use it. Also had to change the diaphram in the knock off.

I have a legit Greddy type RS that I'm going to use so I have no need for the bov. So if anyone wants it, I will sell it pretty cheap. Going to do some more work tonight, need to get a couple bolts and I had to order a coupler to hook up to the tb elbow better, too short by like 2 inches. Had to buy 2 feet at a time cost me 50 shipped, bit steep but I will have plenty extra.

What flange does the BOV have? When driving this weekend I just thought about changing out my 1G for a better sounding one.

Sorry I never responded, didn't notice you posted.

It's a Greddy flange, not looking to make a fortune man. Make me an offer?

Dag ned. Car is looking sweet. That FMIC kit and piping is skeet. Im digging the blue samco hoses also.

They're actually posing as Samco...some unknown name hoses. They are pretty sexy looking. Hope to have her done tomorrow night!! The AFPR is installed, the bung is being welded into the downpipe tonight by a buddy of mine so I will have that tomorrow so it can go back in. So all that's left is the coupler that I'm waiting on, that may be in tomorrow. So if all goes according to plan, I may be able to start her tomorrow night!

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00305.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00338.jpg

Sweetness dude. Exciting stuff. Good luck with startup!

Fuel pump is the only thing I'm worried about. We will see how she does tonight.

Lookin good man. What did you figure out ab the bov flange?

I think I can make it work. I will take pics of that once the intake is in

After working on it for too many hours, It's just about done. If you noticed, this post is at 3:20ish in the a.m. and I'm just now getting done. Got the intake in and all the bov stuff done. Had to relocate the Coolant overflow container, it's now where the oil catch can is inside the passenger fender. Was hoping to start her up tonight but unfortunetly the O2 bung is in the wrong place. It's pointed directly at the oil pan where the turbo oil return is located. After much beating of the pipe to try and make it fit, I quit on that for the night. I decided to cut the line at the fitting and again about 4 inches up the line. I'm pretty sure I can make this work. So hopefully start up tomorrow. Also check out in the one pic that has all the hoses. Silvr remembers, remember when I said how I didn't think the BOV flange was going to work? Well this is the cluster f%$k I ended up with. Turned out pretty decent. Also boost leak tested everything up to 20 psi and not a hiss.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00342.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00343.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00346.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00345.jpg

Looks awesome man. So are you just not going to run the 2g maf now?

The original setup wasn't going to fit in the 1G intake location because the filter I bought was too long. The whole setup was about 2" too long(6.5" filter). But tonight I stopped by the local Autozone and they just happen to have a filter that's about 4.5" long which in theory will now fit. I just have to figure out a recirc hose.

She started!!!

I have erratic idle and I need to get a couple vacuum clamps cause the one popped off the wastegate and I was hitting boost that I would never dare to hit on my setup... Is there anything in link that I need to change to compensate for all I've done? I tried to set the afpr but it was difficult to do cause one second idle would be around 1400 then fly up to 3000 then down to some where in the middle so I'm not sure what I need to do here but I work tomorrow and I have off sunday to mess with it.

Sweet deal on starting!

At first she didn't want to. She turned over for about 30 seconds with out even attempting to start. I thought for sure the fuel pump was no good. I got out and looked at the fpr and it was reading ~20 psi. That meant that fuel was coming in so I verified it by just cracking loose fitting on the end of the fuel rail and bam there's fuel! so pump was good, just turned the fuel pressure up a turn and tried starting it again and bam she started right up. Again, I have some crazy idle. Its all over the place. I need to do some tuning. Do I need to use tephlon tape on the threads of the afpr?

Read the VFAQ and Link forums on idle surge. BLT the car, adjust the BISS, etc.

Read the VFAQ and Link forums on idle surge. BLT the car, adjust the BISS, etc.

That's all I've been doing is reading. And I did adjust the BISS and my idle has dropped to about 2000 so maybe a sticky throttle plate. I'm off tomorrow and there's a lot to do with adjusting in link. I'm getting a lot of fluctuation on the wb. I turned the fpr up to 40psi even though stock is 37psi. She still wants to stall out after running for about 30 seconds. Is there anything I need to do with link because of the fmic?

No changes for an FMIC, but I would BLT the car. Chekc what your TPS is reading in Link with your foot off the gas.

It reads 0% but I did the TPSadj feature so if the plate is sticking, it wouldn't know it. I did a BLT and not one hiss to 20psi. Last night when I drove here to adjust the MAFadj, she idled a little better. Started and went up to 2000rpms then started to drop from there but after 30 seconds it wanted to stall. Left the driveway and drove approx. 2 miles and turned around. While turning around the idle was at about 1000rpms and doing well. Drove home and parked her.

Also how do I turn the boost down as low as possible so I can started tuning there?

Running a lot better, seems like on really cold days is when she wants to stall out after 30 seconds. But once she's warmed up she's fine. I think that might be coolant sensor related? Gotta work out some more kinks. I need help tuning so I posted on ECMforums for help.

Tuning setup for 4/13/10 at STM tuning in Rochester.

nice, how must boost are they going to tune it on?

We never discussed it when I called. I want to be safely tuned to a max boost of 16-17psi, whatever is safe for the engines internals.

Thats nothing, you got ARP headstuds in yet? If not I wouldn't go above 21-22psi. Some people say it fine to but others say the head lifts above that with a 16g. If your getting it tuned you should go ahead a run it a little harder.

I always thought that 18-19psi was the max?

nah I would turn it up to at least 20. If you throw in some headstuds real quick you can max those injectors or turbo out

If my motor is safe with 20 then I'm down with that.

Little update: got rid of my knock by doing new plugs (NGK BPR7ES), can of sea foam in the tank, and a BLT. Had several leaks that included 4 couplers, bov flange, and jpipe at the turbo. Did all that and now I get no knock. Remember the used 255 fp I put in, well that died last night. Ordered another pump, hope it comes in tuesday. Also got a new Hallman RX Pro black MBC, not installed yet but soon.

Glad to see you got it all fixed up Ned. Its gonna be a beast when it gets tuned