Ned's 91 GSX

I don't know what I'm going to do yet but from what I've read is that you don't want to just tap in because it could cause interference in the signal. I'm going to read a lot more before it goes down but it doesn't hurt to prepare. Thanks dave

I guess my biggest concern was at what point in the factory wiring should I tap in? Sorry for double posting but my phone won't let me edit or qoute posts.

Do not tap into the wire, what does pin 15 do? Is it the factory O2 signal that your replacing?

On ecm wiki it says to use pin 15 and on vfaq it says that pin 15 is the EGR Temp sensor. I'll just connect to this one when I do the install.

Do you have an EGR temp sensor on the car? But yea dont just tap into the wire or you may get some interference with your readings and it could even damage the ECU or the WB controller.

Back to your catchcan, do you think its coming out the intake side because of the oil sloshing around in there? Does leak oil right after you empty it? I had some issues with this when I had mine and I put some steel wool in there to help keep the oil from sloshing around to much. I dont recall whether it did actually fix the problem. Im sure it cant hurt tho.

From what I see on vfaq, the EGR temp sensor was used on CA cars only, but I have no fact to say that's true.

About the catch can, I never saw oil run out of the can and I couldn't hear oil inside the can but it's obvious that oil was once in it. Well when I checked the intake I could see where the oil had been running through it, so I just followed where it came from and the vacuum line went to the catch can. It was sucking enough oil to cause smoke out the exhaust, so who knows how much made it past the catch can. I'm going to buy a catch can in the next couple weeks and give it another shot. I will put something in the bottom of the can to stop oil from splashing around in the can.

Also a couple more questions. I need to relocate the oil cooler (right box in pic) because where the hot side of the FMIC will run, there's not enough room for the cooler. I'm going to move it to about where the SMIC was at. My question is besides running new oil lines to the passenger side, is it not good to run oil lines that far? I guess what I'm trying to ask is will I have oil pressure issues because of the added distance the oil needs to move? Also I now realize why I was leaking oil in the area around the oil filter and oil cooler, all the clamps were loose enough to spin!!...luckily none of them came off during hard driving!

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00070.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00071.jpg

Also note the power steering coolant lines, in the searches of read they say I need to loop the oil coolant lines because they too are in the way of the FMIC. Do I just cut the line and loop the 2 lines with a rubber hose and clamp them?

Also I'm thinking about not doing the dump tube...thoughts?

Do you have an oil pressure gauge inside the car? I think it would be fine to extend the lines but it would be nice to know the oil pressure just to make sure you have plenty. When I added my entire oil cooler setup I only lost about 8-10psi of oil pressure so I think you will be fine.

Not sure on the PS lines, I have heard of people just looping them but never have dont it myself so Im not real sure on that. Also that dump is pretty close to your oil lines. You should just put a small extension on that pipe. That way you dont have to buy another one

If you saw the papertowel roll guy on the valve cover, I was using that to sketch out the extension but when I was doing it I too noticed that it was way too close to the oil lines. I don't know if I really want to put the dump tube on. I was thinking about running the dump to the lower left side of the down pipe that way it stays clear of the oil lines but if I do that then it puts it more directing towards the oil pan where the oil return from the turbo is at. IDK what I want to do. Is it worth doing the dump tube or not? I want a clean install look but this thing looks hideous. IDK, thinking out loud I guess and I don't have an oil pressure gauge other than the stock one which is pretty hard to figure out if a difference occurs in pressure. I figure that with the move I'll add like 6 or 7 feet to the cooler lines. I might be able to install the cooler in between the FMIC and the radiator but I don't know if it will get enough flow in there. I don't want to screw myself is what I'm basically trying to say.

I've been rocking the glowshift gauges here's a oil pressure gauge and sending unit from them that I may buy, thoughts?
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/white-7-color-105PSI-oil-pressure-gauge.aspx

Would anyone be so kind to take a picture of the WBO2 sensor location on your cars? Just trying to get an idea at what I'm going to be doing with it when the time comes.

I have heard of people just looping them

From what I've read, the cooler just needs to be pulled so I see a spot where I can just unclamp the lines from the cooler and put in a small piece of line in it's place to loop it. Will take pics of before and after tonight when I plan to do it.

Just got done doing the loopy loop with the PS line, also pulled out the hood release support as directed. I used a piece of the PS cooler as the piece to loop the lines. I also zip-tied the line to another line so it doesn't move around. Couple pics for your enjoyment.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00073.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00075.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00077.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00081.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00082.jpg

Looks good man, so why did you want to remove the PS?

The short route for the FMIC runs through the hole that the PS cooler uses. Most of people that do the Short route do this since it has little to no effect on PS temps, it would really effect it if I did AutoX but that's not going to happen. Everyday use with that modification isn't a bad thing. I think I might put the radiator back in just because now I have the surrounding area clear, I'd like to put it back in so I can get started on running the oil cooler lines.

Thats cool that you got rid of the cooler line. I cant tell what exactly is going on in the picture of how you looped the lines though.

In this picture you can see the 2 lines marked with white spots and also you can see where I removed the clamps from the lines that connected to the cooler.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00075rgr.jpg

I used this small piece of the cooler to connect the two ends
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00077.jpg

and here it is looped with the cooler removed
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00081.jpg

Nice work there. Make sure those zip ties are going to be strong enough to hold it together.

I agree with Silver, just add an extension on the WG dump tube. Goto NAPA or something, and pick up some flexible exhaust tubing. Will clamp right on and then you can dump it where ever then.

For the WB, here's where mine is. You can see my narrow and WB both installed facing toward the block. This is from the passengerside. Granted, you have a different motor and setup, but it works the same. I believe you want it no more than 24" away from the turbo, but no less than 6" IIRC. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g291/david-b/Motor%20Build/1030092126Medium.jpg

I'm kind of worried about the zip-tie breaking and the line getting to close to the PS pump. I'm thinking about changing it so the line is a little straighter so it is further away from the pump. also need a better clamp on one end cause all I had was one of those sqweeze clamps.

Thanks for the pic of the sensor, also read that within in 3' is where it needs to be placed. I don't want it to get hit by anything I may drive over.

I'm kind of worried about the zip-tie breaking and the line getting to close to the PS pump. I'm thinking about changing it so the line is a little straighter so it is further away from the pump. also need a better clamp on one end cause all I had was one of those sqweeze clamps.

Thanks for the pic of the sensor, also read that within in 3' is where it needs to be placed. I don't want it to get hit by anything I may drive over.

But don't place it too close to the turbo. WBs are a little more sensitive than the narrowbands, and will shorten the life of it if right off the turbo.

Not sure how the 1G PS lines are, but can't you just run 1 new hose in place of the 2? So where ever it connects to, disconnect them both and run a new single hose? And then if you're like me us SS line :D Seems like that would be the best because then you have less openings on the lines and less likely for something to happen. Granted they're not high pressure, but just be better for a piece of mind.

I agree with you on the piece of mind. When I get home I'm going to see about doing just that. The way the lines are if I want to use one line then to connect the two points I will need to still 180 the line so it can connect.

Trying to find some new lines for the oil cooler but is it possible for me to just relocate the cooler to the spot between the radiator and the FMIC?

Trying to find some new lines for the oil cooler but is it possible for me to just relocate the cooler to the spot between the radiator and the FMIC?

Yea that should be fine.

I left my WBo2 in the rear o2 spot. It will react a little slower at idle but other than that there is no difference. To close to the turbo and yes it could burn up the sensor, however I cant remember exactly what that distence is.

I'll already have the FMIC blocking the radiator, will the oil cooler be too much blocking? Should I put the cooler higher up on the radiator or down lower towards the bottom? Also read that the oil should be feed through the cooler through the bottom and it should come out the top when mounted horizontally, is that true?

The WB should be further than 3' from the turbo is what I read.

You can run the WB02 in the front location and NarrowbadSim it with Link. This is what I plan to do before too long, and just plug the weld-in bung in the exhaust. It is recommended to use the copper "heat shield", however to preserve the sensor's life.

I think there is a how-to in the ECMLink Wiki on this.

Lando, thoughts on cooler?

My cooler is in front of the rad, but behind the FMIC. I do have cooling issues. Nothing extreme..but a hard 30min drive with a lot of boost will get me near 220*. I plan to put some sort of ducting under the rad and close the gap between the FMIC and the rad.

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/1872/img4825medium.jpg

I'll do that then. If I just move it to there then I shouldn't have to get longer lines. I want to do some kind of ducting too.

I'm having trouble getting past how cluttered my engine bay used to be!

Do they make any kind of shields or are you going to use some kind of sheet metal setup? Is there one that could go on top of the fmic?

There's no premade solution as I imagine the core thickness, rad thickness, etc could/would vary from car to car. Many use sheet metal for the "scoop" up to the rad, and I've seen everything from foam (pipe wrap stuff from HD)to sheet metal for the sides and top.

I'm going to try and figure something up that would go below and act as a scoop. Maybe something that would connect to the bottom of the radiator and point down a bit. I'll mess with it later.

Got some stuff done tonight, got the PS lines a little nicer. Added a horse shoe into the line so it stays put and is a less likely to come apart. Reinstalled the radiator so I could see what space I was dealing with. I need to get those plastic stick things that hold the cooler/fan to the radiator. I'm going to use 3M tape between the cooler and radiator to protect the surfaces. I'm going to try Worth W tomorrow and Autozone, maybe even NAPA and see if they have those stick things. Unless you guys know of a place that HAS them then that will save me some stops. Also unmounted the oil cooler and tightened the other loose lines to the filter relocation kit and ran the cooler lines up to the front of the radiator (as you can see in one of the pic). Well that's what happened tonight anyway.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00085.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00086.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00087.jpg

May as well get the sawzall out if you're going FMIC. That hole will need a good digging out.

Keep it up!

I want to cut the hole now but I want it to be in the perfect spot and I don't know where that it is. Maybe with some searching I will find something.

Got the cooler holder zipties from NAPA, guys at Autozone had no idea what I was looking for?!?! Well got that installed in place now, tell me what you think.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00088.jpg

Looks great dude.

Makin me blush... Jk
Next thing to get is some good radiator hoses. Don't want to spend a fortune but lookin for something good/attractive looking. I want them to be black but with the brand in white lettering on it. But look sporty of course. Any suggestions?

Samco sport makes nice colored silicone hoses. Thats the direction I would go. But then of course if you wanted to you could buy some knockoff's. I think OBX makes some Samco look-a-likes.

Yea that looks awesome dude

Is there a bit I can get for my dremel that will make the cuts I need to do?

Lando, this is more directed towards you. A few days ago we were talking about radiator shrouds and here's one I found on ebay, its for a performance radiator but i'm sure one can be fabricated for a stock radiator with fans.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mishimoto-Radiator-Fan-Shroud-1g-dsm-90-94-eclipse_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27add8cc7bQQite mZ170420391035QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5f Accessories

So thinking about what color to paint the car whenever it is that I do it. Any ideas?

So far possible color schemes
White/Black w/ black rims
Dark Gunmetal/Black w/ Gunmetal rims
Burnt Orange/Black hood, top, and spoiler w/ black rims

I don't think my car has the right lines for burnt orange and not sure if white is the color I really want to go with. any thoughts/suggestions?

Well.....burnt orange...got played out pretty quick in my opinion. Plus its more of a lowrider color than a DSM.

Also....white looks good on anything....just keep that in mind.

I like the color the car is now. Kittay's car looks great in that color.
If you want to make it stand outa little, you may can get the guy that mixes your paint to modify the stock color some. Add some metal flake, etc, etc (I can paint but I know nothing about mixing/modifying paint, or making it look fancy).

So here's the catch can installed, used the factory upper intercooler pipe hole to run the lines.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/IMG00145.jpg

Looks good. :thumbsup:

Sweer dealio.

It's a clean install, will also be really easy to drain. Might make a small shield for the left side of it because debris may blow through the side mount cooler shield and hit the level indicator on the catch can. When I get the FMIC and FPR, I'm taking a couple days vaca off work so I can do the install and do whatever adjustments in link that needs to be done.

Got kind of an important question. I found out why my turbo timer stopped working, the wire was pinched between the ecu and mounting bracket. So it was cut damn near all the way through. My concern is with the wires being as fine as they are, is it ok to just reconnect them? I tried soldering them but I guess I'm really bad at soldering and I was having difficulty getting the solder to stick to the wire. So I just got a little bit of solder on them then I used shrink wrap and then taped them all together. There's this tin foil like material that surrounds the wire that I just kind of rewrapped the foil and called her good. Would everyone agree that this is safe or is there something else I should do?

It should be fine as long as the wires have a good connection. Does the TT work now?

I don't have the battery hooked up right now but I plan to hook it up to make sure the fuel pump works so I can test that too.

Edit: hooked up the battery, turbo timer works but the fuel pump doesn't come on. I tested the wires and the wire I cut and tapped into are showing no current using the multimeter. I lost the cover to the fuse box cover so I can't see which fuse controls the pump. Or how it could have blown I have no idea. Confused here, any suggestions.

Recharged the battery cause it was only showing 8.5v so charged it up and retested wires. Again...no voltage through that wire. I even tried further up the wire and again nothing. Can't find where the problem is. I even reconnected the 2 back together and still nothing. I don't see what the problem could be.

If I connect the 12V lead wire to the black and white wire, that will at least test the pump but won't solve the problem. My question there is, will this harm the pump if I do that just to test it?

Is there a fuse or relay that I should check? I did the vacuum removal so does that pump work on vacuum in anyway that may have been effected? I left only the lines that the vfaq said to leave. This is a stupid problem but a serious one at that.

It wont hurt the pump to connect it directly to the battery. You only want the pump to run when the motor is running tho. You could run a power wire to the pump and put a relay in there. Just like you are rewiring it if you cant figure it out. It is probably a fuse.

What could have caused the fuse to blow? I know that's a stupid question but I didn't short anything out to my knowledge to have blown anything. Isn't the pump suppose to come on whenever you first turn on the key? I guess I can pull the fuel line off the fuel rail and see if fuel was pumped to that point. I don't know what else to do here.
I guess the starting question is: Is the pump suppose to come on everytime when you first turn on the key?

I think it depends on the car. I know all 2gs prime when you turn the key but I have heard that some 1gens did not prime. There should be no reason not to have power at the pump if the fuse is not blown. Unless the ECU is killing power to it for some reason. I would check every fuse under the hood and under the dash. You need to see if it gets power when cranking tho. If it doesn't then you may want to check to see if the injectors have power or not. On the 420a ECU the power for the fuel pump, injectors, coil is all tied together so if one doesn't have power neither does anything else.

When I get out of work tonight, I will check the fuses. Hopefully it's something easy like that. I can't crank the car yet, so that will have to wait a little longer.

Isn't there a relay too for the fuel pump? Could that maybe be blown?

I couldn't find a relay that said "fuel pump" so didn't get any further there. I looked through the chiltons manual, looked through the wiring diagrams and got nowhere.

I know on 2g's the fuel pump relay is under the dash right beside the ECU, on the passenger side.

When I get home I'll have more time to mess with it.

Well none of the fuses are popped. Someone suggested that I just turn the car over a couple turns to see if the pump turns on or not. I don't have any oil or coolant in the engine so it's probably not a good idea to do this right? The radiator hoses aren't installed either. Suggestions?

It wont hurt to run the car for a short period of time with no coolant, but I wouldn't turn it over without any oil in it.

Oil is needed for sure. And since there's no oil, make sure you crank it with the coil pack unplugged a couple times to prime the motor before you actually try starting it.