Jordan 191

Jaykay, I'm a fan! This has got to be one of the most enjoyable threads I've read in a long time. Don't be a stranger with the updates. You won't bore me, I promise!

My level of astonishment rises with every post.

It is just incredible how much detail can be crammed into one build.
I too enjoy following all your steps and pick up some useful hints and tips along the way.

Pure modelling art !

I really like the technique to create the haze of epoxy impregnated cf. Clever idea.
By the way, I am still working on your 962 pdk transmission reference dilemna. It appears there is still one functioning 962 with a pdk transmission in it. It is a un-touched 962 last raced in a Japanese series (complete with dirt and damage) and was appearantly featured in "Excellence" some time back. I do understand what you mean though, pictures and details are very rare and scarce. This is all third party information from a colleague of mine whom has been racing Porsches for 20 or so years now. I will pass on anything else I can find out about it. The Porsche training manuals for current pdk cars have been very helpful, and actually have an animation of the 962 pdk functioning with fluid passageways and location of most of the lines. However, since it is current product information, it cannot be reproduced. Even with permission. They are very tight with these things..

Well, i tried but haven't found the right semi gloss clear. Which one are you using? ...


I am quite happy with "Mr. Super Clear Semi-Gloss" click (http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=48_76&products_id=1377&osCsid=0a5b9de8e387ab425c03ad60bec7f981)

Absolutely astonishing CF work. The sheen looks unreal!! (in a good way!) :cool:
Erick --

@Raikkobin: Thanks for the effort! There's no hurry yet ...:-)



Here we go with some more bits and pieces. As I said in my last update I was fed up with sanding and polishing so I continued by working on the cockpit area. Some of the parts have been in the works or done for a while and others were now made during assembly.
The main two pieces for the footwell and seat area were CF’d and painted along with the bodywork. I scratch built the pedals even though they will hardly be visible in the end but you can see them when looking through the service hole in front of the front damper.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/117pedalsinfootwell.jpg


There’s one useful picture in the Perfect Manual taken from the driver’s seat so I tried to build what I could see and made up the rest :-) I made them from some etched and plastic bits.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/118pedalsfromseat.jpg


The next step was to do the main cockpit display. To replace the moulded in detail from the kit parts I made individual pieces from plastic for easier painting and decaling and an etched frame for the display itself.
In the picture you also see a switch box made from an etched front face and a bit of renshape that will go to the lower left of the “dashboard” and two etched panels that will go on the cockpit walls besides the driver’s shoulders.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/119scratchbuiltcockpitdisplay.jpg


The parts were again painted and CF’d. For the display itself I designed the graphics ( that are printed/stickered on the real display as well ) along with the etching graphics and printed them on transparent overhead film with an ALPS printer. I then sprayed the film from the back side with a mix of moss green and silver. After cutting this out I could place the display face inside the etched frame.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/120cockpitdisplay.jpg


I then glued these parts on the dashboard and dressed them up with some small details. I also added the steering column that I made from brass tubes. The steering wheel that I’ll show later will be removable.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/121displayinstalled.jpg


I carried on with the little box that goes to the left. It was also painted and CF’d. I then added the emergency button that I turned from aluminium and painted transparent red for the anodized look. The little switches were made from 0,3mm nickel silver wire. I tried to give them a bit of that typical conical shape but at that size it’s rather tricky. Anyway I’m happy how it turned out :-)
Finally I added some knee pads on the bulkhead, some wires and that little round thing between display and switch box that seems to be a later season addition. I have no clue what it’s for though :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/122dashboardready.jpg


This is it for the first part of the cockpit. There’s more to come from the silly little bits department in the next update. That’s the part I really enjoy during a build. Much more than painting and sanding… :-)

Nice!!! There's alot to look at there... Those toggle switches are great. I see splines on the steering column. Will the steering work???

loss for words on this great work. keep it up.

The display panel looks phenomenal :thumbsup: (as does the rest of the update)

There’s more to come from the silly little bits department in the next update. That’s the part I really enjoy during a build.
And that's the part I enjoy following the most :D

The display panel looks phenomenal :thumbsup: (as does the rest of the update)


Hi must agree, that´s absolutely great.

I have the kit, but looking at yours, mine will probably never built ;-)))

Your work is so amazing, I actually start laughing out loud in disbelief while reading your updates :)

100% joy to watch your work :thumbsup:

This project certainly is in a different realm then I'm used to. Your work on the suspension and coils are amazing, but really every aspect of this model is. Fantastic.

Superb. You was one of the very preferred modelers of mine Jay, but you're becoming one unreachable hiro! Congrats.

The look of the front wing carbon undersurfaces is..... real. Fantastic.

As ever a pleasure to learn from you.

The pedals and switches look awesome, Jaykay.

I didnt think this was a 1:1 forum, Im pretty sure this is a model forum, surely that is not possible on a 1:20 F1 car.... Or did you borrow some fancy shrinking ray thingy?
Incredible build!!!

You are a master my friend!!! This is astonishing pure talent.....

DaveT

Hi Jay. A little question about Ureol: I've found out here in Italy a supplier of Necuron, similar the Ureol. They gave me some "sample" of their products. 15 little bricks with several density: from 0,16 g/cm2 to 1,15 g/cm2. The question is: what density do you suggest for models that we do? (OK, I mean "YOU DO" :naughty:) Thanks. Max.

@jaykay640

Hey man,you are a modelbuilder hero.....:naughty::naughty:

I really like your build everything is so clean,and all this scratch build parts,amazing.:eek7::eek7:

I taught i cant learn new things anymore,but you let me feel i dont know anything.....ha ha ha:runaround::runaround:

Thanks for explain us your best skill.

One question in german cause i dont know how to ask you in english:

Wie hast Du den Kopf der Lenksäule mit diesen Rillen hingekriegt,sieht einfach Klasse aus.:loser:

Vielleicht sieht man sich mal auf einer Ausstellung.

Regards Roger

@Max

Necuron is just as fine. I have some of their sample blocks as well :-) The best density depends a bit on what you do. For machining i would go to around 0,7g/cm³ or higher. The harder/denser the material is, the nicer/crisper the edges and details you achieve. Especially on the lathe the material will be less likely to bend away from your cutting tool when you do thin stuff.
For shaping parts by hand with sandpaper or files, a lighter variant like around 0,5g/cm³ may be better because it's not so hard ( and annoying ) to work with :-) The less dense, the less smooth the surface will be though... This can be "fixed" with primer and some sanding of course.
The stuff i use mostly is around 0,7 i think and it's a good compromise.

@Roger

Thanks :-) That question also came up in my german build report so maybe you can have a look there: http://www.modellboard.net/index.php?topic=28447.165

Btw...we sort of have met at a show already :-) I was at the Frankfurt show where you showed your Cobra Daytona and 635CSI ( among other things ). Great builds!! Don't remember if that was last year or the year before :-)

@everyone else

Thanks for your comments. If all goes to plan there will be another update today :-)

O.k. guys, as promised here's more progress, more cockpit.

First of all the steering wheel. I kept the rim but replaced the centre with an etched part and some brass rivets. At the rear I also added a turned aluminium connector piece. Here are the unpainted parts, also for the steering column I showed you already last time:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/123steeringwheelandcolumnrebuilt.jpg


I then painted it Jet Black and after masking the centre followed it with a misty layer of enamel matt black on the outside for the rough leather look.
For details I made the switches from etched washers and 0,3mm wire again. The logo decal is from the Tamiya kit.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/124steeringwheelfront.jpg


Finally I added wires at the back and a “plug” to connect it to the dashboard ( which is probably a bit oversized now that I look at it, but it works :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/125steeringwheelrear.jpg


And just to “prove”…the steering wheel mounted to the dash :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/126steeringwheelconnectedfront.jpg


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/127steeringwheelconnectedside.jpg


The next step were the seat belts. I started with ( now OOP ) F1Specialties belts which are a perfect match in terms of the hardware. The blue belt material that comes in the set however was way too dark. I ended up using some ribbon I got at the local “girls” hobby store that had the perfect colour and an acceptable texture. I bought a 3mm and a wide version. When comparing it with a Hiro set from one of my kits I realized that they supply exactly the same ribbon material.
I decided though to not use the ( correctly sized ) 3mm ribbon because at the sides it has these “lines” that don’t look right for a seatbelt. Instead I cut 3mm wide strips from the wider ribbon. These needed “fixing” of the material at the cut edges though or they’d fall apart. After some experimentation I found a way to “seal” them using a lighter flame. With the ribbon strips prepared like that I built the belts up which took ages because I had to be very careful and could only use epoxy glue which needed “drying” time at every single step.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/128seatbelts.jpg


The F1Specialties kit came with some decals for the stitching of the belts which promised to be a nice touch. However it turned out soon that these decals didn’t react to any setting solution ( including the evil red Tameo stuff ). Ultimately I melted the carrier film away with chloroform! For my next project I’ll make some myself…
For the Willans decals I couldn’t go “chemical” so I fixed them with superglue ( they are nicely printed though…better than others I had ). To blend the damn decals in I sprayed the white stitching with some transparent blue and the whole belts ( not the buckles :-) with a bit of matt clear.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/129seatwithbeltsfront.jpg


The result looks o.k. but not as clean as I’d have wished. The ribbon material works but I’ll keep my eyes open for something better.
Up next I installed the belts to the seat. The seat was painted with a rough layer of matt black like the steering wheel prior to that. Seat and belts were then inserted to the rear half of the cockpit tub that has been CF’d and painted again and equipped with the little etched panels that you saw in the last update. On the left one I added a wire and plug for the driver’s radio connection.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/130seatwithbeltsside.jpg


The last missing part for the cockpit is a funny one. The gear stick looks like the Jordan design department had some fun one day and drew up something odd to see if the workshop would actually try to build it…. and when they came back the next day they had! ( …or alternatively it just got crushed by a truck and they didn’t have money for a replacement :-)
That odd one-piece slotted and bent stick needed to be done better than the Tamiya kit blob!


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/131gearshift.jpg


I used a 0,6mm nickel silver rod and sanded it to a half round section. Then I soldered two half round bits together at the ends chucked the part in my motor tool and sanded it back to a full round section. That done I could bend it open to look like the real one. The grip and the conical tip of the linkage are turned aluminium and the rest of the parts were made from metal tubes, etched bits and plastic. Here it is installed after painting:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/132gearshiftinstalled.jpg


Next up you see the headrest. I had to shorten it a bit at the bottom because it was covering up the driver’s name. It’s also painted matt black.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/133headrest.jpg


As you can see, the roll over hoop is already in its place too and I started to do the fuel tank details. From the inside I mounted the etched plate I showed earlier and the fuel filler itself. Both were painted with Jet Black and Gloss Black respectively.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/134fuelfillerinstalled.jpg


Around the hole in the monocoque I mounted 0,6mm allen screws by T2M ( also painted black ) over etched brass washers. The screws are a gimmick but to be honest the hexagon holes are hardly visible ( even unpainted ). The fuel filler itself also got a bit of brass “glitter”.
There are a bunch of hoses and wires to come still. I started with two connectors made from aluminium on the lathe lathe and mill. Those take time :-)



That’s it again for now. Thanks for looking and for your comments once more!

stop posting pictures of real cars :lol:

incredible work Jaykay, I wish I had 1/100 of your talents

Can this build get any better?! Just fantastic all around and such a joy to read/see updates.

Very inspiring...

Jaykay you have an astounding eye for detail, an imagination that goes outside the box for for finding solutions and incredible skills to execute them so perfectly.

Rock on! :)

I don't believe it, even Eddie Jordan should see this!!

great update, the cockpit looks awesome!

I don't believe it, even Eddie Jordan should see this!!

Well there are quite a few BBC F1 people on Twitter, somebody just tweet the link :smooch:

Perfect model!! Can't wait to see the the engine installed. You are giving alot of people a higher level to shoot for. Just curious, who is your favourite modeler?? Mine in Patrice de Conto. Your model is just as good, only much much smaller. Bravo! I hope you do a full scratchbuild next.


Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo 2010 model/photo contest-Chicago April 24th

This is unreal!!!!! I got so excited while going through the build reports! Keep it up, you are the chosen one! :)

:eek2::eek2::eek2:
Incredible job, Jaykay640!
Really beautiful work.

Thanks everyone :-)

Perfect model!! Can't wait to the the engine installed. You are giving alot of people a higher level to shoot for. Just curious, who is your favorite modeler?? Mine in Patrice de Conto. Your model is just as good, only much much smaller. Bravo! I hope you do a full scratchbuild next.

Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo 2010 model/photo contest-Chicago April 24th

I don't have just one favourite modeler, and I'm sure there are many great ones i don't even know! I've seen only a couple of pictures from de Conto Ferrari models in a car mag. They were very well done but what stuck in my mind were some odd proportions.
Obviously Wingrove is one modeler everyone would name and i love the 1:43rd stuff Akihiro Kamimura, Hideki Suzuki and Steve Barnett do. There's something to aim for! I guess i could name more... This forum alone has many great builders!
As for the scratchbuild....i don't see that coming for a while. In the smaller scales there's something available to start from for most cars, so i don't really see the point. The one thing I'd love to have/do that's missing is a Bugatti T59. If no one does a good kit of that i'll have to scratch it one day :-)


This is unreal!!!!! I am so excited while going through the build reports! Keep it up, you are the chosen one! :)

It's funny you should say that Steve. After all you ( or your website ) are responsible in no small part for me doing this :-) I've been building models since i was a kid but not F1. After college in 2001, when i had time again, i got the then new Tamiya F1-2000 kit and started to build it, thinking i was doing quite well. Then i thought about adding some details and find some pictures online...and stumbled upon your site. I was in for a shock! My attempt was rubbish by comparison ( especially the painting...) and that semi finished model is still in its box somewhere but it gave me something to aim for and motivated me to get better...

Incredible work.
It's beautiful to watch.

His later models are even better, but I also noticed some minor problems on his smaller scale models. Here is his Ferrari 315S 1957. It is almost perfect, but very large in 1/8th scale. Looks real in the photos. Patrice is I think the best large scale builder still alive.
I see several builders on this forum heading in the same direction as Patrice. Some amazing stuff on this site.

http://minidelta.be/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=93:315-s-pictures&catid=44:the-mille-miglia-315s-the-sebring-315s&Itemid=98


Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo 2010 model/photo contest-Chicago April 24th 2010

I have to correct myself. The models i was referring to were by one Michele Conti.
That 315S is an absolute beauty! :-)

i have no words for your work, wow is just sounds too normal as your work is truly amazing, pushing limit to the max :bigthumb:

did you use any magnifying glass for those really tiny stuff? :icon16:

Thank you jay for tips about the Necuron. I stay tuned on this 3D.

Huge props for your skill and commitment to perfection, it's really something to behold. I do agree that the belt material, although very good, is not as perfect as the rest of this masterpiece. The texture is nice, but it looks like you need a slightly finer material. Anyway, not to worry, it's still great, and that gear shift is outrageous, and I love the work you did on the wheel - the center plate and the perfect texture you achieved for the rim. One other comment if I may, the paint looks very shiny and glassy, though that's an extreme closeup of course, I'm sure you'll get a killer finish for the final job. Brilliant work bro', just fantastic.

Hi

After a somewhat longer break here’s another update. The reason for this was the suspension I started to install. Despite all my efforts I got fitment and alignment troubles. It’s really amazing and frustrating at the same time how much some paint and glue can mess up parts fit. I have to learn to build with bigger tolerances it seems.
I got so annoyed and angry about all my efforts to do the build as clean as I can go down the crapper that I decided to put the model away for a bit and do other things, or other it might have come to an untimely end :-)
Anyway, I finally got back to it and managed to fix the issues mostly so here we go. For a change after all the cockpit and monocoque stuff I started on the rear suspension.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/135rearsuspensionpickuppointsinstal.jpg


I started by installing the yellowish/orange looking parts. These were all painted Alclad transparent yellow over a Zero silver base and finished off with a thin layer of matt enamel clear for the anodized look. The little arms of the anti roll bar were connected to the bell cranks with thin painted tubes and rod end details. The arms should be vertical as per the real ones, but in that position they would have collided with the cowling…

Next I installed the rear damper reservoirs and connected them to the dampers with ProTech braided line ( very nice stuff ) and R.B.Motion A/N-Fittings.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/136reardamperreservoirsinstalled.jpg


Then I could start with the lower suspension arms and pushrods. The Jordan 191 usually gets the credit of being the first F1 car to use CF pushrods. However, when I wanted to put CF decals on the pushrods and started checking reference pictures for the pattern orientation I was surprised to not find any picture of the rear pushrods in CF. It turns out it wasn’t used on the rear ones as the resins of the time couldn’t stand the heat from the exhaust. That sent me into more checking. I only found one useful picture of the front pushrods at Spa in the F1Modeling Schumacher Special but it shows that he didn’t have CF ones! I guess ol’ Eddie Jordan was afraid that stupid pay driver kid might break his costly pushrods and left them off :-)
Anyway, as a result I left the CF decals off and painted all the suspension arms with a mix of Jet Black and some Alclad steel for a hint of metallic sparkle, followed by some matt clear to take off the shine. Below these layers I first put on some paint dots to replicate what I guess are spot welding points. These are visible in all the pictures.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/137lowerrearsuspensioninstalled.jpg


Then I installed the uprights with the brakeducts already glued on, followed by the driveshafts and upper suspension arms. It was quite tricky because there were a lot of ends coming together at the same time and at this point the fitment issues really started…
Anyway, for the record, the uprights are painted in a mix of matt enamel black and aluminium because enamel paint can give a rougher ( cast metal ) look than Zero when airbrushed at high pressure. The brakeducts received the same CF treatment that I previously described and were sanded and lightly polished ( and yes, it took ages to do them but I’m pretty proud about how they turned out :-) The driveshafts are painted Alclad Magnesium over a black base.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/138upperrearsuspensionanduprightsin.jpg


Here’s a view of all parts assembled from the top rear. You can see that despite my efforts around the rear wing support things are not perfectly aligned but once the rear wing is in place this will be less visible :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/139rearsuspensioninstalledtopview.jpg


Another view of one of the brake ducts. The CF pattern orientation is true to the real one :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/140rearuprightsandbrakeductsfinishe.jpg


And finally a view from the rear.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/141rearsuspensioninstalledrearview.jpg


Now I have to get to the front suspension…there are more issues to fix! CU again for that :-)

A work of art!

Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo 2010 model/photo contest-Chicago April 24th 2010

This is heavenly! :)

And that C/F brake ducts are so gorgeous to look at, you are killing me with this!

I can't wait to see more!

What to say......? :) :thumbsup:

Really, really nice job!

Jamme

This is a perfect example of what most everyone strives to achieve with their builds... super clean, super detailed, super accurate work! Outstanding build!

Garey

:eek2:



Unbelievably fine work.

Where will this model be displayed? It deserves a museum all its own.

D D M S

This is beautiful! If I didn't read the previous pages, I would have thought this is a 1/12 scale! :biggrin:

This is beautiful! If I didn't read the previous pages, I would have thought this is a 1/12 scale! :biggrin:

Same for me !!! Unbelievable work of art, Jaykay is for sure one of the world top ten modeler ! :eek:

Amazing detail, excellant committment to airbrush tiny parts multible times to get the right look, do you use a paint brush at all?

Same for me !!! Unbelievable work of art, Jaykay is for sure one of the world top ten modeler ! :eek:

Thanks for the praise...but no. That's most definitely a wild exageration :-)

Amazing detail, excellant committment to airbrush tiny parts multible times to get the right look, do you use a paint brush at all?

Mostly just for touch up and the occasional detail. Just had to do a lot more of paint brushing than i'd like to fix the damage on the suspension parts. It's not that i really like the hassle of airbrushing ( by now i could probably clean the damn thing with my eyes blindfolded :-) but the result speaks for itself. With the airbrush you can achieve thinner paint layers and preserve details you would loose with a brush and some paints such as Alclads and Zero are not really good with a brush anyway.

Everyone else also thanks for your comments. I hope i can post some progress on the front suspension the coming weekend.

Hi everyone

Here’s some more progress, this time starting with the front suspension. I connected the uprights with the upper and lower A-arms and then mounted them to the chassis.
Trouble started when I wanted to install the pushrods. Again it seems the paint and glue compromised parts fit in several places and things got a bit nasty and annoying. Ultimately I came out the winner of the battle though with the damage to the paint mostly fixed and in less visible places :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/142frontsuspensioninstalledleftside.jpg


The front damper received some additional bits for detailing and to hold it in place. It’s a bit tight around it and I doubt in reality it would have much of a chance to move, but it looks like serious business :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/143frontsuspensioninstalledtopview.jpg


Then I mounted the steering elements, while the suspension parts were still held by the jig and the uprights in the correct angle. Afterwards I installed the stub axles and now the jig has done it’s job and doesn’t “work” anymore.
You can also see the little turned aluminium pins above the steering which will hold the nosecone. I didn’t just use wire because over time that might work loose and get pushed backwards. These pins have a slightly wider ring machined in where they enter the monocoque so this won’t happen.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/144frontsuspensioninstalledrightsid.jpg


Next up I glued the front brake ducts in place using epoxy glue. They were also CF’d painted and slightly polished.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/145frontbrakeductinstalled.jpg


Another shot seen from the “inside”:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/146frontbrakeductinside.jpg


As you can see in the next picture the steering still moves. There is quite a bit more play in the steering than I had hoped for, but I can’t really do much about it now. For a static model it’s o.k. but the straight line driving would be rather abbysmal :-) Now that I’ve done it I’ve come up with a an idea how to improve that, but I’ll have to keep it for another build …


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/147steeringstillmovable.jpg


At this point it was time for the brakes. The discs were painted with a brownish matt paint mix at the edges. The sides were first painted with Alclad Steel and some Jet Black mixed in to darken it. Then I “dusted” over some Zero silver to get more of a glittering effect.
It’s not exactly like the real carbon brake disks but looks convincing :-) Next time I may try another approach using custom made CF decals…
The paint was followed by a good layer of 2K-clear and then sanded and slightly polished. This gives some extra depth to the look.
The orange disc parts received the same paint treatment as the suspension brackets on the gear box and were detailed with locator pins for the wheels made from 0,5mm nickel silver rods around the centre and 0,5mm nuts w/bolt stems from Scalehardware around the outside. On the back I added etched hex bolts.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/148brakedetails.jpg


The brake callipers are painted Alclad Pale Gold. They didn’t come out as crisp as I had wished but I added some extra details do distract from that on top of the individual brake pads :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/149frontbrakesideview.jpg


The wheel hubs and brake discs still move as planned though. I still have to add brake lines.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/150frontbrakerearview.jpg


So here’s a front overview with all the new parts visible:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/151frontbrakesinstalledfrontview.jpg


And finally a shot together with the rear part of the car. I also installed the brakes for the rear wheels obviously :-)

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/152allbrakesinstalled.jpg

Now I have to carry on with the undertray so I can put them together for good. More about that next time!

P.S. I have one question for you: How do the pictures look on your screens? On mine they look fine but I’m typing this sitting at my dad’s computer and the pictures look way too bright here. Question is…..which screen is not adjusted correctly? Do the pictures look too bright on your screen as well ( with the black parts looking very greyish )? Thx!

Wow, I really have no idea which part to praise the most. I love the clearcoated and polished brake discs (even if it's one of the more simple parts of the build), the rest is beyond impressive as well.

As for the pictures - they look fine to me but I'm no professional photographer or graphics designer. Besides, whether black looks grey in the photographs is really insignificant and definitely not what we're looking for and at in your posts :)

Great looking brakes and suspension. Your right about the pale gold paint. It looks like the flakes are to large for 1/20th scale.

On your camera, the lense is picking up the dust on the suspension arms it's so sharp. I guess thats good and bad. The photos look fine on my screen at home.

This built is really setting benchmarks car model builders will shoot for. To think alot of artists look down on model builders. I would like to see them do what your doing(A mix of engineering and art).

Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo 2010 model/photo contest-Chicago April 24th 2010

This has to be one of the great models. In 1/8 scale, it would be fantastic; in 1/20, it's beyond breathtaking. Hopefully, the body panels will be removable so your exquisite chassis detail can still be seen.

Your photos are very crisp and the color is excellent; the focus and exposure seem spot on. They are not too bright or too dark on my screen: the blacks look black and the greys look grey.

Absolutely, stunningly, mind-blowingly awesome and inspiring :worshippy

I'm stunned......

JayKay

Wow.

Please let us know when/where you will eventually have this model on display. Hopefully in a show or contest. I will drive a long way to see it when it's done.

Your are a really great craftsman.

Murray

The black does look a little grey on my laptop screen, but mostly light balance. The bodywork looks absolutely smashing though, really nice. The front shock assembly is amazing, considering it came from one photo. Very well done.

One thing about the calipers, the pads look as though they are half on/half off of the rotor, and the caliper seems too far off of the hub centerline. Do the calipers sink onto the upright a little bit more? And yes, the metallic flake on the calipers is too heavy. I believe the calipers are anodized billet aluminum. Also the bridge spacers across the caliper are usually stainless tubing with long bolts, or cotter pins securing it in place. It seems almost cast as part of the caliper halves. Might be worth another look.

It looks so good coming together, what a fantastic build!

Simply.....wow.

Amazing detail. I wouldn´t have the commitment to stay with such a project for such a long time. That fact deserves respect indeed.


Robert

Thanks everyone!
The pale gold is indeed a bit grainy. I almost have a feeling like the Alclad is getting "old" because the last time i used it it wasn't like that.
Raikkobin is right about the front left brake calliper sitting a bit too far back. That was the first one i mounted. The others are a bit closer/tighter but not as tight as on a real brake...tolerances. Trying to improve that one will be a bit like asking for trouble but i'll have a look into that. The bridge spacers on the Jordan brakes were not extra parts but cast in though, so that's true to the original. Nevertheless there's room for improvements :-) It seems i have a thing with brake calipers. They were the road block that put me off the MP4/4 because those are even more complicated ( and there are 8 of them... ). My next build will have Brembos...they are more simple :-)

This is getting nicer and nicer everyday! Looks like seeing the atual F1 car being made!

Here comes another update!
After getting to the point I showed you last time I finally had to get back to the undertray. This needed some attention before I could put it together with engine and monocoque. In the engine bay I installed some heat shields. The ones on the floor are etched and on the sidewalls I used some bare metal foil. These were then slightly heat stained with Alclad transparent yellow. The exhaust end pieces were made from some strong tin foil.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/153heatshieldsinstalled.jpg


The underside also got some more detailing. At the rear in the diffusor I added some heat shielding, made from CF decal and some etched surrounds for the exhaust outlets. These were also heat/dirt stained with transparent yellow and “smoke”. I only have one shot of the real car that shows a diffuser tunnel from behind. I tried to recreate what I can see there, but I had to guess mostly :-) On the rest of the car’s underside I added some scratches with a 1500 grit Micromesh pad. I don’t know how it really looks there and I didn’t wanna overdo it so that’s gonna be it :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/154undersidefinished.jpg


With the undertray ready I had to prepare the engine for installation. I made a gearshift linkage from plastic rod and bits of metal tube and sprayed it Alclad Magnesium. At that point I also realized there were some mesh hose connections missing that run from the gear box to the pumps on both sides of the engine. I made these with Sakatsu mesh hose and R.B.Motion A/N-fittings. I didn’t bother to do anything with the “pumps” because they were then covered up with some more heat shielding anyway, that protects them from the exhaust heat on the real car. I made those shields from tin foil. The texture was pressed in by rolling the grip of a fine Tamiya pin vise over the tin foil on a rubber underlay. I added etched parts at the top that “hold” the shielding curtains and some heat staining again.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/155gearlinkageandengineheatshieldsi.jpg


Then I had to get to the exhaust pipes. I was always a bit scared of messing them up because that’s the first time I had to do some proper heat staining. Over a base of gloss black enamel I first painted them Alclad Highly Polished Aluminium. I masked off the weld seams with tape strips and then started the “staining” with transparent yellow, red and blue and thinned Jet Black. From there I carried on using the Tamiya “Make-Up” sets and various pastels. To build up the powdery stuff layer by layer I put on thin coats of matt clear enamel paint in between as a fixative. It took quite some time and I probably could have reached a similar result quicker with paint but I’m quite happy about how they turned out.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/156exhaustsheatstained.jpg


So I finally glued the engine on the undertray and installed the exhaust pipes.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/157enginefixedonundertray.jpg


I’m still a bit worried that I may have forgotten something and that the engine fixed to the undertray will give me stupid problems at some point but I had to do this finally to be able to build and install more parts. I’ll see…:-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/158engineonundertraytopview.jpg


That’s it again. See you for the next update!

Hello Jaykay,
Really fantastic work, as allways!
Greetings,
Jamme