Jordan 191

Are you going to display the finished model in a garage setting, ie with all the parts off, ready to assemble for raceday?


Well, the plan is to build it well enough to display it open or with all the bodywork on ( and no massive gaps :-). There won't be any diorama. Just a stand for the cowling i think.


Thanks everyone for the comments. They’re much appreciated :-)

During the week I finally did another run of photoetching, redoing some parts that didn’t come out nice enough the first time or where I got some measurements wrong. So now I can get on with some areas that were missing these last parts.
The first area I can show you is the front wing of which I had already shown you some steps. I spent a good deal of time thinning the endplates. I sanded them to about 0,4mm wall thickness in all the areas where it shows ( which unfortunately was most :-)
Here you see a comparison of the thinned left one vs. the unchanged right endplate.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/53frontwingendplatecomparison.jpg


I then added the white bits from sheet styrene. The curvy parts ( vortex generators I guess…) at the rear end were formed with heat over a file that conveniently had the right shape.
I opened the slots for flap adjustment and reduced the size of the holes for the locator pins on the wing, as these will be replaced by more accurately sized brass pins.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/54frontwingendplatesreadyforpaint.jpg


As I mentioned at the very beginning of this WIP the front wing flaps in the kit are too big ( more downforce ) for the Spa race. So I modified the outer adjustable ones. I then etched Gurney flaps for them plus new inner flaps. The etched parts especially for the Gurneys required some tricky bending and squeezing but ultimately worked as planned :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/55frontwingflapdetails.jpg


So here’s another shot of all the pieces laid out together. They are now ready for some paint.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/56frontwingelementsoverview.jpg


That’s it already for today but there’s more to come :-)

I then added the white bits from sheet styrene. The curvy parts ( vortex generators I guess…) at the rear end were formed with heat over a file that conveniently had the right shape.
I opened the slots for flap adjustment and reduced the size of the holes for the locator pins on the wing, as these will be replaced by more accurately sized brass pins.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/54frontwingendplatesreadyforpaint.jpg



I really get a kick out of builds like this - usually read them before bedtime then lie awake thinking how I'll apply this to my build. Problem is - when I sit down at the modelling worktable the next day I look at my kit and think "How the hell did he do that on something this small?"!

I'd like to ask a couple of questions about that last item:
1. How do you get the slot in the endplate so neat (especially for a curve)? It seems pretty narrow (I'd guess about .3mm?), and I've not seen a file that size. Are you using a micro milling machine, or is that some great tip you could share?
2. The glue work seems really tidy - MEK/Tenax or what?
3. How did you shape those "lips" that look like Gurney flaps? If I had to guess I would think you'd glue .5mm sheet styrene to those edges of the endplate, carve off the excess then sand back to thin and taper the edges. Would that be right?

PLease keep the updates coming - this is better than getting magazines in the mail!

WOW Man. This is even more sublimer than the other stuff. You guys are incredible. I love it how you are the hero to our hero's...That is so cute.
Adjectives fail to describe your work other than total admiration and respect. I too am a fan of just building, so I don't care if you don't paint it. I love watching your scratchbuilding. To me that is at least 70% of the fun in modelling. I look forward to further progress on this inspirational journey.

Cheers
Nens

speechless!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1. How do you get the slot in the endplate so neat (especially for a curve)? It seems pretty narrow (I'd guess about .3mm?), and I've not seen a file that size. Are you using a micro milling machine, or is that some great tip you could share?

The slot was not as difficult as it may seem, because it's there on the Tamiya part, it just didn't go "all the way through" :-)
While i do have very thin round and square files ( square one is 0,5mm at the tip and the round one 0,3mm ) i didn't use them here. I drilled a row of 0,3mm holes ( guided by the indentation on the kit part ), removed the left over material between the holes with a sharp surgical blade and then sanded the edge smooth with 600 grit sandpaper.


2. The glue work seems really tidy - MEK/Tenax or what?


All superglue :-) I spot glue the parts in place applying the glue with a needle with a flattened tip and once the part sits right fill up the rest of the gap. Then i sand the excess super glue away with files or mostly just 360 and 600 grit sandpaper.



3. How did you shape those "lips" that look like Gurney flaps? If I had to guess I would think you'd glue .5mm sheet styrene to those edges of the endplate, carve off the excess then sand back to thin and taper the edges. Would that be right?


Pretty much yes. I used 0,3mm sheet styrene here though, so i didn't have to sand away too much :-) I use thicker material only when i need to make bigger radiuses on the edges or when material thickness isn't an issue.

Hope that answers your questions :-) New update will follow shortly.

Cheers

Jaykay

Here comes some more building progress. It is less than I thought because the rear suspension is turning out to be very tricky. Many bits to scratch build and align…:-)

I wanna start with something else though …the exhaust pipes. The kit parts are the typical Tamiya bits that benefit from further detailing. I started by cleaning the mold lines up and sanding them a bit more round where needed. Then I went a bit further and built this accordion like ( or whatever you may call it :-) section the Perfect Manual shows and that Tamiya just turned into a massive blob. I made it from 0,2mm etched washers. Not the quickest way but making it on a lathe would be rather tricky because of the very thin “fins”.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/57exhaustsstarted.jpg


On the left is one pipe already assembled, on the right you see the raw parts.

I then carried on and added etched mounting plates where the exhaust connects to the engine block. They will later hardly be visible but there are even little bolt heads facing outside ( yes, honestly :-) Then I added weld lines and some flanges with styrene and now the parts are ready for some paint.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/58exhaustsreadyforpaint.jpg


So now on to the rear suspension or actually the first part of it. That thing will keep me busy for some time to come…
In the first picture you see the lower arms. The upper left is of course the kit part ( all in one…) and to the lower right the modified part for the left side. Just like on the front I snapped of the ends and replaced them with scratch built rod ends plus hex screws made from brass tubes. I also added etched mounting points for the push rod and toe link and another one of those brackets made from black plexiglass.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/59lowerrearsuspensionarmskitandmodi.jpg


It took quite a while to tweak the kit part until it properly mated with the gearbox and my new upright. Once that was done making the pushrod and toe link wasn’t so difficult though :-)
The kit pushrod had to be shortened a bit for the rod ends. The toe link is made from 1mm brass tube.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/60modifiedpushrodandscratchedtoelin.jpg


At the top of the gear box the pushrod is connected to what I call “damper pivots”. Dunno if that’s correct!? Well… they are the pieces that connect the pushrods with the dampers :-)
Since the Tamiya parts are inevitably a bit blobby I made new ones from turned aluminium and etched bits ( superglued ).


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/61reardamperdamperpivots.jpg


To connect the modified suspension parts to the gear box it also needed modifying. I added etched plates for the forward mounting points and a bracket made from an etched piece and some sheet styrene at the back. For the damper pivots I turned aluminium liners. Once the engine is painted these should look a lot like on the original gearbox.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/62suspensionmountingpointsongearbox.jpg


The final gear housing still needs a good deal of work. I went a bit in the wrong direction there. That has to be fixed together with the upper suspension arms.

Another big job were the rear brake ducts. They come as one piece with the uprights which isn’t helpful for painting and CFing and anyway the uprights needed improvement :-) More importantly the kit ducts aren’t Spa-spec. For the Belgian GP Jordan used versions with additional periscope style ducts. I made these from 0,3 and 0,5mm sheet styrene ( and body filler…) and also closed the lower ducts from the inside that way.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/63modifiedrearbrakeducts.jpg


The black portions are modified Tamiya part and the white is added…you get the picture :-) The parts also tell a little story about my trouble finding the right place for the hole that the toe link will pass through. Well, on the left one I finally found it :-)

So after all the pictures of the individual parts here are some shots of them dry mounted on the gear box:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/64rearsuspensionpartlydrymountedrea.jpg



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/65rearsuspensionpartlydrymountedins.jpg



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/66rearsuspensionpartlydrymountedtop.jpg



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/67rearsuspensionpartlydrymounted3Qr.jpg



As I said before, it took more time than I initially thought, I only built one side so far and the upper arms promise to be even more time consuming. My next project will be curbside and have fenders…! :-)

Thanks for looking again! More to come later…

Jay - I know we throw the word "amazing" around here on the forums quite frequently and admittedly a bit too recklessly, but I would say that this certainly qualifies as a truly amazing build. This is the type of build that inspires me to take my own modeling to the next level and I greatly thank you for that. I will be following this thread very closely and can’t wait to see what other tricks you have up your sleeve.

Thank you!!

Stuart

...All superglue :-) I spot glue the parts in place applying the glue with a needle with a flattened tip and once the part sits right fill up the rest of the gap. Then i sand the excess super glue away with files or mostly just 360 and 600 grit sandpaper...


What kind/brand of superglue exactly? I am experimenting with different types and brands lately and found most are not really good for modeling, some only adhere to your fingers, some "fog" like crazy... you get the idea :rolleyes:

Ohh by the way the progress is still impressive :p

Inspiring and riveting thread jaykay :thumbsup:

My next project will be curbside and have fenders…! :-)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/SMILEYS/rofl.gif
I certainly hope not!! ;)

DeNnis, I have been trying out the BSI (http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/hobby.html) series of c/a glues recently and have found them very nice to work with. They have a very wide range of c/a and epoxies. You might want to give them a try?

What kind/brand of superglue exactly? I am experimenting with different types and brands lately and found most are not really good for modeling, some only adhere to your fingers, some "fog" like crazy... you get the idea :rolleyes: :p

Nothing fancy :-) Currently i use one that's called "Hype" from the local RC-Store ( the thin or "dünnflüssig" variety ).
I have also used "Pascofix" and others. I prefer the thin stuff because it flows better between parts and i think it sticks quicker than gels for example.
For building like i do it here fogging is not a problem anyway. Once paint is on i try to use very little glue. To reduce the amount needed and to make placement of parts safer i use all those little locator pins.

Hope that answers your questions :-)

Answered them very well - thank you!

Nothing fancy :-) Currently i use one that's called "Hype" from the local RC-Store ( the thin or "dünnflüssig" variety ).
I have also used "Pascofix" and others. I prefer the thin stuff because it flows better between parts and i think it sticks quicker than gels for example.
For building like i do it here fogging is not a problem anyway. Once paint is on i try to use very little glue. To reduce the amount needed and to make placement of parts safer i use all those little locator pins.

Well so there is no magic behind it, ehh? :wink:

Dennis, I have been trying out the BSI (http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/hobby.html) series of c/a glues recently and have found them very nice to work with. They have a very wide range of c/a and epoxies. You might want to give them a try?

sounds interesting, where did you buy it? For Epoxy glue, I am really happy with Z-poxy from Pacer Techn., one of my favourites... Ok enough off topic, sorry JK :iceslolan

Inspiring work Jaykay. The precision of your fabricated parts is remarkable.

More bits….still no paint :-)

As I predicted in the last update there was still a lot to do on the rear suspension. The right side lower wishbone was a much quicker build though than the first one on the left. Once you have figured out the dimensions a mirrored copy is quicker to do :-)

But before attacking the upper arms I made new drive shafts. They consist of some etched parts, turned aluminium bits and brass tube. In the picture you have the parts spread in the front, a semi assembled one in the middle ready for paint and for comparison the kit part in the back. Having more parts makes painting in individual colours easier….no masking but careful gluing later on :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/68driveshafts.jpg


That done and finally focusing on the upper wishbones I realized however that the new final gear cover I had built from styrene earlier had it’s problems in places where the suspension and rear wing would be connected. I could have tried to work around that somehow but that promised to be messy so I decided to do a new better one.
This time I machined it from Renshape and detailed it some more. Especially the flange where it is connected to the gear box is now a lot better than the first time.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/69newfinalgearcover.jpg


In the next picture it sits in its place. The really time consuming part was to get it sit in the right angle and get the mounting points right for the etched wing supports because if that was just a bit off the wing would possibly be angled and create even more headaches :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/70newfinalgearcovermounted.jpg


The next picture is of the upper suspension part from the kit. It’s the same story all over as with the other ones…it needs detailing.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/71kitupperrearsuspensionarms.jpg


I replaced all the mounting points once more and had to tweak the angle and lengths.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/72upperrearsuspensionarms.jpg


The time consuming part however were the little sub frames that Tamiya represented with those triangular blobs…
I scratch built them from Renshape cut to 0,2mm thickness. Here you see them in progress.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/73upperrearsuspensionsubframesinpro.jpg


In the next picture you see them mounted to the gear box along with the wing supports. The subframes are in fact not yet finished ( they need additional mounting points for undertray supports ) but I first needed them to test fit the wishbones.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/74wingsupportdrymounted.jpg


Then I could also take care of the rear dampers, sitting on top of the gear box. I had made all the parts for them along with the front damper. They are of similar construction but differ in details. Here is the parts spread for one damper.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/75reardamperelements.jpg


I also made new pressure reservoirs for the dampers, that sit left and right of the gearbox and will be connected to the dampers with braided line later on. The black parts are made from the kit parts ( that I forgot to take a picture of ) and the rest is turned aluminium.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/76reardamperreservoirs.jpg


So here finally are some pictures of all the new parts dry mounted. It takes ages until everything is where it should be without glue but that was necessary to find out the correct lengths before painting. The dampers for example needed some shortening to fit and that would have been a mess after painting.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/77rearsuspensiondrymounted.jpg


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/78rearsuspensiondrymountedrearview.jpg


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/79rearsuspensiondrymountedtopview.jpg


One thing I still have to do is the anti-roll-bar that is mounted to the wing supports and connected to the bell cranks ( a.k.a. damper pivots ) via thin arms. I will build that later though when the parts I have built so far are painted and assembled because I’ve come to the point where I just have too many parts for dry mounting any more.

One more thing I made is the gear box oil cooler that sits between the wing supports. This is a late season addition that is missing in the kit but has to be on the Spa car. From the pictures I have I figured out it should look like this:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/80gearboxoilcooler.jpg


It’s made from etched parts and Renshape and ready for some colour. I just hope I won’t mess up those tiny meshes with paint.

That’s it again. The next update may even feature some priming and painting…I’ll see :-)

I don't believe in my eyes!!
Congratulations...

Your work is so amazing, I actually start laughing out loud in disbelief while reading your updates :)

100% joy to watch your work :thumbsup:

Unbelievable. If you could mass-produce these as kits you would have an amazing detail market at your fingertips.

Jay, you're bringing modeling arts to a whole new perspective.

If it wasnt for the Plastic it would look like a 1:1 build!!! I cant wait to see what you do to the engine if youve spent so much time in detailing the suspension. Stunning Work!!!

Houston…we have paint!

Well for the start it’s primer to be precise :-) I gave the engine a good layer of 2K-body filler and sanded it where necessary. Then, after sanding the primer off the suspension mounting points, I added photoetched “Jordan” logos left and right on the gear box ( where I had sanded off the molded in ones earlier ) and the part on top.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/81engineprimered.jpg


The same goes for the cam covers. I sanded off the molded in Ford logos, cleaned the parts where necessary and drilled a couple of holes where wires and other detail bits will go later. Then I added etched Ford logos. These and the Jordan ones for the gear box were bitches to make. I pushed the limit a bit in terms of material thickness for the scripts and produced some waste parts until I had a set of usable ones, but I finally got there :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/82camcovers.jpg


So now the parts were ready for some paint. The kit instructions call for the gear box to be painted gun metal grey, but the paints I had looked a bit bright compared to the original so I made my own darker mix from enamel semi gloss black and aluminium and sprayed a good layer with high pressure and from a bit of a distance to get a rougher “cast” look. That worked o.k. but the paint took an age to dry…
After that I masked off the gear box and sprayed the engine block Alclad Aluminium. The cam covers were painted ZERO Jet Black. That done I once more carefully sanded off the paint from the elevated areas of the etched parts, dry brushed the gear box slightly ( I might add some more later…) and glued the came covers in place.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/83engineandgearboxpainted.jpg



The next step was to glue the turned aluminium rings for mounting the bell cranks and another ring where the external starter is connected on the real car.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/84boltsaddedtogearboxleftside.jpg



The gear box and the final gear cover in particular were then decorated as per the original with etched bolt heads.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/85boltsaddedtogearboxrightside.jpg



Next step I added the little oil tank on top of the gear box. It’s the kit part with a new ( thinner ) oil line and an additional cap.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/86gearboxoiltankinstalled.jpg



Finally I mounted the first parts of the drive shafts, now painted ZERO gloss black and Alclad Magnesium and the throttle slides that I painted Jet Black again.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/87driveshaftbasesinstalled.jpg


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/88throttleslidesinstalled.jpg



So this is where I am right now. Painting all those parts is really time consuming and slowing progress down but so far at least it worked as planned :-)

This is one sick built

That engine and gearbox assembly is breathtaking! :worshippy

that engine and gearbox assembly is breathtaking! :worshippy

dido!!

dido!!


Double dido!! Nice finish!

Fantastic work on a fantastic topic.

Quality JayKay just pure quality!!!

Some more progress!

After the steps on the engine I showed you last time I had to carry on and do the dampers:-)
The individual parts and the bell cranks were painted Alclad Aluminium and enamel orange/red and blue and then carefully assembled. Here you see one of the rear dampers ( not fully pushed together as I noticed too late :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/89reardamperpainted.jpg



I then put them in their places on top of the gear box:



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/90reardampersinstalledleftside.jpg



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/91reardampersinstalledreartop.jpg



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/92reardampersinstalledrightfront.jpg



There are of course more parts to follow but I finally had to turn my attention to something else… the cowling. Without that done, progress was stuck in several areas so I couldn’t avoid it any longer :-)
As I mentioned in an earlier update ( I think..:-) I carved out the inside of the cowling to achieve a more realistic material thickness ( now between 0,5 and 0,7mm ) especially in the visible areas. Here’s a shot of the inside that may give an idea of all the work involved :-)



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/93modifiedcowlinginside.jpg



I also cut off the kit part’s locator pins that hold the cowling in place. That is very unrealistic and I wanted something better :-) My original plan was to tweak the cowling well enough so it would just nicely slide on and stay in its place. This tweaking involved a hot air gun which is a dangerous tool around styrene…. I messed up the original cowling and had to order a replacement and redo all the carving :-(
So this time I was extra careful with the heat, not even wearing cotton gloves to rather burn my fingers than melt the cowling again… However after half a Saturday carefully heating and bending I finally had to admit to myself that this wasn’t gonna work. The Jordan 191 cowling has a too complicated shape ( especially the pointy bits at the front ) to do that. ( I have a semi finished McLaren MP4/8 where it worked fine…) .
To my defence I have to say the real F1 cowlings are usually forced in place with DZUS and screws so I was trying to better them :-)
Anyway, I had to turn to plan B and also install pins to hold the cowling in place. Just more realistic ones than Tamiya :-) Just drilling thin holes in the plastic parts and sticking a metal pin in wouldn’t last too long. The pin would break out and ruin the plastic and paint.
So I turned some 0,3mm pins with 1mm diameter “heads” to have more surface to glue and superglued these in 4 places at the front and rear of the cowling flush with the surface.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/94frontcowlingfasteningpin.jpg



They fit into holes I drilled in the metal flange I added to the lower bodywork panels earlier. The holes are in the same places as on the real car. I just don’t use all of them. Next is a picture of the rear where you can see them from both sides.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/95rearcowlingfasteningpins.jpg



The tricky part will be to keep them clean and functional throughout the painting process and later not make scratches with them on the finished model when installing the cowling :-)

In the next picture the cowling sits in its place. I now have tight shutlines like I wanted and keep my fingers crossed this will stay.
As you can see I had to rework some areas with polyester putty and styrene to match the surfaces again. That was a result of my modifications and not a mistake of the kit parts.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/96cowlingfixedonchassis.jpg



To work on all this I sketch glued the lower bodywork parts and the cockpit tub to the floor with drops of superglue. I then realized that it would be near impossible to get the same fit again after breaking this assembly up and painting the parts individually. So I decided to permanently glue the lower bodywork panels. They were integral parts of the floor on the real car as well. This will make painting and decaling more complicated but I will not have a split line between the green areas and the floor in the end which is more realistic.



Another area I worked on was the roll hoop. You may remember that I cut it off the chassis early on. I detailed it with some etched bits and made it a bit higher. This was possible because my cowling is now thinner and I leave no gap in between the hoop and the cowling like Tamiya.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/97rollhoopandfuelfiller.jpg



In the picture you also see an etched part for the top of the fuel cell and a new fuel filler I made form an etched base and a turned and milled aluminium piece.

Next is the roll hoop in its place.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/98rollbarinplace.jpg



The whole exercise of making it higher and carving out the cowling in the air intake area was done for a reason. On the kit cowling there’s a lip missing around the air intake that covers the roll hoop when seen from the front. Tamiya couldn’t do it because that part would have had an undercut and not come out of the mould anymore. This is how mine looks now:



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/99modifiedairintakecoversrollbar.jpg



That’s it for now. The parts will now get some primer and then another round of sanding I guess :-)

This build is setting the bar way to high in 1/20th F1 modeling.
The engine-gearbox assembly is stupendous and those dampers are awesome! :worshippy

I need beers to view this thread so I don't get depressed by how BLOODY AWESOME this work is.
Fantastic work. I love scratchbuilding.

:cheers:
Nenad

This isn't modelling from another planet, it's modelling from another galaxy!

Inspiring and educational to follow your thinking processes and techniques. Thank you so much for sharing in such detail :thumbsup:

Sometime I say myself "Why I kill me with hard mods, and barely finish 1 model/years... sometimes I'll do something box stock and feel haapyness...)

Than I see someone other do much more, going deep in details and pulling the bar incredibly HI.

A joy to see, motivating.

PS/Edit: Must be first time I see dampers fitted with uniballs.......................................... .............................. speachless....................

I think it is time to get new life to the machining forum....

Amazing job !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Excellent work as usual. It amazes me how much detail you put into pieces that will not easily be seen. Yesterday we had a big model show and several guys and myself were commenting on your craftsmanship.

Ditto GIONC. Astonishing work! With such focus and attention to both detail and the big picture, you should be working on a real Formula 1 team.

(There will be four new teams next year. Why not apply? And include this WIP as part of your CV?)

Ddms

Amazing. You are going to make super detailing the thing to do!!
Turning into a work of art.


Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo-Strictly 43rd Revival model/photo contest-Chicago April 24th 2010

I can't believe that you got the cowling so thin, brilliant stuff... I have to try that on my next build...

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/78rearsuspensiondrymountedrearview.jpg


Hi Jay

Just wondering if you'd noticed (and apologies if you have this covered) but I see that the side panel below is fairly angled into the floor, without a step as in the Tamiya kit. In addition, the paint would be sprayed onto the CF as though it had been masked on the real panel, rather than as two separate components (which is how it looks on the original kit).

Hope you don't mind me mentioning this, and please keep it coming.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/1.jpg

@lotus123: Don't mind it at all...well spotted :-) I'm in the process of doing something about that actually. Glueing the bodywork panels to the floor as i described in the update was step one. I had hoped that some primer and sanding would do the rest but it looks like i will have to give it some putty too. It will not look 100% like on the real car. That would have meant to rebuild the panels completely and i couldn't be bothered to do that to be honest :-)

@GTmike.....thanks:-) I actually saw some pictures from that show right now, including your time attack car...when's that gonna progress!?

@Didymus.....frankly, no thanks :-) The teams need engineers and mechanics and i'm neither of them. I work on street cars and wouldn't wanna be an engineer there either :-)

I love it Jay! I know I told you not to paint anything, but I guess it looks OK with some paint on there. :)

The mock up looks fantastic, but as silly as it sounds my favorite part so far are the little aluminum sleeves in the gearbox for the pivots. Those look perfect! Like they were just pressed in.

Keep it going!
Clay

Hi everyone. It’s been some time again and here is a bit of an update.
I’m in the middle of the painting process which is as always time consuming and not really interesting to look at in pictures if you ask me, but here are some shots anyway.
The first one is particularly impressive…..body in white primer on white background :-)



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/100bodyinwhiteprimer.jpg



At that point the bodywork already had a layer of automotive primer/filler on and sanded, followed by a layer of 50% thinned grey ZERO primer with another session of sanding and this layer of white ZERO primer. I used the ZERO primers for the first time and I’m quite pleased with them. They are no replacement for the urethane automotive stuff I’ve been using for a while now. That’s thicker and better for smoothing out surface blemishes, but the ZERO stuff is very good as a final layer to show those last imperfections that require just a little sanding.
Getting to “tiny” imperfections I realized something at that point though ( and Lotus123 rightly pointed it out :-). The lower bodywork panels were just not blending into the undertray well enough. I had hoped for the paint to fix most of that but it didn’t look like that was gonna work ( with only paint and clearcoat still to come ). So I brought out the polyester putty again and went to work. It took me quite a bit of annoying puttying and sanding ( while I wanted to see some paint on the bloody thing…) but the result is an improvement.
After going through the primers again in the reworked area the body was finally ready for paint. I used the ZERO Jordan set, spraying dark green first with the lower areas masked that were going to be blue in the next step. The paint wasn’t thinned further and went on very well. Here it’s already complete:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/101bodycoloured.jpg


The blue is different in reality than it shows up in the pictures…not so ultramarine. I do wonder which drug was involved when that paint scheme was signed off at Jordan :-) The dark green and blue are quite a mismatch imho. It gets better with the light green bits and the sponsor logos will surely do their part but still…
Another view from the rear:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/102bodycolouredrearview.jpg


In the next detail shot you can better see how the panels are now smoothly connected to the floor ( compared to the unpainted picture ). Panel thickness is not as thin as should be, but that’s how much I managed to do.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/103bodyworkpanelssmoothedintoundert.jpg


The question when painting this car for many builders is, what to do about the light green areas on the cowling and the strip on the front wing. Use the decals or paint!? Both Tamiya and Studio27 provide a straight strip which is a mess to get in place on the very curved front edge of the wing. Painting seems to be the better option. If you then use the decals for the cowling the colours most likely won’t match though. Masking the light green areas isn’t much fun either so I chose a different approach. I first masked and painted the front wing strip.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/104noseconeincolour.jpg


Then I cut out the light green Tamiya decals ( without the surrounding transparent strip ) and improved their shape according to reference pictures. ( The shape of the Studio 27 decals fit less…). Cutting out the decal with a knive will only get you so far. But the edges can be carefully smoothed out with sand paper at that point.
Then I took the shaped decals and airbrushed them with the ZERO light green. After drying I applied them the “normal” way. They get a bit stiffer and won’t work on very curvy surfaces but that wasn’t the case here anyway.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/105roughpaintedges.jpg



As a result I have matching light green areas on the front wing and cowling but there is a problem as you can see in the above detail picture. Just like the separation line where I masked between dark green and blue, the edges of the light green areas aren’t perfectly sharp. They are a bit rough just like on a 1:1 paintjob but there you never get so close that you notice. On a scale model ( and in close up pictures…) that’s another thing :-) While a thin white line decal will hide that edge between green and blue the light green edge will stay. I will try to improve some of that. The unaltered decals would have had sharper edges but then the shape would have been wrong here and there. It’s kind of a Catch 22 :-)

So for now that’s it. A lot of work, but not much to show for it at this stage. Next up I’ll have to paint some areas black and then it’s time for CF decals. Time consuming work again, so the next update may take a bit as well :-)

Cheers for looking!

Hey, you said that pictures of paint is boring, but I just learned something! That decal technique is very ingenious trick. I know I will be able to use that down the road when I get to paint. Thanks for sharing!

In the next detail shot you can better see how the panels are now smoothly connected to the floor ( compared to the unpainted picture ). Panel thickness is not as thin as should be, but that’s how much I managed to do.


Nice one, Jay! You've dealt with that panel "step" neatly.

I think you will be able to create the effect of "thinner" panels by masking halfway across the panel edge when you paint the black(?) coat around the diffuser and floor.

Edit: Sorry - on re-reading the second part of this post I think I'm doing this:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_0383-719111.jpg

Awesome Work, the colours look great, I cant wait to see it with the full livery!!

What amazing work! :runaround:

I have learned a lot from your build and look forward to the next post. Now, if I only had 1/4 of your modeling skills I would be a very happy man.

Hi guys, i'm an old modeller, but new to this site. Great work on the 191. I have the same kit which I will be starting soon, and will follow your build with interest. I am currently finishing a 1:20 tamiya Wolf WR1. I will post some completed pics one of these days.

This is freakin mind blowing!!!!

Hi everyone

It’s been a while but here finally comes an update. After the last one I simply had no time for modeling for the rest of ’09. Since early January i’ve been working on the Jordan again but this was mostly painting, decaling and polishing which is time consuming and annoying and doesn’t deliver much in the way of progress pictures to show :-)
Anyway, here’s what I did:

After painting the bodywork colours I masked them off and painted black for the areas that were going to be covered with CF. I then set off for a near endless journey of decaling. I mostly used Crazy Modeler 0124 decals. They are almost identical to SMS 1024, just a bit darker. My reasoning for that was that they might spare me darkening them. During application I learned though that they are nicer and more forgiving to work with than their SMS counterparts ( which I used on the underside of the floor ). They take a lot of abuse and with the help of MicroSol turn rubbery but don’t disintegrate or become too fragile to handle like the SMS ones did for me. Especially for complicated surfaces they are my new weapon of choice. The brake ducts that I will show at a later point wouldn’t have been possible with the SMS decals I have. Anyway this first picture shows the main parts CF’d and shot with one layer of protective 2K-clear:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/106mainbodyworkdecaledandclearcoate.jpg


I tried to lay out the patterns like on the original as far as the reference pictures showed them.
It took a lot of time :-) When I was done I realized though, that the CF was way too light compared to the real car, so after the layer of clear I masked the green and blue areas once more and toned the CF down with ZERO “Smoke”. It was the first time I used that stuff and it worked nicely. Unlike the Tamiya smoke which is a bit brownish ( warm grey ) this one is more blueish ( cool grey ) just like Alclad Smoke. It works fine for the Jordan with its blue and green bodywork but might work less well with a Ferrari or Lotus 99T. I’ll have to try that :-) Here’s a shot of the darkened CF on the model next to the bare decal:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/107CFsmoked.jpg


The pattern shows well with direct light but appears black from 30cm away or with less light. That’s the effect I wanted to achieve for a realistic appearance. However it did make me feel a bit stupid when I realized how much work I put into first putting all that CF and then almost making the pattern disappear again…..modeling masturbation…:-)

The next picture is a whole lot of time later. That’s how the bodywork looks right now after livery decals, several layers of clear and endless sanding and polishing.
At the time of applying them i felt like ranting about the inaccuracies of Studio27 decals at this point but I’ll spare you that :-) I ended up using a mix of Tamiya and S27 decals but the combination of them still doesn’t let you build a 100% accurate Spa version. Maybe for others they work. Also, if you build this version forget about the livery guides in the S27 set or the Jordan 191 Perfect manual. They are both wrong…


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/108bodydecaledclearedandpolished.jpg


One pet thing of mine I wanted to get right ( or at least a bit better than on previous builds ) was the paint finish and differences between painted and bare CF areas. There’s room for improvement but I’m starting to be happy about it now :-)
I wet sanded the paint with 1200 and 2000 grit sandpaper to even out the surfaces ( and get rid of dust particles…) and then polished with micromesh up to 4000 grit to get a semi gloss surface. On the undertray and monocoque I then masked off the CF areas and carried on polishing and finally waxing all the areas that are in blue or green. I hope you can see the result with different levels of glossiness in the next picture.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/109glossybodyvssatinCF.jpg


The front wing went through the same process. I ended up using a lot more clear than I wanted ( gotta try a different approach on the next model…), which kept me worried about the cowling still fitting in the end. As a safety measure I didn’t paint and decal the inside of the nosecone and the cowling yet. This was going to leave a chance to thin them locally if the fit turned out too tight. In case of the nosecone that proved to be a wise decision. There’s some filing and scraping necessary to make it fit to the monocoque again…


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/110frontwingdecaledclearedandpolish.jpg


Next up is the underside of the nose. Same process of paint with CF decals darkened. There are some vertical strakes missing that will follow once I install the flaps and endplates.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/111frontwingunderside.jpg


The monocoque with bare CF areas as per the original. Lots of sanding/polishing and masking…


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/112monocoqueandundertrayCF.jpg


Besides all the painting, sanding and polishing ( of wich there’s still a lot to come on smaller bits like the wings ) I also worked a bit on small parts which I like better :-)
For the rear light I first tried to modify the kit part but soon realized i could just as well scratch it. So I made the body from renshape plus a holder from wire and styrene bits. The glass piece is made from red plexi glass.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/113scratchbuiltrearlight.jpg


After spraying it Jet Black I installed it on the rear wing support. That one and the gear box oil cooler that I already showed were also painted Jet Black. You can also see a turned aluminium piece in front of the cooler that is part of the anti roll bar.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/114installingrearlightandgearboxoil.jpg


To get a somewhat faceted look for the rear light I painted some silver through a mesh on the backside, followed with black which hides a drop of glue that holds the glass piece.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/115rearlampmounted.jpg


The wing support is mounted to the gearbox housing with Scalehardware hex bolts w/studs. The drill is just to hold it in place as long as some parts are still missing :-) A/N-fittings and hoses for the radiator will also follow later. The rear beam wing has been CF’d, painted and sanded/polished just like the monocoque and undertray.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/116gearboxoilradiatormounted.jpg


So that’s it for now. I think I need to play some more with some small bits because I’m fed up with clear coat polishing at the moment but there’s still a good deal of that to come :-( At least so far most parts came out like I wanted them to :-)

Thanks for following!

Wow, great job decaling. Your clearcoat is almost perfect after polishing. Looks like alot of work and fun!!


Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo 2010 model/photo contest-Chicago April 24th 2010

EUH, WOOOOOOOOW, unbelievable what a build of this car, i just can't stop watching it...


keep it up..


Paul.

Flawless result !!

Wonderful! You are the pride - and envy - of the neighborhood.

DDMS

Excellent work mate! Your CF work looks flawless and extremely realistic. I'm glad to see the decals have been darkened. Thanks for the tips you provide in your posts about how you execute every little detail. I learn more from your posts than I do from other people.

Again Amazing Work!!!! Beautiful finish & nice work on all the Carbon.
I think that SMS has changed their CF colours, theyve made it in a darker grey colour rather than the silver. heres a comparo i did with old & new 1024 CF twill weave, seat has old Silver CF & Interior base has new grey CF.
It is alot more realistic

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s258/da_ashman/FXX%2017/Photos182.jpg

Cant wait to see what you do next!!!

Holy shmoly! :eek:

Looks simply stunning! As always, you amaze with each update :thumbsup:

I have a question about the rear brake light that you scratched.

In the photo below there seems to be some sort of (realistic!) pattern in the red glass. How did you achieve this? (I am guessing some p/e plate behind the red plexi but....?)

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/114installingrearlightandgearboxoil.jpg


Thanks for the tips you provide in your posts about how you execute every little detail. I learn more from your posts than I do from other people.
:iagree: :1:

Lovely work; I especially like the technique for the rear light.

Wohooo awesome, love it! I did the same thing with sanding the "CF clear" to get a somewhat semi-gloss finish on my Aston. But you might consider someday to just spray some semi gloss clear. You simply sand the 2k clear and apply one thin layer. The 2k then gives you this "deep" look but it is still semi-gloss :smooch:. Which I think looks a bit better, in real life at least, you probably won't see any differences on pics :biggrin:

Wohooo awesome, love it! I did the same thing with sanding the "CF clear" to get a somewhat semi-gloss finish on my Aston. But you might consider someday to just spray some semi gloss clear. You simply sand the 2k clear and apply one thin layer. The 2k then gives you this "deep" look but it is still semi-gloss :smooch:. Which is think looks a bit better, in real life at least, you probably won't see any differences in pics :biggrin:

Well, i tried but haven't found the right semi gloss clear. Which one are you using? I have previously sprayed enamel satin or matt clear over the 2K but during handling of the pieces while further building the model that wears off on the edges. I've bought matt 2K-clear but that didn't work because the grainy stuff that gives the matt effect in the glossy paint is just too coarse for mixing it to a semi gloss. Sanding is the best solution but doesn't work well in tricky corners and is time consuming...





I have a question about the rear brake light that you scratched.

In the photo below there seems to be some sort of (realistic!) pattern in the red glass. How did you achieve this? (I am guessing some p/e plate behind the red plexi but....?)


You have to read the stuff i write between the pictures.... :-)

I first had wild plans to mill a pattern from the backside but ended up just spraying some silver through a mesh ( in this case the silver foil thing from a BRAUN electric shaver ). Some black followed after that or the glue that holds the part would show :-)


Thanks everyone for the comments! Much appreciated. Makes me feel less stupid when spending so much time on that stuff :-)

Very inspirational!!! I love this fourm... Thanks for showing your methods.

You have to read the stuff i write between the pictures.... :-)
hehe! Sorry about that ;)
(I guessed pretty close though :D ;) )

Great idea with different glossiness for the CF decals. Painted body looks awesome!