bov constantly blowing off

i finished my 6 bolt swap, i am trying to reprogram the apexi computer I have but it is difficult to monitor the air flow when it is constantly flucuating. while idling, the engine is constantly making the noise as if the blow off valve is constantly releasing the air pressure. like it is blowing off during shifts. ideas?

What bov are you using? So you get a little whistle at idle from the bov?

yea mods list please

1g head, 1g block, 6 bolt motor, 2g exhaust, 2g intake, apexi air flow system, apexi exhaust, apexi intake piping, intercooler, 550cc injectors, apexi bov, t3 turbo, downpipe, i have adjusted the air/fuel ratio from 0% correction to +30%, doesnt seem to affect this, some injen parts also but i dont remember exactly which ones, only a few though, timing is perfect, compression all across the board, no issues with plugs/wires

Usually with bigger injectors, you subtract airflow. Can you tell if you're running rich? You say you have it at +30, maybe the ecu is seeing alot of air coming into the engine, and wanting to release it. Just a thought

You may also need to adjust your BOV. The spring tension could be set to loose.

My advice: take it to someone that knows whats up.

before i had ever swapped the engine, it was set at +25% at 1000rpm. i can only logically figure, the bov went bad, so I will check the spring, or vaccuum leak, my airflow hovers at stoich while idling, when I lower the correction, the idle drops, runs lean, but doesnt change that noise. i have one of the techs that worked on the cybernation rsx-s car, which he now owns, coming over to help figure it out. if he could get 450+ hp out of that little engine, then I am sure he could figure this one out. unfortunately, he doesnt know crap about mitsubishis. which is why I still need some additional research. i will keep looking into it, just had a long time issue with oil leaks, i finally finished.

update. put everything together on the car, drove it 30 miles, accellerates slugish, could be because apexi isnt program, doesnt explain the bov noise. it doesnt seem like there is air coming out of the bov. it is making the same noise as if i am constantly shifting. the sound appears to be coming out of the air filter

Have you done a boost leak check? Are all the vac lines hooked up right? When you do the boost leak check, have someone sit in the car and watch the boost guage. If the boost leak is big enough you might not hear it and intake system wont hold any pressure at all. Do you have a wideband o2 sensor? If you dont, dont put any stock in that a/f ratio guage.

The bov problem or air leaking sound problem would have nothing to do with the piggyback settings right? I'm thinking its all in the vacuum system. Check for leaks, do a boost leak test.

did a boost leak test, never found a leak, it is possible issues with vaccuum. thats the least of my concerns now. its gotta be a botched rebuild job, but the head gasket is blown. im not sure exactly what occured first but it just started overheating suddenly, after it cooled, i added more water, didnt see any leaks anywhere. drove fine though still a little sluggish, 5 miles later, overheated again. cooled again, checked for leaks, found none, put about 2.5 gallons of water in. drove it another 5 miles, overheated again, allowed it to cool. this time while filling it up, i noticed i couldnt top it off, cooler hose leaking, fixed it. took out the plugs since it didnt want to stay running, was about to check the compression, in place of the air in the chamber is .46 liters of water. 62 miles on the engine, definately explain why it was sluggish if water kept leaking in to one of the cylinders. i never found any oil in the water and my oil pressure never changed...dunno
anyone have a 2g motor with low miles they are selling. i think i will just put the right motor in the car this time.

did a boost leak test, never found a leak, it is possible issues with vaccuum. thats the least of my concerns now. its gotta be a botched rebuild job, but the head gasket is blown. im not sure exactly what occured first but it just started overheating suddenly, after it cooled, i added more water, didnt see any leaks anywhere. drove fine though still a little sluggish, 5 miles later, overheated again. cooled again, checked for leaks, found none, put about 2.5 gallons of water in. drove it another 5 miles, overheated again, allowed it to cool. this time while filling it up, i noticed i couldnt top it off, cooler hose leaking, fixed it. took out the plugs since it didnt want to stay running, was about to check the compression, in place of the air in the chamber is .46 liters of water. 62 miles on the engine, definately explain why it was sluggish if water kept leaking in to one of the cylinders. i never found any oil in the water and my oil pressure never changed...dunno
anyone have a 2g motor with low miles they are selling. i think i will just put the right motor in the car this time.

Dude I have to say, that royally sucks. Did you have your engine rebuilt at a shop? Before you go looking to buy a new motor, you should rip apart what you have and see if any major damage occured. Even if it was a catostrophic failure and you have to rebuild it, why spend the money buying another motor when a rebuild kit for that engine would probably be cheaper?

Did you have the head re-surfaced before you put it on?

engine was rebuilt at a "racing shop." the head and block were already pieced together for me. i found an engine supposidly has only 3000 miles on it, rebuilt of course, out of a 98 though. good deal though. im going to strip it down and check for flaws. Even with the engine I have in the car right now, I am sure it is just the head gasket. without any water in it, seems to run just the way it did before the first overheat. I plan on taking it all apart, sell the head and internal block parts. I can still make my money back by selling the 1g parts I bought, and sell the additional parts I got with the new engine, like the compressor, alternator, etc.

Are you entirely sure its a HG and not a leak? When it overheats the excess pressure is vented out the bottom... along with like half the coolant in your system. Is it spewing white smoke out the exhaust?

I don't understand why you are buying another motor, when you do not even know if the motor you have is still good? IF it was just a HG why would you just not replace that? Why does a blown head gasket require dropping another 3k on a different motor? Crap even worst case scenario and you warped the head. You know a new head is only about $250 bucks?

I'm just trying to make sense of why you are buying another motor before you even look at the one you have.

Please refer to my previous posts for excuses.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=690820
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=705888
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=725971

basically I have the wrong motor in the car, which I trust will run, except for the fact, I have had one problem after another with it. I didnt post all of them. I just don't trust the motor or the company who had built it. I would put it in a 90-92 non turbo car and trust it more, since that is what it came from. I already bought the engine for $900, the internals look fairly new. i was told it has less than 3000 miles. I have gotten many parts with it I will not need, so I can sell the scrap.

Note: Thor is not saying this with any intent on being an ass, it is just his honest opinion on the matter.

I seriously think you need to take it to someone that knows whats up because quite frankly, I dont think you do. Its easy to miss little shit when doing a motor swap and its those little bugs that I think are plaguing you. Before you start throwing money around on new motors and shit that you probably dont even need, I would atleast have someone/some shop look at it.

Dont take offense to this comment, I just needed to get it out there.

well...it still has perfect compression across the board. the passenger side of the engine compartment has about 1 quart of oil on it, where as the other side is still clean. the head is clean, the valve cover doesnt have a single leak. it still runs. it ran like sh** even when it was tuned, might just be a vaccuum leak. i have pretty much taken it apart 4 times, with how many times i took the same parts off over and over to fix it. oil leak here there, fixed several. also, I have no guarantee the CAS was working when it was given to me. I did wire it up, and it ran. boost leak tested, had some intake parts welded so they would not leak. I know I do not know how to build or rebuild motors. but if an racing engine company builds me the wrong motor to begin with and it overheats 3 times, and I had to keep adding water, they had likely botched other things as well. I just plan on stripping the engines to cut my losses, before the car loses more value

i just had to come back to this thread one last time. i pulled the engine out, took off the head, and gasket. the gasket is still about 99% in tact. the minor damage to the gasket doesnt explain how that much oil and water escaped. what does explain it all is how when i was taking the head bolts loose, well they took very little effort. 4 of the 10 had about 40 ft-lbs torque, 3 had about 75, and 3 had around 140. the exact amount of torque is not specified in the manual, but it states for step 1 to tighten to 58. then some quarter turns. 4 of the bolts had less than this. if you follow the steps, which i had done twice before, result in about 125-145lbs of torque. im going to be making a call to the company that built me the engine. probably useless though. the water was still clean, while it stayed in the water line. the water was leaking into the chambers and oil ports. some of the oil was spraying all over the tranny.