Tamiya or Aztek Airbrush's

Agree for the moisture thing and the working pressure too. Beware of the rust or you're investment will suffer. And don't shoot too high with the Iwata... I don't have this exact model but most of Iwata are rated to work under 40psi... don't blow it !


Thanks guys, i'll check for those things once i get home. I wont be able to use my airbrush for a while though. This week i have lots of things to do :( Have to take the PSAT (High School test) tomorow. Wish me luck!

Good luck then. Don't think too much about the Airbrush, it'll e there when the exam is over... Concentrate !

Good luck then. Don't think too much about the Airbrush, it'll e there when the exam is over... Concentrate !


Finally testing is over! Well guys i tried doing some letters and graffiti with my airbrush. One question i have to ask is when painting a model do you guys press it all the way so alot of paint comes out at once? Or do you have to do it real lightly so it wont accumulate? I know that when painting a car you want to get everything covered at once. Should i give it all the paint and hold it back from far or will i get that old fasion orange peeeeel:(

Well I had a talk with Vric. I asked him about orange peel with an airbrush and he said he didnt know it was possible. Although, he uses enamels and I spary acrylics. I have finnally gotten the "touch" for using my anthem. It is spray light, but not dry. Hard to explain but it turns out great.


As for trigger use. I never pull back my trigger past half way. I find it to be a waste of paint. Also it runs easier like that. Our airbushes are different, so I suggest you use a bottle to test. What works and what doesn't. It will save you hassles.

Well, orange peel depend a lot of the paint you're using... I found that nail polish is pretty hard to do without that orange peel. It suppose to be that way so don't freak out when it's happen... it take a little patience and some 2000 sand paper and compound to have a decend finish. I've never achive a perfect finish with that knid of paint. For acrylics, it pretty easy and you'll have almost no orange peel with the adequate pressure and amount of paint. I spray Tamiya acrylics often and almost never worry about it because it's almost always problems free paint if it's thinned the right way. The Createx is a little more difficult to do right at first, it tend to dry with a little orange peel even if it look OK when you finish shooting... kind of tricky. On enamel, the trick is to do a tack coat before the wet and pretty decend result can be obtain... if not, it's quite easy to compound it to a glossy finish...

I almost never go at full throttle with the airbrush, always keeping in the middle pressure, middle flow area but every airbrush is kind of different so you'll have to do your homework and practice to get it right. Don't worry, it's not that long, the fingers are learning faster than the brain and the first thing you know, you're quite good at it but can't explain why !!! No, sincerely, when poeple ask, it's not easy to explain why the result is so good compare to older works !!! Yup... finger learning !

Ho, and I never work very far from the surface I'm working on... well not too near either or you'll have too much paint and start buildups.

Martbee, what psi do you spray your tamiya acrylics with. Becuase im at about 7-13 and I get this VERY FINE orange peel. I thin at about 2:1.

One thing I learned the hard way today... Lacquer Thinner really hate plastic :D
One of my small Plastic jar is totally scrap becose of that.. was kinda funny to see it, but it's now in really funny shape :D

As for Orange peal, I think it's normal. Exactly like a spray can, you need to do a wet coat once you have "finished" Try higher PSI (15-20psi) and make a bit thicker coat.. be carfull, paint can run easily

Martbee, what psi do you spray your tamiya acrylics with. Becuase im at about 7-13 and I get this VERY FINE orange peel. I thin at about 2:1.
Most of the time between 20 to 25... sometimes I go up to 30... always depending on the way you've thinned your mixture. If I were shooting a mixture of Tamiya 2:1, I'd be around 15psi but that a rule of thumbs... I never go really with the number when it comes to Airbrushing. I like to go with the feeling more than the numbers.

As exemple... I don't even know at what dose I thin... I go with the look of it, if it's milk like, then it Ok for most acrylics (I like my tamiya to be a little (but very little) more thick than that... that's why the higher psi), if I shoot lacquer, I like it to be a little more dillued... especialy the first 2 or 3 first mist coats... just to see if there's a "nude spot" on my model. If there is, the little lacquer won't eat all the plastic but will dig a little hole in it but can easely be repaired then reprimed.

As for another exemple, I don't really write down at what psi with what paint. When the paint have a decend look in the jar, it's time for an "Airborne Shooting"... just shooting away from any surface in the air to see how the paint mist and blend in the air... to ajust the spitting (not enough psi) or too much mist (too much psi). Then the "Object trial"... this is where I shoot on a piece of old canvas to find the right "sweet spot" where the paint will cover at a perfect distance, at the right psi with the prepare dillued (or not) paint. Let the brain control and learn that... observe, pay attention at the weigh you're putting on that trigger, at what distance and everything. Then the final step, move the body of your model, the bike helmet, the real car or everything you have to shoot and go on... don't loose faith in you and never turn back unless if it's to change paint color or add more in the cup (or jar).

Of course... if your shooting at 7-13 psi but never pull all the way back down on the trigger of a double action Airbrush... you're not shooting 13 psi... but you know that !!! So you don't know at what psi you're shooting right ?? Just like me !

As exemple... this babe never had a polish or a compound on it:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/68064F-40_1_redoaf-med.jpg

Martbee, the trigger don't control the PSI, but the quantity of paint. the PSi is controled up and down on the triger (most of the time, it's nearly imposible to not press all the way down the triger, so you always shoot the psi that your compressor give you)

oops, right, got mixt up in the hurry to write such a long message right before work... well, you know what I meant !

I should have wrote "...push all the way down..." instead.

Martbee, the trigger don't control the PSI, but the quantity of paint. the PSi is controled up and down on the triger...
:evillol: PS Vric... this sentence make no sense !! :evillol: :lol:
The trigger does control the pressure but not in a front to back mouvement. Take it easy... we 'll say you were in a hurry too ! :iceslolan 've got to admit though that 80% of the time this is way down... almost 100% of the time on body (well scale model that is).

I notice that the outside temperature has an influence too. Humid day or a windy day don't give great result like you can see on my 350Z done a few month ago (almost years now !?)... it has a light little orange peel when you look at it !

It's not a "P-man flawless paint job" as you can see:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/68064O_34_front_50_redo-med.JPG
Maybe I should learn to polish but... I'd be modelling less !

this is what I wanted to say. I just got out of bed, give my english a break :D

The triger does control the pressure (up and down mouvement) but it's so hard to control that, you end up using the max psi anyway.

your 350Z look fine, beside your interior look glossy :D The really small orange peal can be removed using only coumpond.

btw, I see you had some problem with the windsheild. Glad to see i'm not alone

Yup, seat are too glossy (it's been almost a year now, I've learn a lot in modelling since then... AF credit)... the orange peel are on the upper end of the hood. It's not that bad but not perfect neither. 've got to admit though that 80% of the time this is way down... almost 100% of the time on body (well scale model that is).

Yup, seat are too glossy ...
Woo, I quote my own now !!!
Seats :biggrin: ... I meant all the orange componements in the inside are too glossy cuz they were shot at the same time than the body so ... well, live n learn .

And yes, the Windshield is problematic on the passenger upper side ! Damn.

I had the same problem on boat of my 350Z.. I hate that

I have only sprayed acrylics and metalizer. It is only the acrylics(tamiya) are the ones that I get that fine orange peel on. The metalizer came out gorgeous though. Perhaps laquers are more self leveling? I have taken tamiya laquer out of the can and will hopefully try it out something next week.

Like Vric said, compound will take out the OP. But I really do not want to be componding every little thing I spray!

I have only sprayed acrylics and metalizer. It is only the acrylics(tamiya) are the ones that I get that fine orange peel on. The metalizer came out gorgeous though. Perhaps laquers are more self leveling? I have taken tamiya laquer out of the can and will hopefully try it out something next week.

Like Vric said, compound will take out the OP. But I really do not want to be componding every little thing I spray!

Awesome! You problably wont have to thin it since it already comes from can. Or not? I will try to start experimenting with acrylics next week. I have been shooting some createx water based paints through the airbrush thus far. Unfortunately i got sick again (New Jersey weather sucks!) so no airbrush for today, maybe tomorrow, and most likely sunday :banghead: I still haven't found the smaller color cups for my airbrush around here, this leaves me with no other option other than going to Chinatown NYC where i bought the airbrush which is a really large store but its quite a hassle to get there since its in NYC!(NYC traffice is the worst!) Oh and i see what you guys mean about these 2oz bottles. I have wasted soo much paint that its not even funny! Its soo hard to clean too, because the paint goes on the little bumps and you have to clean it with your fingers one by one. And if you don't clean it properly the other color you place in there will have some of the previous color in it!!!

But the good thing is that im getting the hang of the airbrush. I actually really like it alot better than spray paint. One more question, see how you warm cans up so the paint flows better, Do you warm the paint your going to use on your airbrush?

PS: Martbee, i wish i could get those results that you get with your airbrush on my previously built models which i painted with spray paints. You have no idea how much i had to polish :(

no, you warm a spraycan to give higher pressure to the spraycan. Since you can choose the pressure (PSI) with your compressor with an airbrush, there is no need at all to heat your paint

no, you warm a spraycan to give higher pressure to the spraycan. Since you can choose the pressure (PSI) with your compressor with an airbrush, there is no need at all to heat your paint


OOhh i see! :cwm27: Great!

Yea that is the cool thing about draining the paint from a can. I mean you wont have to thin the paint. Although I have heard of people thinning it with gunze thinner for good results. I personally think it does not need to be thinned but who am I for saying that when I havent even done it yet! Also another good thing is that tamiya makes some mixed colors like their bright red(TS-49) which is scuderia red that are some odd ratios to mix with ain airbrush. Finally they are laquers which polish out to a terrific shine! One a low note watch out for draining the can as I have had a bad experience with paint blowing up in my face... And yea just not good.

Succesfully I did it by attatching a thin straw directly to the tamiya nozzle. Connect the straw to the airbrush bottle. Put a piece of masking tape over the bottle with a hole for the straw and some random vents to gas the paint out as you are spraying. Once it is full then stir it for a while(5-10 minutes). Then open it hourly and stir it. You can hear it gass our as you open the bottle. Stir it again. Come back. I did it five times till I thought it was gassed out enough. Hard part now is spraying it!

BTW I was thinking of doing a how-to on it. Do you guys think I should?

Yea that is the cool thing about draining the paint from a can. I mean you wont have to thin the paint. Although I have heard of people thinning it with gunze thinner for good results. I personally think it does not need to be thinned but who am I for saying that when I havent even done it yet! Also another good thing is that tamiya makes some mixed colors like their bright red(TS-49) which is scuderia red that are some odd ratios to mix with ain airbrush. Finally they are laquers which polish out to a terrific shine! One a low note watch out for draining the can as I have had a bad experience with paint blowing up in my face... And yea just not good.

Succesfully I did it by attatching a thin straw directly to the tamiya nozzle. Connect the straw to the airbrush bottle. Put a piece of masking tape over the bottle with a hole for the straw and some random vents to gas the paint out as you are spraying. Once it is full then stir it for a while(5-10 minutes). Then open it hourly and stir it. You can hear it gass our as you open the bottle. Stir it again. Come back. I did it five times till I thought it was gassed out enough. Hard part now is spraying it!

BTW I was thinking of doing a how-to on it. Do you guys think I should?

That would be very cool.

I have a question that is a bit off topic but hey its about paint.

I was thinking of doing my Integra in a two tone paint. Using Dupli Color automotive primer, dupli color automotive color, then airbrushing some Tamiya Acrylic black on the roof, and then airbrushing some Dupli Color Automotive Clear coat. Will they react? Should i use the Tamiya Acrylic Clear coat? Whats the best? I want to airbrush the roof though. Should i just clear the whole car with Tamiya Acrylic Clear?

From what I've seen in the past, DupliColor and Tamiya dont mix. Also heres a rule for painting, I apply it to models as well; never cross breed, stick with the same brand and same type from primer to clear.

I would have to disagree with Mike on this one. I dont see why tamiya ACRYLIC would not go over duplicolor. Now tamiya LAQUER might be another story.

But to answer Joehams question, I wouldnt not spray tamiya gloss colors. They do not polish well and they take a long time to harden. About the clear coat, tamiyas acrylic would also work but like I said it will take long to harden. Testors laquers would actually work over tamiya acrylics. It may sound funny but it does work! They are not hot at all so it wont crack over the acrylic. Also it turns hard in a week and polishes out like any other laquer.

I would have to disagree with Mike on this one. I dont see why tamiya ACRYLIC would not go over duplicolor. Now tamiya LAQUER might be another story.

But to answer Joehams question, I wouldnt not spray tamiya gloss colors. They do not polish well and they take a long time to harden. About the clear coat, tamiyas acrylic would also work but like I said it will take long to harden. Testors laquers would actually work over tamiya acrylics. It may sound funny but it does work! They are not hot at all so it wont crack over the acrylic. Also it turns hard in a week and polishes out like any other laquer.

So what your saying is that if i spray Tamiya Acrylic black (which i would want to be pretty glossy) it would not get glossy? So then i could use Dupli Color Automotive Primer then Dupli Color Automotive paint for the body and over that i could use Tamiya Acrylic Black for the roof and over that i could use Testors lacquer to seal everything? Testors Laquer meaning the Clear coat (#1814)? I'll try it on this Modifier i got going on. If something bad happens to it then i'll post it.

What types/brands of colors do you guys use to airbrush model cars and get a glossy finish?

I did not mean that it would not get glossy, it just doesnt polish out as well. When I wetsanded my F189 (which was X-7) it didnt turn out as glossy as a laquer finish but it was still very glossy. But the main problem was its drying time, which I hear can be solved via food deyhydrator.

I would test out what you would like to try and see how it works. It would not be safe not to test things out, especially when it is your first time.

I have yet to succesfully airbrush a body. I have used Tamiya TS sprays with flying colors. Their sprays are so wonderful, and polish out so nicely.

I did not mean that it would not get glossy, it just doesnt polish out as well. When I wetsanded my F189 (which was X-7) it didnt turn out as glossy as a laquer finish but it was still very glossy. But the main problem was its drying time, which I hear can be solved via food deyhydrator.

I would test out what you would like to try and see how it works. It would not be safe not to test things out, especially when it is your first time.

I have yet to succesfully airbrush a body. I have used Tamiya TS sprays with flying colors. Their sprays are so wonderful, and polish out so nicely.

Ohh i see what you mean. Their drying time could be like a week or so?

I was just about to test out what i wanted to do but i noticed i just noticed i ran out of black :banghead:

If you airbrush TS sprays will it still come out with that awful smell!!!!!

I know some modeller that tried Tamiya Clear acrylic (X-22 I think) and it seem to never dry.

I personally don't like working with tamiya acrylic paint for body. Engine, interor, chasis it's fine, but not body. just my opinion

Ohh i see what you mean. Their drying time could be like a week or so?

I was just about to test out what i wanted to do but i noticed i just noticed i ran out of black :banghead:

If you airbrush TS sprays will it still come out with that awful smell!!!!!

Drying time for me was more like a month... Even still it was soft! They just do not harden up.

Ok, here I am... after the week-wend.
Stephendeli, don't waste time on doing a how-to on how to empty a TS can... here it is:
Ts paint in Airbrush (http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial.asp?TutorialID=3&CurPage=1)

For Acrylics paint from Tamiya, let dry a month and if you have to do some little handeling, you're ok ! Don't do too much handeling though because the X paint don't have a hard shell but YES, it will have a glossy finish as good as their TS paint. I have a "Ford F100 Harley Davidson Panel truck" to prove it... X-1 is a real black ! Not all the X paint act as well. The problem is the X-22 Clear... this stuff don't seem to get hard (and stay hard) at all !!! You always have to be carefull not to push too hard on it or you'll end up with a fingerprint on the finish. Needeless to say it'll scrap the model and the realism of it ! I have a model with this stuff (great finish though) and even a year after the final shooting I had to be very careful with the fingers passing by.

And finaly, if you think New Jersey weather suck... try Canada for a week !!! :iceslolan

Guys, I'm back with more questions :D

I still haven't made my mind about the right airbrush to buy (and I still don't have enough money eheheh). Initially I intended to buy the Iwata Revolution (as per your recomendations), but I absolutely adore the HP-C (for it's looks and price - more expensive = better?).
But a friend of mine has come to me with a very good question that I could not answer and I was hoping that you airbrush masters would help me :).
That friend owns a Badger 150 and he told me that metallic particles get stuck in the nozzle and in the cup (using acrylics-fast drying). The colour cup on the HP-C is not separate, so I'd have to dip the "entire" airbrush in airbrush cleaner/paint thinner to clean it.

What are you comments on this?

Thank you,
Pedro.

sure, it's fun to have a separate colorcup.
You can use your own airbrush to clean it.

I don't know the best way to clean that, but diping the entire front of the airbrush seam the only solution... and even there, the thinner would go quite dirty fast and you will need to do 2 or 3 dip in fresh tinner... not quite economic.

My anthem have a separate color cup, So I just use the glass jar full of thinner to spray thinner on the color cup. get clean preaty fast. I'm a bit paranoid wiith the cleaning, so it take me 20 minute everytime to fully clean my airbrush (after few use, it's still look new and shiny)

As for metallic particles, the only one I used are ModelMaster Metallizer and Tamiya, and particles are so small that then don't get stuck

Well, I have a 360 Universal from Badger that is this way, no way to detatch the little cup... I'll try to teach you my way of cleaning it ! The way I found to work great (not the only one but...) is to use a Pipette ! I don't even know the translation of it but this is a little plastic device to count the drop you're using... like in laboratory ! I fill it with thinner and I put it's nozzle into the little cup on the Airbrush, I empty it but right after, I refill it from the juice in the cup, then empty then repump the same old juice over and over to create a kind of mini vortex of mixture... no new thinner is use until the 10th time or so. When the juice from this particular process is quite messy, you have the choice to push the Airbrush's trigger or if the particules are too big, just empty it by turning it down. You can take another pipette of bran new thinner and again do this trick until the airbrush is clean... this trick can unpluged all the particules, big or small... well, it always worked for me.

Thank you very much for your answers, guys. I really apreciate it!

oh, and Martbee, I know exactly what a pipette is :D

Again, thank you!

Regards,
Pedro.

Great! Now i know not to use Tamiya Acrylics for bodies, thanks guys.

One more question, If i drain the TS paints to airbrush them, when i airbrush it will it still stink like it does from the can? Or will the smell be less stronger.

^ Thats one of the reasons i hate using TS paints indoors :headshake :shakehead :disappoin


Edit: PS: Once i drain it into a bottle how long could it last inside the bottle without maybe getting bad?

Still stinks

Still stinks

Aww crap! I guess i'll have to get or make a spray booth :disappoin

hummm. TS paint smell really good to me.... :D

once drained, it won't last long. few hours for my experience

hummm. TS paint smell really good to me.... :D

once drained, it won't last long. few hours for my experience

:lol:

Arghhh! Only a few hours. I was hoping for a few weeks!

Well guys im running out of the Airbrush cleaner that the Eclipse came with. Whats my other option of cleaning it. I sprayed some water the other day to get it cleaned and it seemed to work a bit. I also took it all apart and saw that the needle had some paint on it and tried to wipe it gently with a towel as instructed on the Owners Manual but the paint didn't come off, :confused: Also it seems like paint likes to stay where the bottle goes in, i tried to run some water through the inlet to get it out but there was still some paint there :uhoh: But it is still working fine. I will try to go this weekend, since i couldn't last weekend, to the place where i bought it ready to ask plenty of questions. Maybe even take the airbrush over there to see if im doing correctly.

Pedro: The HP-C is a very cool looking one, i saw it at the store when i bought my Eclipse. I liked the fact that it came with a .3 nozzle (my eclipse comes with a .5 nozzle) and that the HP-C is gravity feed. But the eclipse gives you the option of pulling back the needle from the back meaning that all the paint will shoot out while you handle the airbrush from the middle and the back (more control) which i guess will be better to shoot paint on a model. Both are great and sometimes i wonder if i should've bought the an HP (High Performance) series airbrush but then again the HP series costs a bit more. GTmike owns an HP-BC so he could tell you more about the airbrush. Maybe in the future i'll buy an HP airbrush. :cool:

Has anyone used this paint for models?

http://www.dixieart.com/CreatexAutoAir.html

I have heard of some paint done by testors called Boyd or something like that. Is that for airbrush? How good is it?

Cleaner:
For Tamiya Acrylic paint: Go to your wallmart, and buy some windex. Work wonder.

For Testor Enamel: Go to your hardware store and buy a 4 Gallon of Enamel thinner for less than 3$

For Lacquer (such as Model Master Metallizer): Go to hardware store and buy Lacquer Thinner (this one will be in a metal can) usually a 1 Gallon will cost 3$

For Acrylic such as Model Master or testor: Watter work, but if the paint is dried, you will need Lacquer Thinner. This stuff clean everything

TS paint has sat a week in a jar for me!

Great i'll get some Windex soon.

Also has any of you guys bought from DetailandDesigninScale.com?

I bought some Alclad II off the site and paid with paypal since saturday and they still haven't cleared my payment? :licka:

yes I alreay bought from him.. 2 times.. without problem.
I had a problem on my second order, but he solved it without problem. good store !

Ohhh, crap...there goes my airbrush budget! I found a 1:12 Tamiya Ferrari 641/2 for €100....I really wish I win the lottery this weekend :D


Joeham, thanks for you thoughts. When I finally have the money for the airbrush, I'm going to read this thread all over again :) (and continue posting my question here.ehehehh)

yes I alreay bought from him.. 2 times.. without problem.
I had a problem on my second order, but he solved it without problem. good store !

Thats good to hear! :cool:

Ohhh, crap...there goes my airbrush budget! I found a 1:12 Tamiya Ferrari 641/2 for €100....I really wish I win the lottery this weekend


Joeham, thanks for you thoughts. When I finally have the money for the airbrush, I'm going to read this thread all over again (and continue posting my question here.ehehehh)

Nice! Man everyone is getting all these 1:12 Scale models! I think its about time i shall buy one! :evillol:

This thread is very useful for beginners like me. :p

For the Createx Autoair question... YES I have painted with it. Quite a hard paint to work with compared to Tamiya X's paint. They are already thinned to be sprayed by a Spray Gun or an Airbrush but in the last case with a pretty high psi. It dries with a lot more orange peel than every Tamiya paint I know ! It's not pretty glossy and most of the time require a clear coat... and their clear coat tend to turn out a bit yellow but it's "milk like" when you spray it... meaning it's kind of a white clear coat in it's liquid form and goes to a clear (bit yellow) process while drying. They have nice colors though and worth a try for everyone who want to see how easy other paints are ! I made a skull on a 1:1 car with that with great results but a lot of work. Sorry, it's been at least 10 years and had no picture of those work (and the car end up in a tree at least 5 years ago)... don't make the same mistake I did... take pictures people, a lot of them !

Now a really generalist question:
What do you guys think about airbrush maintenance? I mean, does the needle and nozzle need replacing very often; or if much care is taken, it's not "necessary" to replace those parts?
I'm asking this because I don't want to buy an airbrush and then having to buy needles, nozzles, o-rings, etc, every 2 or 3 months, if you know what I mean.

Regards,
Pedro.

PS - I'm really getting annoying here, am I not? :D

if you clean your airbrush carefully, you should never change any part (unless your airbrush is in plastic or an aztek :D)

Well clean your brush well and dont drop it on the needle like I did! Hopefully I can straighten that sucker out...

...unless your airbrush is in plastic or an aztek...
Good call Vric !
I have replaced only 1 needle since I have Airbrushes and it was a jerk who came in my garage and he wanted to see how I was going to do his helmet and during the time I was shooting he wasted his time playing with another Airbrush in my case and twisted the needle (because you can see a bit of the needle sticking out in front of the Airbrush that's why most of the good Airbrushes have a little plastic cap to put on the front of them) ! The guys never told me and it took a couple of days for me to find out. I tried to straiten it out but it wasn't the same. The spray patern was weird and unconvincing. If I knew I'd have charge the guys for the needle. Well, it's not that pricy but he souldn't have play with a tool ! It's not a toy.

So... 1 needle in almost 15 years isn't bad at all... viva Badger and Iwata ! :evillol: The Hell with Aztec !!! :rofl:

How about u people stop laying crap on aztecs all the time i own 3 of them and they all work very well, i had a prob with one and it was promptly replaced, i have just brought a 470 and it works great and is easy to clean not like a lot of other airbrushes, so back off, if ya dont like em fine i dont like a lot of things but if i havn't used em i dont comment on them, so why dont ya all shut the you no what up .

Hooooouuu, At last an Aztek lover... I was hoping for one to come up and defend the Testor brand !!! Nice to know that you love it and...

YES... If the only job of an Airbrush is spraying paint... it does it with quite an ease ! In fact, a straw and a blower does the same thing than an Airbrush... it'll blow paint in a spray too. I worked with a lot of Airbrushes and Aztek (or Testor) was one I didn't recommand because of the "poor ingenering " that come with the product. Sorry, but the plastics noozle with a large or a fine patern that you have to stop while spraying.... I don't like. And beside, the guys around here are trying to buy something with the most knowledge input from us... so Go ahead and tell us what you like about Aztek (if you have 3 of them you should know)... we already told what we don't like !!

Ps... the one I've tried was at least 4 or 5 years ago... maybe they evolve !?

(...)And beside, the guys around here are trying to buy something with the most knowledge input from us...(...)

Well said. That's exactly what I am looking for: knowledge.
Long before I knew Iwata, I wanted to buy an Aztek, but after all these posts, I do think twice ;)

Yes, Bobj, do tell us what you like about the Aztek airbrushes.

... i dont like a lot of things but if i havn't used em i dont comment on them, so why dont ya all shut the you no what up ...
Ho and BTW... I think everybody who comment on Aztek here, have one or already had.... so stop presuming we don't know the stuff we're talking about.

Ho and BTW... I think everybody who comment on Aztek here, have one or already had.... so stop presuming we don't know the stuff we're talking about.

Even I got to put my hands on an Aztek :loser: I have used my airbrush for like 6 times already and it just works perfectly every single time. Really like Iwata's. The only thing that gets me mad is how much paint im wasting with this 2oz. Cup! But that will be fixed this weekend :p

Yeah, a 2onz cup is quite large !!! :iceslolan

And I don't think will be hearding of BobJ... he didn't seem too happy to see we bash the Testor company ! But... he should have told us a bunch of quality that he like from Aztek... or maybe he just never tried anything else !!! Tell the people to shut up if you have something in return to bring to the conversation. Not just to look the toughest one.

No hard feelings boddy ! We love you :uhoh: ... but hate Aztek. :evillol:

Ps joeham... I just hope you're not treating me of the :loser: or you'll have to read all the post before... the Aztek was a gift from a hobbyshop for me to try !

Yeah, a 2onz cup is quite large !!! :iceslolan

And I don't think will be hearding of BobJ... he didn't seem too happy to see we bash the Testor company ! But... he should have told us a bunch of quality that he like from Aztek... or maybe he just never tried anything else !!! Tell the people to shut up if you have something in return to bring to the conversation. Not just to look the toughest one.

No hard feelings boddy ! We love you :uhoh: ... but hate Aztek. :evillol:

Ps joeham... I just hope you're not treating me of the :loser: or you'll have to read all the post before... the Aztek was a gift from a hobbyshop for me to try !

:lol: i meant i was a loser. :lol: Not you!:rofl:

Fieewww... I was getting anxious !

It's a shame that poeple who love Aztek don't have arguement to backup their statement !

Well, no answer is better than a bunch of lies. But it don't help the cause.

Long live the Airbrush tread !!! :iceslolan There's so much to learn and teach around here.