blower motor problem

[reborn55]

Hi all-new here. Looked at some of your older posts-saw the same problem I have. 98 Grand prix--no blower speed on 1.2.3.4--high speed ok. Replaced resisitor--hooked up new one but did not install all the way--did not fix problem--different motor did not fix problem. When you turn the ign. on headlight will come on--I am presumeing auto headlight system because taillights come on. When you go to speed 1-no problem, speeds2,3,4 will turn off the headlights and turn off the A/C compressor--go to high speed and light come back on, blower works and so does the A/C. Any help would be greatl;y appreciated. Thanks.

[BIG-L]

Sounds like the problem is with the ignition switch harness Part # 26068757 When your fan starts working intermittently on speeds 1-4, and eventually only works on the highest speed, this is the part that needs to be replaced. Goes from the steering column down to a large terminal block. Its almost 2 feet long and looks like a huge wire harness with big black connectors on each end.

Here is what ive found.

Once and for all I figured out the real reason behind the DRL-DIC-Fan problem. From what Ive read at clubGP it got me looking in the right area, the ignition switch. So first a big THANKS goes to everyone who said that harness fixed their problem.

All of these things get power through the ignition switch, specifically the RUN terminal (when the key is in the 'RUN'position), which is an orange wire on the bottom of the switch. When the problem was occurring I was getting fluctuating voltage on the RUN terminal (measured with a multimeter), jumping anywhere from .5 to 10, but usually hanging around 1 or less. When it was working properly the voltage read normal battery voltage, 14 or so. When the problem was occurring and I jumped that terminal to an always hot terminal everything came on and worked perfectly. So great, it's something in the switch.

Being the curious type I took the switch apart, figuring at worst I'd have to buy a new one... Would you believe the problem is carbon buildup a little larger in size than a pinhead? It's actually kind of nifty how they made this switch. When you turn the ignition key it turns a spring loaded plastic shaft in the switch. On this shaft are 6 lobes sort of like a camshaft, though not as tall. Each lobe has a rocker-shaped piece of metal spring loaded to rest on the lobe. As the shaft is turned when you turn the key it causes the various rockers to move out due to the lobes and make connections with terminals laid out by either side of the shaft. So, turn the key to RUN and the shaft turns moving the rocker out to make connection with the RUN terminal.

The beauty of this mechanism is how it can turn on or off certain terminals depending on how far the key is turned. An example of this is when you turn the key from RUN to START. The lights and fan go off because the RUN rocker is coming back down off the other side of the lobe as the START rocker goes up and makes its connection to send voltage to the starter relay.

It is this on-off-on action of the RUN rocker every time you start the car that I believe causes the problem. At the point where the rocker makes the connection to the terminal some arcing is taking place due to the volts and amps being drawn, causing a carbon buildup at that point. The more carbon that gets built up the worse the connection gets. Since the fan draws its voltage through this terminal more arcing is taking place if the fan is running when you turn the key. As a result there is more carbon buildup as compared to the other rockers that had very little or none at all since they do not have such high voltage/high amp devices to feed. I cleaned off the carbon with a soft wire brush and juggled around the rockers so the relatively 'unused'ones found themselves switched with the 'overused'ones.

I have not had a problem since then. Since the fan is probably the biggest contributor to the arcing and resultant buildup I am making a point of it to have the fan off when I turn the car on or off. This should help keep this problem from coming back for a great while longer.

~Larry~

[grandprixjim]

So based on what you found is it the #26068757 to be the problem or is the problem in the ignition switch itself?? Is the ignition switch part of the part # shown?

Originally Posted by BIG-L

Sounds like the problem is with the ignition switch harness Part # 26068757 When your fan starts working intermittently on speeds 1-4, and eventually only works on the highest speed, this is the part that needs to be replaced. Goes from the steering column down to a large terminal block. Its almost 2 feet long and looks like a huge wire harness with big black connectors on each end.

Here is what ive found.

Once and for all I figured out the real reason behind the DRL-DIC-Fan problem. From what Ive read at clubGP it got me looking in the right area, the ignition switch. So first a big THANKS goes to everyone who said that harness fixed their problem.

All of these things get power through the ignition switch, specifically the RUN terminal (when the key is in the 'RUN'position), which is an orange wire on the bottom of the switch. When the problem was occurring I was getting fluctuating voltage on the RUN terminal (measured with a multimeter), jumping anywhere from .5 to 10, but usually hanging around 1 or less. When it was working properly the voltage read normal battery voltage, 14 or so. When the problem was occurring and I jumped that terminal to an always hot terminal everything came on and worked perfectly. So great, it's something in the switch.

Being the curious type I took the switch apart, figuring at worst I'd have to buy a new one... Would you believe the problem is carbon buildup a little larger in size than a pinhead? It's actually kind of nifty how they made this switch. When you turn the ignition key it turns a spring loaded plastic shaft in the switch. On this shaft are 6 lobes sort of like a camshaft, though not as tall. Each lobe has a rocker-shaped piece of metal spring loaded to rest on the lobe. As the shaft is turned when you turn the key it causes the various rockers to move out due to the lobes and make connections with terminals laid out by either side of the shaft. So, turn the key to RUN and the shaft turns moving the rocker out to make connection with the RUN terminal.

The beauty of this mechanism is how it can turn on or off certain terminals depending on how far the key is turned. An example of this is when you turn the key from RUN to START. The lights and fan go off because the RUN rocker is coming back down off the other side of the lobe as the START rocker goes up and makes its connection to send voltage to the starter relay.

It is this on-off-on action of the RUN rocker every time you start the car that I believe causes the problem. At the point where the rocker makes the connection to the terminal some arcing is taking place due to the volts and amps being drawn, causing a carbon buildup at that point. The more carbon that gets built up the worse the connection gets. Since the fan draws its voltage through this terminal more arcing is taking place if the fan is running when you turn the key. As a result there is more carbon buildup as compared to the other rockers that had very little or none at all since they do not have such high voltage/high amp devices to feed. I cleaned off the carbon with a soft wire brush and juggled around the rockers so the relatively 'unused'ones found themselves switched with the 'overused'ones.

I have not had a problem since then. Since the fan is probably the biggest contributor to the arcing and resultant buildup I am making a point of it to have the fan off when I turn the car on or off. This should help keep this problem from coming back for a great while longer.

~Larry~

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by grandprixjim

So based on what you found is it the #26068757 to be the problem or is the problem in the ignition switch itself?? Is the ignition switch part of the part # shown?

According to KustomKid54 (Jim), Big-L (Larry) has been off-line so he may not respond but hopefully he does. In the meantime, I'll do the best to help you. Here is a pic of the item in question: The proper part name is Switch-Ignition Starter. BTW - The key/tumbler is a separate unit and part number. The ignition switch on one end and the harness are one and the same.






Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

[BNaylor]

I forgot to mention the cost:

GM Suggested Retail: $118.00

From GMPARTSDIRECT.COM $60.00

Like Big-L suggested doesn't hurt to try to open it up and clean off any possible carbon on the contacts first. Good luck!

[Stetem]

I have a 99 Grand Prix
My problem is it has developed a drip from the blower motor when the air or heat is on
Any suggestions on how to fix or what my problem might be

[98GP_SE]

Hi all... im new to the forum and have had a look around and came up to this post..

my problem is this.. well actually i have many problems with my car, but i guess i shouldnt complain considering how much its been driven even before i bought it.. just to sum it up.. its a 1998 Grand Prix SE.. currently has 117,000 miles on it (had about 105K when purchased). back to the problem..

The winter the year i got this car the blower would at times make a whinning noise and if i switched it off and back on this would stop till your hit a rather large bump. now that summer is starting up i go to try the AC.. it works for a day or two.. then one day going down the road it starts whinning then shuts off (from 5 speed) so i turn it all the way off... turn back on.. speed 1 2 3 dont work.. 4 and 5 make the whinning noise but no air like it did before.. then next day no speeds work.. also, as i have seen on hear, i too have a leak problem sometimes when it rains, the passenger side gets flooded, just sometimes though. i do not know what the cause of this would be, whether the windshield isnt sealed correctly or the AC leaks... but i wondered if this might cuz problems with the blower motor? also i do not have the repair manual and am not sure if that is the blower motor directly under the dash on the pasangers side.

so to sum up.. my blower motor doesnt work anymore and i am wondering, if from my symptoms, is this the same problem.. or is my motor shot and needs to be replaced?

my thanks in advance

Matt

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by 98GP_SE

Hi all... im new to the forum and have had a look around and came up to this post..

my problem is this.. well actually i have many problems with my car, but i guess i shouldnt complain considering how much its been driven even before i bought it.. just to sum it up.. its a 1998 Grand Prix SE.. currently has 117,000 miles on it (had about 105K when purchased). back to the problem..

The winter the year i got this car the blower would at times make a whinning noise and if i switched it off and back on this would stop till your hit a rather large bump. now that summer is starting up i go to try the AC.. it works for a day or two.. then one day going down the road it starts whinning then shuts off (from 5 speed) so i turn it all the way off... turn back on.. speed 1 2 3 dont work.. 4 and 5 make the whinning noise but no air like it did before.. then next day no speeds work.. also, as i have seen on hear, i too have a leak problem sometimes when it rains, the passenger side gets flooded, just sometimes though. i do not know what the cause of this would be, whether the windshield isnt sealed correctly or the AC leaks... but i wondered if this might cuz problems with the blower motor? also i do not have the repair manual and am not sure if that is the blower motor directly under the dash on the pasangers side.

so to sum up.. my blower motor doesnt work anymore and i am wondering, if from my symptoms, is this the same problem.. or is my motor shot and needs to be replaced?

my thanks in advance

Matt

In your case it sounds like a problem with the blower motor. Its located under the dash on the passenger side. The best thing to do is remove the blower motor assembly for further inspection. Sounds like the bearings are gone. Once removed you should be able to spin the squirrel cage by hand and listen for noise or feel for binding. Plus for added measure replace the blower motor resistor. Good luck!






Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

[kustomkid54]

You know, I started to read this post, and thought, damn, BIG-L's back. Then I noticed that this post is a year old. What's up with this?
I still think we should get a "get your ass back" card and send it to Big-L. Lost Larry and John all at once. OK, who pissed them off?

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by kustomkid54

You know, I started to read this post, and thought, damn, BIG-L's back. Then I noticed that this post is a year old. What's up with this?
I still think we should get a "get your ass back" card and send it to Big-L. Lost Larry and John all at once. OK, who pissed them off?

lol. Maybe he's just taking a long vacation. Everyone needs a break. Looks like somebody resurrected the thing. It wasn't me.

In the meantime we'll use "Virtual Big-L".

Maybe you should send Officer Taz via email to him and put him in handcuffs and bring him back....lol.

BTW - Did he ever get his GTP fixed?







Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

[kustomkid54]

Originally Posted by bnaylor3400

lol. Maybe he's just taking a long vacation. Everyone needs a break. Looks like somebody resurrected the thing. It wasn't me.

In the meantime we'll use "Virtual Big-L".

Maybe you should send Officer Taz via email to him and put him in handcuffs and bring him back....lol.

BTW - Did he ever get his GTP fixed?







Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

His last email said it was still in body shop.
You know if you took my spoiler and changed wheels, your two cars would be twins,
And I could do the same thing. I'd just have to change rims, add two more doors, put GTP tags on it, oh and paint it red.
OK your's is easier.
Send Taz to him, see if it works.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by kustomkid54

His last email said it was still in body shop.
You know if you took my spoiler and changed wheels, your two cars would be twins,
And I could do the same thing. I'd just have to change rims, add two more doors, put GTP tags on it, oh and paint it red.
OK your's is easier.
Send Taz to him, see if it works.

I guess if you've seen one '97 GTP, you've seen em all. Mine's a 97.5 model and its the first red car I've ever bought in my life. My father used to tell me that only fags drive red cars. Oh well! Chicks like it so thats all that matters. Letting my oldest son drive it before he heads back to college. I better check out the condition of the back seat when he leaves.....lol.

BTW - My Honda's red too but there's no choice in the color scheme.




Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

[kustomkid54]

Originally Posted by bnaylor3400

I guess if you've seen one '97 GTP, you've seen em all. Mine's a 97.5 model and its the first red car I've ever bought in my life. My father used to tell me that only fags drive red cars. Oh well! Chicks like it so thats all that matters. Letting my oldest son drive it before he heads back to college. I better check out the condition of the back seat when he leaves.....lol.

BTW - My Honda's red too but there's no choice in the color scheme.




Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

This is the first one I owned. Lady thought she could drive thru it. She was wrong. Full size SUV, 55 MPH. People always want to know why I keep buying them. That's why. I lived. Oh notice, she never broke a window.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by kustomkid54

This is the first one I owned. Lady thought she could drive thru it. She was wrong. Full size SUV, 55 MPH. People always want to know why I keep buying them. That's why. I lived. Oh notice, she never broke a window.

Ouch!! What a shame! Do you still have it and is it repaired? You're fortunate it was a 4 door with the center pillar. I don't think a 2 door coupe would have done as well. Did you suffer any injuries?

They ought to make anyone driving SUVs take a special driving course before licensing or pay double insurance premiums. Most people don't know how to drive a SUV and don't see the light until a religious experience such as a rollover, etc.

One time I watched a lady try to park an H2 Hummer and it was sad. Plus she was on her cell phone at the same time.



Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

[kustomkid54]

Walked away from it. But was out of work for about 4 months. The car was dead. What really ticks me off? I let the insurance company take it like it was. I never took a thing from it.
But I did buy a 97 replacement that looked like it twin.