Major primer problem

[remingtonbox]

Our club meeting is in two weeks and I want to take the Bug that I am working on but this happened when I sprayed the primer:

First of all, what in the world happened and how do I fix it? I am using Rustoleum primer as the nearest "L"HS is 2½ hours away.

Secondly, I used 3-4 very light mist coats... and let it dry about 15-30 minutes between coats. Please help! This project is about to meet the business end of a sledge hammer!

I tried to strip it in DOT3... but the brake fluid didn't even touch it... is it a plastic problem?

As a last resort, does anyone have a body from the Gunze Sanyo kit that I can buy from them?

Thanks a million!!!!!

Remington

[hirofkd]

I'm not familiar with the brand, but it looks like a typical surface craze by a strong solvent in the primer. If the solvent is too strong, it doesn't matter how carefully you apply it.

Once it happens, striping the primer won't save the model because the plastic itself is already damaged. What you can do is to take a medium grit sand paper, and smooth the entire surface patiently. (Start with something like 1000 grit, and if that's not coarse enough, try 800 or even 600 grit.) Don't worry about losing minor surface details that you'll be able to fabricate later with a piece of plastic (like the door hinges). Once you see the body color again, you can restart with a primer that's known to be safe on styrene, like the Dupli-Color gray primer.

[blwnrtr93]

Try soaking the kit in Super Clean for 48 hrs and then scrubbing it off with an old toothbrush. If the plastic is crazed too badly after the primer is stripped then you may just have to buy another kit or spend hours and hours sanding it to get it back in nice shape.

[MidMazar]

I would stay away from rustoleum paint and primer. Like hiro stated, use dupli color as i used it in the past with no problems. Try 91% alcohol at your local drug store, if that doesn't work sanding is your only option. But if i was you i would start another kit.

[remingtonbox]

Well... It was suggested on another board to get some alcohol so I got some 90.5% alcohol just now... but it doesnt cover the bug in the container. I have a lid but does the item you are trying to strip have to be completely covered?

Thanks so so so so much for all the help. I would have bought some super clean but the nearest place that carries it is 30-45 minutes away.

I hope this works!

Remington

[MidMazar]

Originally Posted by remingtonbox

Well... It was suggested on another board to get some alcohol so I got some 90.5% alcohol just now... but it doesnt cover the bug in the container. I have a lid but does the item you are trying to strip have to be completely covered?

Thanks so so so so much for all the help. I would have bought some super clean but the nearest place that carries it is 30-45 minutes away.

I hope this works!

Remington

Well, if it doesn't cover it all, just strip the paint that it covers, then flip the car over so the other half is submerged. Either way i've noticed with alcohol you have to scrub the paint (primer) off. It won't take it off just by soaking it. Use a rag, or a soft wire bristle brush. Just make sure it won't destroy the model.

[Some_Kid]

Don't use Rustoleum anymore. Pretty sure that is enamel based, you should use Tamiya or Duplicolor next time.

[rsxse240]

Rust-oleum is designed to dissolve rust and turn it into primer, or at the very least stop the further spread of rust. Rustoleum is meant for use on METAL, the instructions indicate not to use it on plastic.

I'd use Krylon before I use rustoleum on plastic. But the best bet would be some duplicolor or tamiya if you can get it.

[remingtonbox]

I REPORT SUCCESS!!! The paint literally flaked off when I hit it with the toothbrush! This is awesome! I put it back in the oven cleaner bath, so it will soak when I am at work and then I will get the rest off.

All of the supposed crazing is gone. I will get pictures when I get off work!

Thanks a million!

Remington