For Pete's sake, don't go towards the light!!!

[Tinkerin_wit_tools]

The other evening, my SES light came on. (Service Engine Soon)
Of course, since she's my girl, I was worried, and went to the shop this morning to get an engine diagnostic. Was told it was my EGR valve, which is easier than changing out the oil in your car to replace. It is quite pricey and wanted to know how long I can wait to put one in before it gives me trouble and what issues it can cause. Low on funds, so please don't make the answer hurt too bad......
1994 Buick LeSabre
3.8ltr
BTW, another question to all out there with this car....
Before the shop, I wanted to save a few dollars and went to the local Autozone so they can hook up the computer to an OBD reader, but with either the I or II, both gave error messages. When consulting with his boss, he told me that the year that my car is was a test for a newer chip or something to that effect and that the reader I needed to get for it was a I 1/2. If this makes any sense to anyone out there, please let me know where I can get one of these so I won't have to shell out $100 each time I need to read a fault code from my car's computer.
Many thanks in advance........

[HotZ28]

We just discussed the scanners a few days ago; Click Here & Here
If you can not find the CP9150, get the CP9190. Check Ebay also!

Remove the EGR and clean it with carb cleaner & a brass brush under the pintel. After cleaning & drying out with an air hose, lubricate the pintel rod with PBblaster and let it soak for several hours. Pour excess out and reinstall EGR, then clear codes. It is very important to have a functional EGR, it cools the intake charge; otherwise the engine will run lean and detonate, which may cause major damage.

[Tinkerin_wit_tools]

I just want to take the time to thank you for all the helpful information. I did exactly what you said, and am still crossing my fingers, but I haven't seen the Engine Light come back on. It has only been one day, but so far, so good. When I did take off the valve, the pintle barely moved at all, it really was caked on nicely with carbon, inside and out. It was really tough for me to scrape off what was inside, even soaking it with carb cleaner, but I figured something out that you may want to recommend to others. I pulled out my dremmel and even though it had a wire brush, the hole was too small to insert it to get the inner carbon deposits, but was able to attach a small grinding stone and got ALOT of what was inside with it. I also am now a convert to the PB Blaster, since all those years of WD-40, I was amazed that the foaming action of the Blaster seemed to do so much more. Klean Screen gasket, then put everything back together, and haven't seen the light so far. Am unable to purchase the code reader, but thank you, will keep that name and number in my back pocket for when I am able to purchase one. Thank you again for the help, you saved me lots of money. I will just wait and see in case, but so far, looks like I don't have to have the fault cleared, unhooking the battery cables seemed to have done the trick!

[HotZ28]

Thanks for the detailed feedback and glad to here positive results. I would be concerned using a dremmel tool to grind the pintel, since the pintel end (tulip) and seat are like a valve seat in your head, they need to have a perfect match to seal when closed. You may be lucky and did not do any damage to the seat, I guess time will tell.