Car keeps dying with lots of codes.. I need help please

[Jag1980]

I hope I can find some help here. I posted this issue at many forum, and no one really knows or I get no responses at all about my problem..
Instead of posting a link to the other site, I will copy and past all the information that I have on my problem and things I have done. Everything listed is what I have wrote and responded to others with.

I stumbled upon this site a few hours ago and it looks like the place to be, I hope someone here can help.

Here's the info I got:

I have a 1998 [COLOR=orange! important][COLOR=orange! important]Hyundai [COLOR=orange! important]Elantra[/color][/color][/color] 1.8L with Automatic Transmission

I’m Using Code Reader Mac Tools ET50 (Launch CscannerIV)

Freeze Frame with no MIL Drove car then MIL come on with this code
P1600
Calculated Load 8.62%
S.T Fuel Trim B1 -82.81%
L.T Fuel Trim B1 -82.81%

Engine running with no MIL
Po713

Engine Codes Key on with MIL
P0310
Cylinder 10 Misfire Detected

P1700

P0710 (pd)
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit

P1B00 (pd)

My car is all stock. Been driving fine for months with no problems

My car died driving down the road with [COLOR=orange! important][COLOR=orange! important]engine [COLOR=orange! important]light[/color][/color][/color] on, tried 10 times to start the car but it failed to start.
15 Min's later the car started and no engine light, I was able to drive 5 miles and then it died again, engine light come on about 1 min or so before the car died, then failed to start..
I let the car sit 15 Min's and then the car started and I was able to drive it the rest of the way home with the engine light on (about 5 miles) I drove it a couple miles at 75 MPH as I was trying to get enough speed so if my car died again I could coast a good amount, and I had 2 more bridges to make it across, Car ran and shifted fine one this short trip.

Next day

I erased the codes
Car starts and I drove 50 feet and car died with engine light come back on, car started right up and drove it back wards 50 feet back to my driveway.
I checked the codes again and I am pulling all the codes that are mentioned above.

The fluid and filter is due for a change I'm sure, but I haven't got to it yet

Any suggestions on what I could go out to my car and check or test?

I really have no clue where to start.. The other codes I'm getting kinda throw me off a bit as to a area of interest.

All those different codes and the car dying could just be caused by Dirty old Trans fluid? Is there a safety switch that turns off the car if the transmission gets to hot or?

Last time the car died it was sitting for a day and has only been at idle for maybe 1 min, drove it 50 feet and it died with this code and could not start the car after 15 tries, some times it will start back up..
P1600
Calculated Load 8.62%
S.T Fuel Trim B1 -82.81%
L.T Fuel Trim B1 -82.81%

I went to the Dealership and bought 9 quarts of trans fluid at $7.50 per quart.

Hyundai said that they never change the filters, only a system flush. That might be ok if they are serviced on schedule, but when who knows the last time it was changed, it's probably a good idea to also change the filter correct?

If the Temp Sensor is bad, that will be around $55 to replace. Is there anyway to test or inspect this part? (Oil [COLOR=orange! important][COLOR=orange! important]Temperature [COLOR=orange! important]Sensor[/color][/color][/color]) Part #46386 22600

Coolant seems good, I'm sure it's due for a flush but it isn't bad.

Just for kicks, I disconnected the battery, reconnected and cleared the codes.
Checked for codes nothing.
Drove 100 feet freeze frame and nothing.
Let it warm up for about 1 min, drove 100 feet, car died freeze frame shows the same thing with same % for each as mentioned above, same [COLOR=orange! important][COLOR=orange! important]trouble [COLOR=orange! important]codes[/color][/color][/color].
I pulled the dip stick to see if the tranny fluid was warm, it was outside very cool temperature..
If it was over heating the sensor, the fluid should be too hot shouldn't it?
Or possibly the actual sensor itself has gone bad?

I was told by the dealership that this is a thing the car can do that is called “Limp Mode” This seems to be what the car does before it shuts off and sometimes when I give the car gas..


I have to drive my wife to work and back and to school and back, I really need this car fixed ASAP, can anyone please help. I’m on a budget as I already bought trans oil and a Code reader..

Also, when I sit in the car with the key on, each gear I move it to I can hear some kind of noise coming from the transmission, like a solenoid noise or something? I never noticed this before so I'm not sure if it's normal. The sound I recorded was next to the transmission when I was shifting threw the gears with only the key in the On position. The second half of the video is the sound of me trying to start the car.
Here's the Wav file
http://www.filexoom.com/showfile-9943/cimg6832.wav

Sorry for the crappy file hosting host.

[curtis73]

The first place I would honestly look is the throttle position sensor. It is about the only thing I can think of that would affect both the transmission and the fuel trims. The transmission uses it to determine the map of when to shift and how firmly to shift, then the shifting itself is determined by any one of these components:

• Fluid temperature sensor
• Pulse generator A (PG-A)
• Pulse generator B (PG-B)
• Shift control solenoid valve A (SCSV-A)
• Shift control solenoid valve B (SCSV-B)
• Pressure control solenoid valve (PCSV)
• Damper clutch control solenoid valve (DCCSV)
• Shift stage synchronizer
• Ignition pulse
• Throttle position sensor
• Transaxle range switch

I would also try something else. With the key on, see if that noise is the same while you have the accelerator floored, and then try the same thing with the TPS disconnected. That's not a scientific diagnosis, but if the sound changes or goes away, there's a good bet that its your problem.

Another thing you can do is simply test the TPS. Values should look like this:

Voltage to harness terminal 1 = 4.8-5.2v
test continuity to ground from terminal 2 = less than .5 ohms
Using your code scanner, test TPS voltage output. At idle it should be between 0.1 and 0.875v. At WOT it should be between 4.25 - 4.8v. If your scanner doesn't return voltage values (if it just gives percentages) then you can hook up the test voltage from term3 to ground with the key on, or test ohms between 1 and 3 for smooth operation.

Otherwise its a tough one. Keep us updated.