Foaming coolant, rust... etc.

[Red Sonja]

Hi, I have a '94 Geo Metro (1l, 3cyl). It has about 190K miles with ONLY oil and filter changes. As far as I know the timing belt is even original (i know, i know, i'm going to do it). The syncro's in first are going but the clutch still seems OK. I'm in the snow belt; the lower rocker panels are rusting out badly. I don't really care about the appearance (but i'm beginning to get water through the carpet) as I still get upper 40's mpg!!

Last week, I checked compressions across the cylinders and with a warm engine they were: 120,115,125psi dry... 140,140,140psi "wet". I know this is low but they are consistent and even wet they max at 140psi. There is still enough power to cruse the highway at 75 (which i don't much). I was thinking of a quickie valve job with the timing belt change.

However, just yesterday I noticed foam in the coolant. The coolant was mostly water because of a slow leak which i think is the water pump (also original, and all coolant hoses feel ok). Oh, the oil is clear and the level is neither up nor down. It doesn't leak (much) nor burn oil (i have always used Mobil-1 and changed every 3K or three months).

So, my question is three part. First is it worth doing a quick valve job (regrind, seals, guides) on this motor??. Second, where could the oil be getting into the coolant?? Has anyone tried to get a body shop to cut away the rusting rocker panels and weld in say galvanized steel sheet metal (exact shape and appearance isn't important)??

I am quite able to pull the head, do a front end tune (timing belt w/ idler pulley, water pump, front crank seal, valve cover gasket and seals) and even change the gear oil (maybe reseal the oil pan).

I really need this car to hold together for another year or two if i baby it. (I'm in chapter 7 right now.)

My friend expects to drive this car on a 2500 mile trip next week. I need answers quick!

Thanks,
Red Sonja

[Red Sonja]

Just a clarification; by "wet" compressions, i meant with a few drops of oil in that cylinder... So the compressions went up by 15 to 25psi, with the most being in cylinder #2.

The oil in the coolant may be the headgasket. I will just replace that and re-torque the head, when i do my timing belt;water pump. Anyone know the torque specs for the head-bolts. I will search this site also for that info.

I really need suggestions about the rust also.

Thanks again,
Red

[Johnny Mullet]

If you would like to see another 190K from that car, it's time for a rebuild. Get these parts...........

Head gasket kit
Timing belt
Timing belt tensioner
Water Pump
Piston Rings
3 Exhaust Valves

I posted a guide on the head job here.......
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=901427

When the head is off, the oil pan can be dropped and the pistons removed. Hone the cylinders, re-ring the pistons and put it all back together. You will then have a new Metro again and it will cost you less to rebuild the engine than to drive a truck or SUV for a month.

[idmetro]

Even before you dive into the motor rebuild you should take a look at your subframe; you say:

"Has anyone tried to get a body shop to cut away the rusting rocker panels and weld in say galvanized steel sheet metal (exact shape and appearance isn't important)??"

This leaves me to wonder what shape your underbody is in. It won't do you much good to rebuild the engine if the front suspension parts company with the rest of the car..... check out the threads on rust and how metros die. If you have rust issues in the frame you need to fix those first (IMHO).

good luck