Rebuild time! Best Place to Get a Rebuild Kit?

[metalbeast]

Just finished my clutch kit, flywheel & CV axle install on my 1993 Geo Metro a couple of weeks back. The car had other issues that I already knew about. Car misses at idle & drivning speed. Just put on new plugs, wires, cap & rotor, & O2 senson (all of this stuff was in bad shape to begin with). I did a compression check yesterday and saw the signs: These were dry readings.


#1 Cylinder-40 psi
#2 Cylinder-90 psi
#3 Cylinder-165 psi


At the very least it looks like I have some burnt valves. I have decided to go ahead and put new pistons, rings, rod bearings & gaskets on here in addition to sending the head to the machine shop.
I saw where some one had a rebuild kit from Parts Dinosaur. I went there and they had piston & ring kits as well as bearing kits but they did not have the gasket kits (head, intake, etc.) Anyone have an idea where to get the gasket kit cheap or the entire rebuild kit cheap? Thanks!

[DOCTORBILL]

When you get the Head Rebuild (if you aren't doing it yourself), the Head Shop
can obtain the entire Gasket Set CHEAP for you and should pass on the savings
to you.

ASK them!

The Head Shop that I used asked me first - so I accepted. The Gasket Set
thru them costed me about $50 - if I remember correctly.

Your valves are truly shot to hell!

You might think of having Stainless Steel Exhaust valves put in for about $25 extra at the Head Shop.

DoctorBill

[metalbeast]

Thanks for the info Doc! I found a complete gasket set (Head, intake, etc.) for about $50. I think I may go with the piston & ring set as well as rod bearing set from here.

http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/page17.html

You did not do your mains is that correct?

Gonna be doing the Metro in the driveway like I did the clutch kit , etc.



Garage has my other long term Z28 Resto in pieces




I'll be rotating between the two of them in the next couple of weeks.

[DOCTORBILL]

Replace the Head Bolts with new also!

Since you asked what I did.....................

If you have the patience to read thru my thread(s) on fixing my '93 Geo Metro
all with pictures taken as I did it, have a look at :

First Page of ..................."That's the end of my '93 Metro....."
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=611713

First Page of..................."NOT the end of my '93 metro...Life after death! RINGS"
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t613410.html

First Page of ..............."The Flight of the PHOENIX !"
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=645309

First Page of ..............”A way to Clean the Carbon out of the IM Passageways !”
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t622536.html

There are a lot of other nefarious threads that I interspersed in this Forum concerning
this and that....do a search of DoctorBill and they'll show up. Gas Tank replacement,
Front Wheel Bearing replacement, messing with the Throttle Body, the Injector, the Distributor,
door replacement after someone backed into me, etc etc.

I give everyone who comes on this Forum those links.

No - I did not replace my main bearings - didn't want to remove the engine block.

Just the Rings and Rod Bearings with block in place.

Nice looking Metro! Mine is a 2-Door '93.

Isn't 49 mpg nice?

DoctorBill

[metalbeast]

Originally Posted by DOCTORBILL

Replace the Head Bolts with new also!

Since you asked what I did.....................

If you have the patience to read thru my thread(s) on fixing my '93 Geo Metro
all with pictures taken as I did it, have a look at :

First Page of ..................."That's the end of my '93 Metro....."
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=611713

First Page of..................."NOT the end of my '93 metro...Life after death! RINGS"
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t613410.html

First Page of ..............."The Flight of the PHOENIX !"
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=645309

First Page of ..............”A way to Clean the Carbon out of the IM Passageways !”
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t622536.html

There are a lot of other nefarious threads that I interspersed in this Forum concerning
this and that....do a search of DoctorBill and they'll show up. Gas Tank replacement,
Front Wheel Bearing replacement, messing with the Throttle Body, the Injector, the Distributor,
door replacement after someone backed into me, etc etc.

I give everyone who comes on this Forum those links.

No - I did not replace my main bearings - didn't want to remove the engine block.

Just the Rings and Rod Bearings with block in place.

Nice looking Metro! Mine is a 2-Door '93.

Isn't 49 mpg nice?

DoctorBill

THanks Doc!


I drove a 91 Metro 2 door when I was in College in 1997. Yes 49 mpg is nice. Have not experienced it yet with this one because of the problems YET but I am excited about getting her back up & running

[GM Line Rat]

Going by the items you've allready listed as replaced......My says install a new water pump, timing belt and tensioner while you've got it apart. Another vote for new head bolts also on your rebuild! I Also ordered a complete rebuild kit from parts Dinosaur for my spare 1.0 3Cyl Metro engine in the Garage, But like you, I've got "Other Car Project's going now so I haven't started the rebuild yet.... . The current engine in my 94 Metro is still running great (Crosses Fingers).

[metalbeast]

I already had the timing belt & tensioner purchased so I will go ahead & do that too. I will be starting with the disassembly this week. I soaked the exhaust manifold bolts with Aerokroil yesterday & will probably do it again today. I used it alot when I did several LT1/LS1 F-body header installs in the past. Hope it works to loosen these. I just ordered the parts I could from Parts Dinosaur.

[DOCTORBILL]

If you have a Schucks (maybe called something else where you live) automotive
parts store in your area - I buy almost all my parts from them.

Go to -
http://www.partsamerica.com/default....FST7iAodyTfx0A

and find the part and print out the price - take it to the store!

The web price is almost always LESS than the store price and they have to honor the web price!

DoctorBill

[metalbeast]

Originally Posted by DOCTORBILL

If you have a Schucks (maybe called something else where you live) automotive
parts store in your area - I buy almost all my parts from them.

Go to -
http://www.partsamerica.com/default....FST7iAodyTfx0A

and find the part and print out the price - take it to the store!

The web price is almost always LESS than the store price and they have to honor the web price!

DoctorBill

I read through some of your threads and I saw Shucks & thought "Who the hell are they?" LOL No we don't have them around here. We only have Autozone, Advance, O'Reilys, Slacks & some local parts stores. I think I got everything I need right now. Gonna go to Autozone or Slacks & see if I can't rent a ridge reamer & hone tool today. Should have the head off tonight or tommorrow.

[GM Line Rat]

Originally Posted by DOCTORBILL

If you have a Schucks (maybe called something else where you live) automotive
parts store in your area - I buy almost all my parts from them.

Go to -
http://www.partsamerica.com/default....FST7iAodyTfx0A

and find the part and print out the price - take it to the store!

The web price is almost always LESS than the store price and they have to honor the web price!

DoctorBill

Originally Posted by metalbeast

I read through some of your threads and I saw Shucks & thought "Who the hell are they?" LOL No we don't have them around here. We only have Autozone, Advance, O'Reilys, Slacks & some local parts stores.

Schucks is the Same Co as Advanced Auto parts, their both part of the "Parts America" group. You should be able to get the same parts from both places.

http://www.partsamerica.com/

[leonbentz]

Yea, any of your local parts stores are good sources for buying rebuild kits. If anything is not right, then you can just drive down the street, instead of mailing the problems back. (at your expense) Buy locally and buy a quality brand.

Too many crooks work by mail.

If you have any machining done, be sure to check the reputation of the machine shop. Talk to people who have delt with them in the past.

If you plan on keeping the car for more than 5 years, then I suggest a complete remanufacture. After all, gas is over 4 bucks a gallon.

Just think of it as: "An alternative to buying a new car." Get a Life time warranty on your parts, whenever possible.

These are good cars. They're worth the expense of doing it right and doing a good job.

[metalbeast]

*Update*

Took the head off last night. Sure enough two burnt exhaust valves of the two cylinders that had low compression. The EGR port is COMPLETELY clogged. On a side note, I BROKE the cheap assed valve cover after I tapped it with a rubber hammer. Gotta get another one of those. Cylinders looked outstanding. More updates coming soon

[leonbentz]

The cylinder walls are what hold up the best in these engines. If you keep good oil in them, the bottom ends last forever. It seems that the top ends are lousey. Valves always burning and lifter troubles. They say the best oil to run is 10W-30 or lighter. Heavier oil tends to be the biggest culprit for the valves to go. If it gets real cold where you're at, then run 5W-20.

[metalbeast]

Originally Posted by leonbentz

The cylinder walls are what hold up the best in these engines. If you keep good oil in them, the bottom ends last forever. It seems that the top ends are lousey. Valves always burning and lifter troubles. They say the best oil to run is 10W-30 or lighter. Heavier oil tends to be the biggest culprit for the valves to go. If it gets real cold where you're at, then run 5W-20.

That seems to be the consensus from everyone here.

Took the pistons out yesterday. Bearings looked good. Pistons looked OK but I went ahead and bought new ones anyway. Parts come in on Monday. Gonna hone the cylinders tommorrow.

[DOCTORBILL]

When you are done honing the cylinder walls, Do Not use soapy water to clean
them out, as some suggest !

I did that and wherever ANY water is left it will corrode steel almost instantly.

Especially the surfaces of the crank shaft bearings!

Steel and Aluminum around water forms a battery and corrosion can occur instantaneously.
Oxidation-Reduction (ReDox) - trading electrons - the basis of Batteries and Galvanizing Sheet Metal.
Trust me.....(I forgot about that until it was too late!)

I'd use something like Kerosene or Paint Thinner if I were doing it again.

Buy one of those $1 plastic pump spray bottles at a Dollar Store - that way you can spray
or stream the Paint Thinner into areas hard to get at and wash grit and shavings away.
Let it drain onto the ground underneath - or a pan if you are an environmental nut...

Remember - you must remove any and all grit from the honing stones from the
inside of the Block.

Any slightest abrasive left in the block will eat the engine bearing surfaces as they
slide or rotate - from the inside out!

This goes for any dirt (dust) that lands on the open engine while you were working on it.

DoctorBill