Cutting side windows...

[racer93]

Here's a question I've never seen posted before and couldn't find with a search (maybe the wrong terms, but anyway...)--how does one cut out the side windows of a kit that has the windows all molded together? Would it be just like "opening" a door on a kit? Or, is there something more to it? I'm looking to do this on the Calsonic R34 Tamiya kit, fyi.

Thanks!

Daniel

[stevenoble]

Do yo mean so you can represent the window in the open position? If so I have had success in the past using a very fine toothed razor saw (Zona brand) to cut the window and then fine files and sandpapers to clean up the edges of the cut.

[racer93]

Yep, that's exactly what i mean. Would scriber blades (like scale race cars') do the trick? I just wasn't sure since it looks like it would be more difficult to do than a door or hood...

Thanks!

Daniel

[klutz_100]

photo etch saw blades are your best friend for this job but you can do it with almost any cutting tool I imagine if you are careful.

I have found that using Dymo labeling tape as a guide really helps in making a clean, straight job - it gives your cutter something to "lean" up against.

[racer93]

Thanks, klutz! I appreciate it!

[DerXL]

Just to add my 2 cents...

An SRC scriber will do just fine. Especially in combination with the Dymo tape tip from Klutz.
I've used an SRC scriber for parting the roof/front window part in a Tamiya XJ220 kit. Worked like a charm.

Good luck !

[rsxse240]

I just used the back of a new #11 blade when I cut out the glass on my J30/leopard. Had a bit more clean up to do than what that PE saw would have, I'm sure.

[kaho]

I used dymo tape along with blade, no PE. It took me a few hours to cut out 8 windows off the fujimi EVO8 kit. Make sure not to make a single scratch outside of what you want to cut off because fixing scratches on clear parts are time consuming and it will always leave distortions.
Personally I don't think any tamiya kit requires such a mod. I only did it once because the window pillars on the fuijimi kit was close to 2mm thick - very visible even if you look at the model from a meter away.