Montana /Lwr Intake Job

[Nivek1]

Just about to do this job..using OEM parts..as per info on Venture site...my question..I will be doing this in my garage no heat..yes I will be cold but whats more important is I don't want do go to all this trouble and have it to cold for the RTV to work correct...what RTV was used I would guess OEM stuff when u buy the gasket...

[rockwood84]

how cold you talking about?

[LMP]

I do not want to blow whistles but since you had said before:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=763631
"There is no heat at any setting, just cold air. Thermostat was changed and cooling system flushed and still no heat. Temperature runs between quarter and half."
Just in case these symptoms have returned, I need to point out that these are typical common blown head gasket symptoms. THe manifold gasket problem does not replace the original head gasket problem of these engines: it is just "in addition to".
Make compression tests, inject compressed air in cylinders from the spark plug holes (with pistn properly positioned so valves are closed) and look for bubbles exiting the radiator (filled up to the rim). All of this will be easier with the top removed anyway. YOu want to be sure you will not do this job twice.

[rockwood84]

nevik1, are you loosing any coolant? does it try to overheat? does the temp gauge fluctuate wildly[1/4 to 3/4 then back down]? if you not having these symptoms then it is either a clogged heater core or it could just be as simple as the air damper is stuck open. the damper is under the passenger side of the dash remove the cover. try flushing the heater core and see if water will go through it. if the damper is stuck open and you live up north and the temp is real cold then your trying to heat cold air.get down close to the damper and have the key on and cycle it between cold and hot on the heater control and listen for the damper to move.if you don't hear it cycle then check around to see if something is broke or loose.

[Nivek1]

Originally Posted by rockwood84

nevik1, are you loosing any coolant? does it try to overheat? does the temp gauge fluctuate wildly[1/4 to 3/4 then back down]? if you not having these symptoms then it is either a clogged heater core or it could just be as simple as the air damper is stuck open. the damper is under the passenger side of the dash remove the cover. try flushing the heater core and see if water will go through it. if the damper is stuck open and you live up north and the temp is real cold then your trying to heat cold air.get down close to the damper and have the key on and cycle it between cold and hot on the heater control and listen for the damper to move.if you don't hear it cycle then check around to see if something is broke or loose.

Hi guys thanks for reply...I think my thread is mixed...I have no temp. problems with the vehicle...temp is steady no wild flucution ...just pretty sure I need to do LIM gaskets ..as yes I have lost some coolant ( can smell it when I shut the van off and walk past) ...but my question is that I will do this job in my garage that is below room temp...and your are using RTV on the ends of the intake ..correct..the RT part being room temperture ,.I just want to make sure this stuff will set proberly ...or am I old school thinking

[rockwood84]

are you sure it is not a heater hose leaking as these are close together[back to the left of the brake booster]and can rub together and leak ,also you do smell coolant when this happens.if you find one with a hole rubbed in it ,don't go to the dealer as they want $210.00 for a quick connect and 8" of hose.you can cut the factory crimp off the quick-connect and use a #10 hose clamp with a piece of 5/8 heater hose. just take a pair of snips and peel the outside of the crimp off.then pull the old hose off.if your worried about heat for the rtv use a 500 watt work light as they do throw out some heat and if its real cold use two lights and you can probably take your coat off. just don't get the lights too close to anything as they will melt plastic. good luck.

[rkvons]

Hi,
I did this job last september. So far so good. I used Permatex Ultra Grey Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker for what you are talking about. I am reading the tube of it and I don't see anything about a temperature range for its use. It just says it cures in 24 hours. I would imagine that if you kept it inside until it was to be put on, had a heat source like the light someone suggested and got it on and bolted down kinda quickly, it should be just fine. The silicone doesn't know what temperature it is. It might even be beter because it won't cure too quickly. Just be systematic about it. The manifold has to come down vertically and be lined up. You can't be sliding it around trying to locate the right spot. Two people, one at each end is how I did it. Also, remember to lift up about 3/8 inch of the gasket at four locations at the ends of the beads of silicone and put a little under it and on top of it. This will ensure a good transition from pure silicone to pure gasket.

[rockwood84]

i think thats where most people mess up at they don't mate the rtv with the gaskets at the four corners .and be sure to torque the vertical bolts first then the horizontal ones or your never gonna get the vertical ones to torque correct.and she will leak.

[Nivek1]

I am getting mixed answers for proper specs...on the lower intake of course.anybody have a quick link...I will purchase the LI gasket from G.M. the updated comes with bolts just over 100.00 ..does this sound about right...

[rockwood84]

the old style gasket set which had intake and head gaskets ,no bolts was $53.00 .the updated gaskets are supposed to have metal in them. as to make them stronger than the old ones which were plastic with some silicon in them. i used my old bolts for the intakes.but used new head bolts.i they want $ 100.00 for gasket set and bolts from dealer about right. but other places sell the updated gasket set too. not only the dealer, which is usually higher.the bolts from the dealer are probably costing $5.00 apiece as part of the kit.as for the torque two or three of the bolts are hard to get torqued right as you can't get on them .and have to use a wrench or wrench head with the hole for the extension .ask the parts man at the dealer what torque specs g.m. is recommending he should have them.

[wafrederick]

You do not have to go to the dealer anymore for the intake bolts,Dorman products sells the kit with new intake bolts and I seen this at a Carquest customer trade show while back.The intake gaskets are made out metal and cheaper than Fel Pro,about $60.00 for the kit.You might want invest in this tool,a GM engine moving forward tool and it is worth it,unbolt the exhaust from the exhaust manifold for more room.Lisle does make it,all you do is remove the struts which used to be called dogbones and put this tool in it's place using a 9/16" deepwell socket with a ratchet for this tool.

['97ventureowner]

Originally Posted by wafrederick

You do not have to go to the dealer anymore for the intake bolts,Dorman products sells the kit with new intake bolts and I seen this at a Carquest customer trade show while back.The intake gaskets are made out metal and cheaper than Fel Pro,about $60.00 for the kit.

The Fel Pro LIM kits may be more expensive than the GM ones but they don't appear to have the repetitive failures that the revised GM gaskets are experiencing , so it might be worth it to pay a little extra and not have to do the job again in a couple of years.

[wafrederick]

It saves time going to the dealer for the intake bolts and Dorman is very smart about this including the intake bolts.It even comes with the oil pump drive o ring which is a very common oil leak.I don't even torque the intake bolts,run them down with a 3/8" impact easily and hand tighten.The problem with torqueing them is most people overtorque them and do the job over again.I know one Carquest parts store that gets this all the time and I know the owner of this Carquest parts store too.The other failure is most do not clean the gasket surface very well and the gasket areas have be cleaned very well.

[Nivek1]

Originally Posted by wafrederick

You do not have to go to the dealer anymore for the intake bolts,Dorman products sells the kit with new intake bolts and I seen this at a Carquest customer trade show while back.The intake gaskets are made out metal and cheaper than Fel Pro,about $60.00 for the kit.You might want invest in this tool,a GM engine moving forward tool and it is worth it,unbolt the exhaust from the exhaust manifold for more room.Lisle does make it,all you do is remove the struts which used to be called dogbones and put this tool in it's place using a 9/16" deepwell socket with a ratchet for this tool.

is this tool a requirement of the job or can u get away without..can the engine come froward that much...do u have part #

[rkvons]

The tool is not required. Just pull out the two dog bones and roll the engine foward. If the vehicle is in park, you can have a couple guys push the whole vehicle forward while you are in front watching the engine. When it is forward enough, chock the wheels. If the vehicle is aiming downhill, the engine will roll forward as soon as the dog bones are removed, so watch out.