Sub-Frame Replacement

[way]

I was reading this thread:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=653982

And I sort of have a similar problem.

I have a 91 Ciera with the 2.5L automatic that the k-frame rotted out on the front passenger side. I have located one at a j/y. I also have to replace the TCC solenoid and I was wondering how to combine the two jobs? Will I be able to reach the solenoid with the frame dropped?

The car has 120K miles on it and gets about 35 mpg. The body is otherwise in good shape so hopefully it's worth the effort to keep it running.

Thanks
________

[xeroinfinity]

You should be able to replace the TCC with out even dropping th esubframe on these models.

Heres a link that should help with the TCC.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity.../aa011703b.htm

Hope that helps!

[way]

Thanks for the link!

I'm not sure that I can because the trans support is like a 3 armed cage and I'm not sure I have enough room to get in there. There's enough room that I could probably take the case off the trans but whether I can get my hand in there is hard to say. Here's a diagram of the supports:

http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/wayjamus/?action=view&current=DC1076.gif



I'm guessing if I have the engine/trans supported I could take that support off and get it done since I apparently would have to lower the frame anyway. opcorn:

[way]

I've now got the K-frame and will be starting probably next weekend.

Is there anyone here who's done this? Any advice, hints?

[way]

UPDATE:

I finally got around to doing this. Apparently I'm in a class by myself.

The frame is off the car now and as I feared, the "might as wells" are piling up. Timing cover had a hole from rust, had to replace it. The belt tensioner was pretty beat up so might as well replace it. Same with the oil pan. Same with the brake lines. Same with the trans valve body cover and the lines.

The rear main seal is apparently leaking too and since I'm at this stage, separating the engine and trans is not that big a deal.

Anyone know if I need the special tool to install the seal or can I use a block of wood or something similar?

[maxwedge]

After the flywheel is off the rear seal can just be pryed out of it's retainer, reinstalling is another issue, there is a special tool for this, you may be able to make something up out of a large piece of pcv or iron pipe as you see the required process and dimensions once it is out.

[way]

Thanks max

So I basically just need to make up a seal driver? Seemed like a real fancy tool just to put a seal in lol

I've got the motor and trans hanging by the lifting loops. I'm thinking it's easier to raise the motor than it would be to lower the trans since the axles are still attached.

If you live in the rust belt, a word of advice: Move, while you still can!

[maxwedge]

Upstate NY, are you kidding all we do in my shop is fuel lines, brake lines and gas tanks, all from rust. Correct, the removal is easy, getting the new seal back over the rear crank journal is the key part of the job. Lube the seal first of course.

[way]

Hahaha! Oh man. Well I guess it keeps you in business. I just hate doing this stuff flat on my back. At least I've got a garage with a cement floor but it still sucks. LOL