Batterie wont charge-very complicated

[jon_tstc2000]

I have a 1994 chevy 1 ton dually and it has been converted from a 6.5 turbo desil to a 5.7 350. We changed the wiring harness and all. truck starts and runs with no problem exept the batterie will not charge. i put a new batterie and new altinator in it still no charge. i have come to the conclusion that the gauges is what the problem is. the gauges are out of a erlier truck. the brown wire that comes from the gauges to the altinator has no power at all. the power wire going to the gauges is hot but coming out to the altinator its no good. i bought some gauges that are for a 94 350 but the plugs are different. and i have been chasing problems for over a month now. can anyone help me???

[jon_tstc2000]

no one know anything to help me?

[vgames33]

If the wire to the charge warning lamp in the gauge cluster has no power, the voltage regulator will not function.

[vgames33]

If the wire to the charge warning lamp in the gauge cluster has no power, the voltage regulator will not function. As far as wire colors, I can't really help you.

Sorry for the double post. My computer doesn't like the quick reply button.

[jon_tstc2000]

the volt meter is reading a lil of 10 volts but i belie the brown wire going out of the gauges to the altinator has a short in it. i made a jump wire today from the wire going into the cluster to the wire going out and then tested it at the altinator and stll had no power so i belive the ire is cut or streched or shorted out.

Thanks though

[vgames33]

If I get a chance, I'll pull up the gauge schematic for the diesel and 350 while I'm at school tomorrow. Maybe it'l help you if you decide to use the 350 gauges.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by vgames33

If the wire to the charge warning lamp in the gauge cluster has no power, the voltage regulator will not function.

the small wire on the back of the alternator must have voltage to it ... if not the alternator will not generate any output...this comes from meter or charge lt from instrument panel...this is refered to the turn on input....check that the i.p. ind. fuse is good 10amp

[MobileMom]

Ok, as with most electrical problems, you really need to use a POE (process of elimination) to find the problem.

Here is a list of things to check:

*Make sure both of the cables on your battery terminal are tight and secure. You don't want any wiggle room, they need to be snug as you can go without breaking them.

*Check to make sure that your cables are clean, free of corrosion and free of calcium or any other build up. Get some battery cleaning spray and douse them in it, even if you are pretty sure they're clean.

*Take your voltage meter and make sure the battery is getting at least 12.5 volts when the car is off, and if you can jump it to get it running, it needs to get a strong 13.5 or better reading in volts.

*Next, check the connections on the alternator again. Make sure that your alternator has a good ground, and check the volts. The alternator should read the same amout of volts as the battery. 12.5 or 13.5 (hopefully 14)

*If your battery and alternator both have a strong connection to each other, and they are getting all the right voltage, than its time to check the ignition system.

You didnt say whether or not the truck turns over? If it does, your ignition system is most likely ok, but if the truck will not turn over, you need to find the ignition wire, which you can do by attaching a probe light and seeing if it gets a signal when you turn the key. Also, if it will not turn over, make sure it is fully in PARK. Those old chevy have whats called a Neutral Saftey Switch, which prevents the ignition switch from signaling the engine to turn over.

*If your truck turns over, than you can move on to the really fun part.. Searching for broken wires. I'm sure you have done most of this, but just make sure. Check all the harnesses and make sure they are not corroded, broken our melted.

*If all your wires are ok, you might want to check your timing. A timing light is the best way to do this. Even if it seems to be on correct timing, you could try to advance or retard it a little.

*You don't have a spark system, so theres no reason to check that....

*You could also check all your fuses in the truck

*Check to see that your alternator belt is newer and adjusted properly. If it is really old, or if it is not as tight as it needs to be, it will not recharge the battery.

*You can also double check that it is still not a battery or alternator problem by jumping the truck, then disconnecting the battery cables while it is running. If it keeps running for at least 5 minutes, your alternator is fine and you need to check your battery. If it dies instantly, you alternator is most likely a dud.

I have found in my experience, that even a brand new battery or alternator can go bad if you have jumped it more then three times in a week. They aren't made to do that all the time, and the more you jump them, the quicker you wear them out.

Make sure this "New" battery and alternator you are talking about, really are new. A battery or alternator that are 2 or 3 years old, are NOT new. Batteries only last about 3 years, and alternators might make it to 4 years.

Well, I hope this helps. I have found a useful troubleshooting website in my years in mechanics, check it out if you have the time:

http://www1.autozone.com/UseCase,S00...tInTheZone.htm

Or you can contact me if you want to:

http://www.myspace.com/acceleratedautomotive

Thanks!

[72chevelleOhio]

Originally Posted by MobileMom

*You don't have a spark system, so theres no reason to check that....

If it is really old, or if it is not as tight as it needs to be, it will not recharge the battery.

then disconnecting the battery cables while it is running. If it keeps running for at least 5 minutes,

Batteries only last about 3 years, and alternators might make it to 4 years.

1) He said this was converted to a 350....

2) Because its "really old" it won't charge??

3) Sounds like a good way to fry an ECM, PCM, TCM, VCU, ECU, and darn near any other "computer" a vehicle could have....(or used to have anyway)

4) You have got to tell me where you get your parts 'cuz I am NOT going there!

Just thought I would add my..

[J-Ri]

Yeah, no kidding. The battery in my truck is 8 years old and load tests 10.2v@350A (which is less than half the CCAs [900], but still darn good). That truck is an '86. Still has the original alternator, probably because I havn't fried it by disconnecting the battery while it's running.

I would check the big wire from the alternator to the battery +. If the field wire is bad, the alternator will overcharge, not undercharge. Higer voltage input tells the voltage regulator to lower the output. Lower input tells the regulator to increase output. If the field wire was bad, your battery would be boiling over.

Also, you said the guages might be the problem? Do you meant the battery eventually goes dead or the guage just doesn't read?

[hueroloco]

the 1994 5.7 and 6.5 have the same alternator circuits.

The big wire that goes directly to the battery positive terminal.

And a smaller brown wire. This wire comes from the 20 gauges fuse (it's pink and black), through the charge indicator lamp (changes to brown), and to the alternator. If you unplug it, it should have 12 volts there with the key on.

The gauge must be seperate because it's not in the charging wiring diagram. If your indicator lamp is burnt out, you won't get power to the alternator.

[MobileMom]

I will admit that there are risks with pulling the battery cables off with the car running, however, in my experience, and I have done this with more than 20 vehicles, it will do nothing more than tell you whether you have a bad alternator or a bad battery. I learned this trick from a mechanic with more than 50 years experience, and have seen it done by other long time mechanics.

Not to mention, Guys, just because you don't agree with my techniques, does not mean you need to start bashing my post. Just put up what you feel the dangers are, or what ever you feel would be better. This forum is to answer questions to the people who asked the question, not a forum to beat down other posts.

[curtis73]

He's right... they're all techniques that work regardless of whether or not you like them. Be nice, don't discredit. Discuss, don't degrade. Peace, not war, man.

[MobileMom]

thank you

[72chevelleOhio]

Originally Posted by curtis73

He's right... they're all techniques that work regardless of whether or not you like them. Be nice, don't discredit. Discuss, don't degrade. Peace, not war, man.

"He" is a she. It wasn't meant to be an insult, just a warning label.

I would like to discuss how "If it is really old" makes a difference in charging the battery. That why I followed that sentence with a ??????