Testors Aztec Vs. Iwata or Badger?

[Sixx]

I've read alot about the different brushes available but I really don't know the advantages over one or the other.

I've been using a Testors Aztec for the last year or so because I like the idea of only having to clean the tip between paints.

Though I recently noticed some hissing coming from the brush, similar to an air leak of some kind. The brush is still giving me nice smooth paint jobs though.

I'm shooting MCW basecoats and clearing with a urethane clear. I'm wondering if

1* the stronger paints are hard on the Testors brush or if they would be hard on every brush particularly an Iwata or Badger

2* are there any real advantages of using an Iwata or Badger as opposed to using a Testors

3* would I be able to "see" a difference is the paint job, like possibly it shoots the paints thinner etc?

[freakray]

Iwata and Badger have metal bodies, the Azcrap has a plastic body, the stronger paints are hard on plastic, they have no effect on the metal bodied airbrushes.

The Iwata and Badger airbrushes are far superior quality over Testors, you can't actually ever completely clean the Testors as you can't disassemble the needle/nozzle without risking damage.

The difference in the paint job is from the user and correctly thinning the paint. Even the worst user could get a crap paint job from the best airbrush. The thickness of paint it lays down comes down to technique, not the make of airbrush. You can get great results with the Azcrap when it's new, but as it gets older the paint jobs suffer - the ultimate spend has to do with the quality of the airbrush and its longevity, not the quality of user using it.

[Sixx]

good info! I noticed the brush actually making a hissing sound as if the paints are tearin' up the inside of the brush. I'm gonna check into either the Iwata or Badger! Maybe I can find a good brush on eBay for a decent dime!
thanks man!

[CFarias]

I've been using the same Aztec airbrush since they were introduced into the Testors ModelMaster line well over a decade ago and have had no problems at all with it. However I have experienced hissing when the tip is not screwed all the way. If this is not the problem also try some putting some beeswax on the threads to double check this is not the problem either.

Like you the I bought the Aztec for its ease of maintainability. The Aztecs are not made of plastic per se. They are made of a resin that is impervious to solvents. However, like other airbrushes, seals within the parts can become damaged as solvents "dry" them out. This may be the source of your hissing if you tend to keep the body in a bath of thinner for storage.

I too use the MCW line for my cars. They are good paints and I've seen no damage to my airbrush.

All this being said if you are convinced that buying another brand is your next move, then you should not be sorry by buying either the Badger or Iwata. I've used all the major brands, both single and dual, both external and internal, and, in my opinion, all will do an excellent job on models.

[matador88]

i cant imagine airbrush without teflon seal. and badger and also iwata have it

[freakray]

Originally Posted by CFarias

I've been using the same Aztec airbrush since they were introduced into the Testors ModelMaster line well over a decade ago and have had no problems at all with it. However I have experienced hissing when the tip is not screwed all the way. If this is not the problem also try some putting some beeswax on the threads to double check this is not the problem either.

Like you the I bought the Aztec for its ease of maintainability. The Aztecs are not made of plastic per se. They are made of a resin that is impervious to solvents. However, like other airbrushes, seals within the parts can become damaged as solvents "dry" them out. This may be the source of your hissing if you tend to keep the body in a bath of thinner for storage.

I too use the MCW line for my cars. They are good paints and I've seen no damage to my airbrush.

All this being said if you are convinced that buying another brand is your next move, then you should not be sorry by buying either the Badger or Iwata. I've used all the major brands, both single and dual, both external and internal, and, in my opinion, all will do an excellent job on models.

You either work for Testors or have lucked out.

I started out with Azcrap, the damn thing near fell to pieces once I switched to using the hotter paints like automotive and MCW lacquers.

[Sixx]

However I have experienced hissing when the tip is not screwed all the way. If this is not the problem also try some putting some beeswax on the threads to double check this is not the problem either.
I am going to try that to see if that's the problem, though I have to agree with the other guys as far as the hot paints possibly destroying the interior of the brush.
Have you heard any reviews or possibly own the Badger Sotar?

[CFarias]

Originally Posted by Sixx

I am going to try that to see if that's the problem, though I have to agree with the other guys as far as the hot paints possibly destroying the interior of the brush.
Have you heard any reviews or possibly own the Badger Sotar?

I've seen many hit or miss opinions on these airbrushes. As I said before you should have fine luck with any Badger, or Iwata, or Paasche for that matter.

Freakray does make the point that if the Aztek's body is damaged it can not be fixed as it is permanently sealed. This is a significant advantage for the other brands. However, if you do buy the other brands, be sure that there is a dealer in your area that has the accessories and parts to support you. If this is not the case find a good dealer on the internet. And, no, I don't work for Testors , but I did sell airbrushes for a number of years.

Sorry, I don't have any opinion on the Sotar, but if you follow this link you can find opinions on that and other airbrushes.

http://modelingmadness.com/others/fe...rushsurvey.htm

Of note, check out the two opinions on the Aztek A470, you'll see what I mean about the hit or miss attitude towards them.

I have not had much use for the dual action feature when I do my car models and occasionally when I do my aircraft models. The Sotar is a dual action, internal mix, which is the top of the line system for airbrushing. However, if a single action airbrush is all you need consider the Badger 200-20. It's great for models (It was my first and I never had problems), parts tend to be cheaper, and is up to 3 times less cost than the Sotar.

[freakray]

Unfortunately for Aztek/Modelmaster/Testors my attitude towards their airbrushes is derived from actually owning (2) A470's and having both fall apart on me over the course of a year.

[Sixx]

Originally Posted by freakray

Unfortunately for Aztek/Modelmaster/Testors my attitude towards their airbrushes is derived from actually owning (2) A470's and having both fall apart on me over the course of a year.

I'm hoping that is not the case here, though it seems to be! That Sucks!

[935k3]

I have 5 airbrushes. 3 Paasche(H,VL,VLST-PRO), 1 Badger(175) and 1 Iwata(Eclipse). They are all quality airbrushes and I use them for different stuff but my workhorse is the Badger 175 Crescendo. It has a very wide trigger range and stays very clean with just running thinner through it. I rarely take it apart. The Aztecs are toylike compared to these. Some of the Paasche have been the same design for 50 years because they are quality. Badger has a lifetime guarantee on the teflon seal and will replace it for free. Iwatas are considered some of the best by professionals. If search on Google you can find some reviews from users on diiferent airbrushes.

[CFarias]

Originally Posted by freakray

Unfortunately for Aztek/Modelmaster/Testors my attitude towards their airbrushes is derived from actually owning (2) A470's and having both fall apart on me over the course of a year.

My A470 works fine, but I'm sorry to hear how bad they've been for you.

[924_CarreraGTS]

I have some model of Aztec which I honestly can't identify because 1) all paperwork for it has vanished, 2) I got it years ago, 3) it has no case and 4) I can't find it online. It looks like an A320 but is double action. Whatever it is, it has worked fine spraying enamels and acrylics and lacquer thinner. However, since it is plastic and I'm sure will wear out soon, I am looking at a Badger 155...any thoughts on that model?

Alex

[proosen]

My advice to anyone that's going to buy an AB is to stay away from the Aztek.
Loved mine as long as it worked but over time it started to fill the body with paint and eventually it jammed causing it to break.
Got tired of sending it in for replacement as it kind of halted my building pace.

Took it apart myself and made a quick fix and replaced the broken part with a new one made from piano wire.

This is how it looks inside after some sessions, not to mention that it also colours my right hand as the paint leaks backwards into it and down my paw.




So my next one will be an Evolution silverline as I beleive it over time can be kept running much easier.



Niclas

[klutz_100]

I have to say that if you can afford it, get an Iwata. Not that the others are bad but simply the Iwatas are better IMO.

I have had/still have Iwatas, Badgers, Paasches, Azteks and Chinese pseudo-Iwatas. They all work, will all spray paint and as already mentioned - with practice and correct thinning - will deliver a good paint job.

However, when it comes to pleasure of use (the "feel in your hand" factor), ease of cleaning and quality of build, the Iwata range is in a class of its own.

I suppose the price difference between an Iwata and Badger is something in the 30$-50$ range? That's nothing at all when put in the context of your total spend on a modeling budget and considering how many years the airbrush will last you.

BTW I still have the Aztek and have stopped using it ONLY because my 2 Iwatas now completely cover all my airbrushing needs. When I was using it I liked it but found it a little temperamental at times. It is definitely hard wearing in terms of the plastics used but it ABSOLUTELY HATES BACKFLUSHING. Backflushing is the major cause of problems with this brush - it forces paint back into the body (as per Niclas' post) and if thinners gets into the body, it can melt the plastic tubing which is NOT made of the same kind of resistant materials as the rest of the body. The needles themselves are easily dismantled for cleaning and can be left soaking in thinners for years.

Any airbrush can deliver a good paint job but if youcan go to 100$ or so, get an Iwata (or two ).