B16 Performance Options

[crxlvr]

ok folks, im wanting to run an All-motor b16 in my crx for daily driven fun. now first off my car is an auto and has to stay that way for numerous reasons i wont get into. but anyway, i was wondering if i should build the HP in the motor first, or get a torque convertor to put my power to the ground. i was gonna buy new cams and pistons if i didnt get the TC, so what do you think i should do?

any help is appreciated.


also if anyone knows the approxiamte cost of a port and polish on a head, and a place in the NY area to do it, would be great.

[SiZ]

New cams on a B16 aren't going to do SHIT on an auto B16. They probably don't even make cams for an auto B16. Cams on B series VTEC motors are often used to make even more HP in even higher RPMS. You can't do that with an auto, so there isn't much point.
Where are you going to get an aftermarket torque converter for an auto B16?! I've only ever heard of like 2 or 3 guys ever swapping them. Pistons are pretty much a total waste too if you don't let your car breathe better with the basics. (intake, header, exhaust)

P&P - again... Not going to do shit unless you have a lot of other mods. B16s have very well designed heads (all hondas do) and there really isn't a lot to be benefited from cleaning them up with a P&P. Especially on a basically stock motor.. The more modified it is, the more gains will be realized, but on Honda motors (along with the chipped ECU) a port and polish should definatley be one of your last mods. All your modifcations need to work in unison.. You understand? Go with the basics first, there are reasons that everyone does the same mods in similar orders.. Check with NA guys on ClubSi and Honda-Tech..

Personally, my thing I would do if I HAD to go auto would be do all my mods for low RPM power. Actually, I'd probably only do an intake, exhaust, and a B18C, B18B, or B20 block. Get some torque and then your auto won't be such a turtle.

Why keep the auto though? Thats partailly why I bought the B16, IT COMES WITH A TRANNY.. So all you need is pedals and linkage and a shifter and other very minor things. 5 speed is SO much faster.. Seeing as how Hondas are small and don't make a lot of power their gearing is what makes them so much faster than other cars.. You need the short ratio trannys.. The 5,000rpm on the highway cruise. Its nessisary to pick up speed..

[crxlvr]

ok first i got all the basic mods done, intake, headers full exhuast, and denso plugs and 8mm wires, the auto needs to be kept cuz my mom sometimes needs to use my car and cant drive stick, so i have no choice, plus since she paid for most of the engine, she said that i either keep it auto and not convert.

i found many companies that offer torque convertors for the b16, Prodrive out of NY is the company i will use for that.

as far as changing the block goes, its outta the question, so i need to boost my HP other ways.

i figure run at least 10.5:1 comp or even 11:1 comp ratio using JE pistons with eagle rods, plus a mild set of Stage 1 crower or crane cams, with all springs and retainers and shit. there has to be a way to tune the engine so power wont be in rpms i cant reach. if i used a vtec controller along with an A/F controller, couldnt i just tune it to lower settings to use these enhancments?

[SiZ]

No. VTEC cams will make HP in high RPM. VTEC controllers don't do jack shit, lowering VTEC engagment has nothing to do with at what RPM the cams you bought make peak power.. Why would you put new valve springs and retainers if you're not going to raise the rev limit? You're not even going to be getting close to it with the slushbox.

Why no block swap? You got too many restrictions... If I were you and I needed a fast auto I'd go with the ZC and a little boost. B16 is a notoriously fast motor, but always in standard cars, and always making lots of HP above 8,000 rpm.. And they're only fast because of the short geared 5 speeds that come with them. =

[Marc-OS]

I say you build up the engine first, since the torque converter won't be a huge help until you get some huge HP. Although, I suggest going to http://www.levelten.com and checking out some of their tranny stuff, I haven't checked the prices, but they make good stuff.

[crxlvr]

so hows about this, on my DX tranny, if i left it in D3 for racing use, i could run the thing till redline 6500rpm then just upshift it into 4, just like a manual shifter, i just cant downshift it. so couldnt i just use regualr D4 when im cruising and run my fake manual d3-d4 setup during racing, then i could utilize the power of the new cams and shit, right?


as far as block swapping is conserned, i just dont have the money for that right now.

[SiZ]

Originally posted by crxlvr
as far as block swapping is conserned, i just dont have the money for that right now.

A GSR block can be picked up used for a hell of a lot cheaper than cams and an entire valve train and a torque converter and pistons.. Do you know how much money that shit costs? Damn.. Block swapping is like one of the cheapest options.. Thats why I'm gonna try and get a GSR block for my car, when you can find a good used one they only go for a couple hundred $ more than a header.. Still around 400 or so cheaper then cams alone.

If you haven't even done the swap yet then it would be even better time to do it because it would be even cheaper and easier. Just put off getting I/H/E and just swap the block and leave it stock at first, it will still make more HP than a B16 with intake/header/exhaust.

[MyFirst4G]

Hey scott, did you go to Full Throttle yet?

[crxlvr]

Originally posted by MyFirst4G
Hey scott, did you go to Full Throttle yet?

no not yet

and i already have the intake, headers and exhuast completed, as well as CTR cams, BPM retainers, ferrea valves, and titanium dual valve springs. i was just hoping to provide enough HP to beat my friends manual ZC

[crxlvr]

also, should i invest in AEM fuel rails, FPR's, and adjustable cam gears, i dont have access to a dyno, so tuning the gears would be a bitch, unless someone has optimal settings for it?

[sastanley]

I like the ZC option...cuz there are lots of ZC's that came with autos..but that won't help you with beating your friend's 5-speed ZC.

Can't you teach your mom to drive a stick? My GF has driven autos only for 20 years and her first husband couldn't teach her (mostly cuz he was an ass) but I have taught her to drive my car, and now she prefers driving my 91 DX Civic over her 90 Corolla LE with all the creature comforts cuz it is more fun. Wait til we get the ZC in and I'll never get to drive my car.

Even Mom's can learn new tricks..borrow your buddy's car and take mom down to the local Elementary School parking lot!!

[91civicDXdude]

AEM fuel rail is a very unnecessary. the stock fuel rail will support up to like 250 hp, its just for looks. OH, and buying a cam gear is only useful if 1. you have aftermarket cams and you need to degree them. 2. you have a dyno.

[crxlvr]

Originally posted by 91civicDXdude
AEM fuel rail is a very unnecessary. the stock fuel rail will support up to like 250 hp, its just for looks. OH, and buying a cam gear is only useful if 1. you have aftermarket cams and you need to degree them. 2. you have a dyno.

thats what i figured, i dont have access to any dyno, so i couldnt tune it anyway, but after some research maybe i will find a GSR or b20 block somehwere.