2001 Alero - Passlock - Antitheft?

[gen6eric]

First ... I must ask ... what am I doing wrong when I am logged in ... create a post, attempt to preview the post and get a message that tells me that I am not logged in ... and the text of my post has vanished when I try to go "back" to copy and paste it after the system recognizes me as being logged in?

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My daughter's 2001 Alero (AT V6 3.4L VIN E with 65,000 miles) appears to have fallen victim to the dreaded Passlock - Antitheft issues. She left it with us over the weekend so my husband could replace the front rotors and pads two days ago. The car ran fine after that ... until the next morning.

Yesterday morning it took about 6 tries before we could get it started. I don't see how it could be related, but that night was the coldest night we have had in our parts. It would crank, but not start, acting like it wasn't getting any fuel. Hours later, it started fine. Again ... hours after that it started fine ... until she drove it, parked and returned to her car. We finally had to have it towed home.

My husband says he can hear the fuel pump and has checked the pressure which appears to be fine. There are other things I can probably relay tomorrow, but he has given up for the night and has deserted me.

I do need to find out if the TechII scanner I have read about is different than the OBDII code reader we have (Innova 3100.) The Code Reader does not show any codes, and all available I/M modules were initially showing that the diagnostics had been run.

The last time we checked it (after the battery was low ... but not dead ... and he recharged it) the code reader only reflects that I/M M, F, & CC monitors have been run. C, EV, O, OH, and E are flashing, indicating that the data had been erased and these won't appear as having been run until the vehicle is driven again? He didn't erase the data and the battery didn't completely die, so we are at a loss as to why the usual monitors appear to be a blank slate.

The AllDataDIY Diagnostic System Check suggest that we "attempt to establish communication with the body control module (BCM) and the powertrain control module (PCM)" and check for DTCs. However, we can't find that our code reader is capable of specifying such "communication." I am assuming we need a more sophisticated (expensive) tool?

Edit ... I was able to successfully start the car three times today after waiting 10 minutes with the key in the ON position (SECURITY light flashing), turning the key to OFF, removing it for 10 seconds and reinserting it and trying to start it again. Now ... if I could just get beyond the fear that it is going to continually happen and eventually stop working altogether until what caused it in the first place is "fixed."

I called INNOVA and none of their tools communicate with the BCM (they only check the PCM) and O'reilly Auto Parts doesn't rent one that does. Is it possible that I might find someone who rents a more advanced tool, or are we stuck with going to a repair shop and asking them to run it?

Edit ... mileage typo

[gen6eric]

Now that we can start the car after getting the SECURITY light to go off, we have a new issue.

When we open the door to enter the vehicle, there is a continuous chime that starts before you actually enter the vehicle, and does not stop until you close the door.

When parking after driving and removing the key from the ignition, as soon as you open the door, the continuous chime begins again and does not stop until closing the door.

After the issues with not being able to start the car (SECURITY light continuously flashed until "relearning" process initiated) and it seeming to think that the key is still in the ignition, even when it is not, it seems that we need to replace the ignition lock cylinder and/or the ignition switch?

If both are not necessary, is it possible to tell at this point which one is needed?

[BNaylor]

The sensor for the chime is located in the ignition key lock cylinder and ignition switch assembly. So start there. Also, it could be wiring between the switch and body control module - BCM or the BCM module itself.

BTW - Your two posts have been merged together since the issue(s) appear to be similar and to cut down on confusion and/or redundant replies.

[gen6eric]

[quote=BNaylor]The sensor for the chime is located in the ignition key lock cylinder and ignition switch assembly. So start there. Also, it could be wiring between the switch and body control module - BCM or the BCM module itself.
Quote]

My husband recently had to replace the ignition key lock cylinder in a different vehicle and does not want to do it himself again.

Can a locksmith replace the key lock cylinder and ignition switch assembly? If so ... should it be less expensive than an auto repair facility?

When my husband did this, he fixed the new cylinder so that the old key would work. This time, we want new keys, as there has always been an intermittent problem getting the key to turn. (Car was purchased used several years ago.) We have to either keep removing the key and reinserting it ... or jiggle the gear shifter to get the key to turn. Is there anything additional that needs to be done if the keys are actually replaced as well?