Maintenance Time

[blazes9395]

Well, after having this truck for a few months, it looks like its time to get things straightened out before it gets worse (or colder).

I am replacing the upper/lower ball joints, installing new rotors, and pads(did pads about two months ago, but rotor craked and started eating the pad), idler are, pitman arm - the whole front end.

Now I remember someone mentioned there is a set-screw on the steering box, and I noticed a little sloppyness in the box alone, question is should I try the set-screw method, or just go ahead and throw in a new steering box.?
I want this thing to drive in as close to new as possible, thats why I am getting this all done.

I don't want to be even close to any car in the winter time, maybe an oil change or two, (if even that) and thats it.

[AJT1961]

Wow, seems like you were reading my exact thoughts a few weeks back. I just spent last weekend doing the exact same thing to my 2000 4wd Blazer (111,000 miles), except for the pitman and idler arm. I didn't feel any play whatsoever in them so I let them be. I also have a slight amount of play in my steering box but I didn't do anything about that. If you solve that problem with an adjustment, please post the details.

Oh, and by the way, if you have 4wd and think there is ANY chance you'll be needing to replace your CV halfshafts, now is really the time to do it.

[DINO55]

Blazes9395
I tried the set screw trick last year and it only seemed to make the steering wheel feel tighter, it did nothing to improve my sloppy steering at all. Heres a simple test for you to try, before you go replacing your $200 steering box. Start your truck, Set your steering wheel dead center, Roll down your drivers window, Stand outside your driver side door reaching through the open window, turn the steering wheel towards the left (very slowly) Keep your eyes on the tire, the instant you see the tire move left, STOP turning the wheel and note the position of the steering wheel, If you moved your steering wheel more then 1/4 to 1/2 inch and the tire did not move then it's time for your old steering box to go bye bye. I put a new steering box on my 98 blazer (83,000 miles) last year and I could'nt be happier with it. It's like a Brand new truck. It took less then two hours to do with the rite tools in my garage at home. (It took me two days to re-learn how to drive the truck)
Good Luck

[BlazerLT]

Rag joint is the problem, not the steering box.

There is a how to by Rlith in the tech section.

[blazes9395]

Originally Posted by DINO55

Blazes9395

(It took me two days to re-learn how to drive the truck)
Good Luck

Exactly what I want. I pulled the tires and stuff, currently working on the passenger ball joints. Once I have the ball joints and brakes done on it, I will turn my attention to the steering. I will check as per your description DINO, and see what results I get.

As for the rag joint LT, I had the previous owner replace it, as part of the deal, as it was sloppy when I went to buy the truck, he did it for me and I checked it and recieved a copy of the invoice. I still have the old part, and it wasn't that bad when I took a closer look at it anyways, so I kept it. the steering did improve, but still not good enough.

So I will see what happens and I'll let you guys know. As always, thanks for the help.

[Blue Bowtie]

FWIW, don't cheap out on the rotors - Especially the front ones. Many aftermarket cast Chinesium rotors are plain, gray iron castings. While they work, and likely fit correctly, they are not as heat resistant as the original rotors. Most of the OEM rotors on all but the lightests vehicles are veniltated, making the castings a bit thinner and more subject to heat damage. OEM rotors are generally cast of iron alloyed with nickel added as a stabilizer, and possibly some tin to aid wear resistance (actually adding some lubricity of the metal structure). Gray iron castings can easily warp or develop alternately hard and soft spots around the perimeter. You'll notice this as pedal pulsation on braking and perhaps even steering wheel and/or front end shudder in more severe instances.

If you are seeign two choices for rotors, and one is about three times the price of the other, the more expensive one may be worth invesigating. Most of those rotors are cast in the Canada or the U.S. of the proper alloy.

[ZL1power69]

don't buy rotors that are made in mexico. they just flake apart. get ones that are made in china or canada. they maybe a few bucks more but are worth it. i just replaced all my brakes on my 2000 for under $100 using china rotors and cheap FF pads.

[billibong]

I just bought a new set of rotors for the front of my truck. I went with the Bendix rotors - they are significantly more expensive (about 3X) but are made in the USA with a two year warranty.
The biggest problem with the Chinese rotors is that the castings can be flawed and they may end up with air pockets in the rotors. This leads to warping, cracks and possibly worse failures in the rotors as they heat up at different rates across the rotor itself.
It is definately better to pay the extra, it hurts but only a little bit at the beginning vs. a whole lot if you have a catastrophic failure of the breaking system while traveling at 60+ MPH.
Just my 2C.

[ZL1power69]

Originally Posted by billibong

It is definately better to pay the extra, it hurts but only a little bit at the beginning vs. a whole lot if you have a catastrophic failure of the breaking system while traveling at 60+ MPH.
Just my 2C.

agreed

[blazes9395]

I got the passenger side done, taking my time, and stuff. I don't need the truck for a few days, so I'll just go slow, clean everything up, and make sure everything is good.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I picked up TRW ball joints, Monroe pads( I don't know who makes these) they are lifetime warrenty, sold in Canadian Tire up here, suppose to be premium pads and I had a set before in my other truck and thay were alright, and I picked up a set of Benedix rotors, made in the U.S. Hopefully I get what I want after all this is done, a straight, tight, like new front end.

[BlazerLT]

I just inspected my monrowe pads and both of the inside pads have hairline cracked right down the center. Really weird, I am going to ride them out for the winter and get my moneys worth and trade them in for new ones.

They are a good pad and the stopping performance is excellent.