Question - urgent!

[klutz_100]

Quick question - urgent for reson's that I hope will be clear on Monday
Sorry, I ususally use the search function for things like this but just this once I'm taking a shortcut

What is the correct (?) sequence for applying heat staining on exhausts? I know you use red orange and blue clears but whiuch first and which is the "biggest" stain.

Apart from bends, where else does it appear on exhaust systems?

Multo thanks to anyone that can help me out here.

[Merkava]

MPWR should answer this one, but I can offer some answers:
Blue is for the hottest parts. Red, orange, yellow as you move away forom the heat source.

Check MPWR's F40 build here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...hlight=ferrari
Hope this helps!

[freakmech]

I could be wrong but i think blue would be the hottest areas like the middle of a bend or the end of a pipe and orange would feather out both sides of the blue or slight bends in a pipe.

[klutz_100]

Thnks guys!
So I put down a wideish band of the coolest colour first and then gradually build up ever narrower bands of the next hotter colours, yes?

[freakmech]

yes, but be sure to thin out the colors or it will be to bright and look fake. also let each color dry complete or you end up with a brown mess. remember, these are washes.

[klutz_100]

thanks Freakmech! Appreciate it much - I am going to steal this and store it away )

[Ferrari TR]

This is on the subtle side, sorta show car used.

Base is Metalizer buffing stainless, dark is airbrushed burnt metal, black washed to bring out the details with a little blue. Washes are plain old kiddie watercolors, with a tiny (and I do mean tiny) amount of dish soap added to kill the surface tension.

[SteveK2003]

http://tamiya.com/english/howto/bike1/tip1.htm

This is a pretty good tip from Tamiya. There are other good ones on that site as well.

[MPWR]

I usually tend to do two or three colors, depending on the size and complexity of the exhaust train.

1- Purpleish blue. The hottest color, use sparingly. Specificly, at the junctions to the engine block, and in the immediate vicinity of any bends. Bends cause the pipe walls to be exposed to the direct stream of the exhaust. The immediate area around the bend is heated by conduction from the area recieving the direct flow, so essentially the whole bend is heated. Tamiya clear blue and a touch of clear red. Do not use straight Tamiya clear blue, hot steel doesn't turn this color.

2- Brownish red. Next step down from blue, use slightly more liberally than blue. Use on the areas adjacent to blue, i.e. on either side of bends. If the exhaust train is compact or complicated, this is the color I skip. Mostly Tamiya clear red, with a touch of blue and orange. Colors straight out of the bottle are to be avoided, because they look straight out of the bottle.

3- Brownish orange. Everything else.

I apply everything over Tamiya metalic grey. If you want brand new pipes, it could be done over chrome, but I would first darken it a bit with clear smoke. Even the best quality stainless steel exhaust system will loose it's reflectivity in relatively short order, so chrome usually won't look right except for rare exeptions. Single use F1 engines might be an example.

Test spray all colors before applying them. I like to test on white index cards. And use the finest setting your airbrush will allow. Fortunately, clear colors don't tend to clog much.

After all colors are applied, I like to spray everything with clear flat. It cuts the unrealistic shine, and helps blend everything a bit. And don't forget to apply a wash afterwards.

Hope it helps.

[klutz_100]

Thanks MPWR
Everyone else, too

Darn, this all sounds bloody complicated we'll see what happens

Unfortunately my AB thinks a "fine line" is something you should use to separate lanes on the freeway
I suppose brushing this effect on will probably look worse than not doing it at all...

[Hiroboy]

This is done with heat not paints so you can see the correct colour banding.

[klutz_100]

Whoa! That's cool!
As the saying goes- "a picture is worth a 1000 words"