Who here has the HKS ETC??

[N/A]

Hi guys,
Who has currently the HKS ETC hooked up in their cars? ive got it with the Drag Controller but i still have not worked out what some of the options are.. on the ETC there is a Auto and Options mode.. do u know what its for? and with the Drag Controller, what setting am i suppose to have it on? when ive got the drag controller hooked up, it keeps in rear wheel mode.....

your input would be appreciated.

[R33]

I do. But no time to tell you about it now. Will post tomorrow. Watch this space!

[Shooter Boy]

HI Guys,

I am very interested in the ETC for our drag racing application. I have read that the Apex'i drag car used a manual adjustment, and they almost always biased it to the rear wheels for both speed and stability.

My question is, how effective do you think the ETC is, and how much did you pay for it. I have a large shipment coming from HKS Japan in 4 weeks, and would lke to add this to the order if it is worth the money.

Thanks - Kevin

[N/A]

Hi Kevin,

Ive had the ETC and Drag Controller for a year now, i mainly use it when driving tru the hills or racing.. not drag. With the Drag controller, i though it was designed for GTR's to be able to do a burnout to warm up the rear tyres.. im thinking i could be wrong.. (not sure) i have only used the Drag controller for when drifting or burnouts....

Ok back to the ETC. Designed where torque can be dialed in more at at front.. great great great when cornering hard and when ure GTR has alot more power.... the orginal 4wd designed simply cant react quick enough for when u are high up in the power levels...
Even with my wide (275x35x19) tyres, i simply will spin when accelerating hard.. i also use it on lauches for the same reason. I switch it back off as soon as i get traction as im losing power with the front dialed in...

However, remember that it is important not to use this constantly on as it will burn out/overheat the front clucth pack in the GTR. Something many people do not realise....

back to my query, what are the OPTIONS and AUTO mode for? Something i still havent checked out on... Someone out there who knows, please inform me... thnks

[Shooter Boy]

Thanks N/A,

We are swapping out the clutch pack to a triple plate, and will only be making 9-10 second runs, so heating the clutch pack shouldn't be a big problem. I was simply wondering how it performed with respect to straight line launches....

Thanks again.....

[N/A]

Hi Shooter,

yes straight line is very effective if u dial in a little more front torque but u have to switch it back off, which it will do instantly. However, im not sure if you are familiar with the way to drag a GTR,

Step 1: 8,000RPM
Step 2: Let the clucth out!
Step 3: Bang.. take off!!!
hehehehe....

If you want the best times, do this... with power similar to mine you should do same as me and run a 11.2-11.4?!? around there... i realise ure a lighter car so maybe slighly faster... but beaware of breaking the gearbox as i have done 2 in 10,000kms....

Hey btw, i think u might have mistaken my earlier comments, i was refering to the Cluch pack in the Front Torque Transfer Case as appose to the normal clutch... maybe u did mean the front ones... if this is the case, sounds serious!! Hope u run in the 10's!!! good luck

[Shooter Boy]

We are going to try to save the gearbox until this summer, when we will upgrade to either an HKS 6 spd, or go full out to the Hollinger Dogbox. THe problem with the Hollinger is the sanctioning bodies in the US are against sequential tranny's, we'll have to wait and see. In an effort to conserve the box, we will prolly not launch at 8K rpm's and will sacrifice the 60 ft times.

No I am, sorry, I thought you meant the clutch, not the front clutch pack, that is my bad.

We have also considered running only 2WD, and mouting a switch near the fuse box to disable the front wheels, but again, only testing will tell us this.

We are going full balls with respect to power, and the limiting factor will be the botton end and keeping the drivetrain together. With the electronics, T-51 Upgrade, FMIC/piping, fuel system, ignition, clutch, suspension, exhaust and drag radials, we are hoping to make a reliable 700 whp, and possibly run some single digit et's.

Only time will tell.

btw - still learning the ways of the GTR, have launched some pretty mean AWD Talons, but this is pretty different

[N/A]

man your fast with the replies
FYI: (you may already know this...)

HKS 6 Speed is made by Hollinger in Australia. both transmissions are the same exactly except for HKS Casing. On R32 GTR's even if u have a switch on the fuse, it will disable the front wheel drive but this will not reactivate when switched back as u need to restart the ignition for the ECU to kick back in.
Secondly, i think getting into the single digits will require around 900ps and above... well this is what the tuners here in Japan are doing...

btw: u will SOON know that there is no way u can launch a GTR in rear wheel!!!!! heheheh its crazy when its in 2wheel drive!!!!! but fun...

[Shooter Boy]

Fast with replies - hehe, yup, bored at work today.....

900 ps huh? I am assuming that is at the wheels? hmmm...well, pretty sure a stock block can't make that, maybe 10's will have to suffice until spring. When we can do a complete motor build.

No I did not know the HKS and the Hollinger were the same. Aren't the Hollinger's around 20K US? According to the research I have done, the HKS 6 Spd is only around 10K US? Do you have any idea what the reasoning is for the difference in $$? I thought it was due to manual vs sequential difference?

I was wondering about the fuse, if that would work or not...hmm...well, then we may have to rely on either the stock torque split or the ETC. Unfortunately the learning curve is steep with regards to building/drag racing the GTR in the US, as almost no one has done it. And JUN and Veilside are waayyyy to expensive. I talked to them, but they wanted numbers that we simply cannot afford.

The only reason I thought we could make it to single digits with 700 wheel HP is that the signal R33 was running 9.1's with what they claimed was 750 to the wheels last year.....of course, that is a magazine.....

[N/A]

yes HKS supplied by Hollinger.. Hollinger is about 1,700AUS so much cheper in US dollars.. not the amount u though of. when ever i quote a power fiqure it is always at the engine, especially hp fiqure. Signals 750 would have been over 1,100hp... engine power.. in fact all the Jap tuners run over 1,000hp these days...

and with the switch.. sorry man.. doesnt work.. gotta get the HKs items.. and dont do some back yard job of modifying the 4wd sensors....

actually i spoke to Veilside today!! hehe.. what a coincidence.. was rather helpful at times... If you need advise, good sound proven advice, let me know... im straight forward.. if i dont know it ill say i dont and also if im guessing... Oh yeah, stock bottom end i have been told by the tuners in japn.. (HKS, Veilside, JUN) is only capable of 700ps max b4 its danger zone... even so.. a decomp plate has to be fitted and tuining spot on...

.. i think my reply this time was faster than yours!! must be the higher boost im using... hahaa

[Shooter Boy]

Geez, you really did respond fast.

Well, we are planning the HKS metal head gasket to lower compression, and our tuners are very knowledgeable with Supra's and GTO's and have a 4wd dyno for tuning, with all sorts of cool features. So we will definately be running the ragged edge....They have a couple supras pushing 900-1000 HP at the wheels, plain bad ass.

We will not do any rigging with any sensors. If it hasn't been done by someone else, then we sure will not do it without proper knowledge. That is why the ETC sounds like a viable option.

As far as 1700 AUS - is that the full transmission upgrade? takakaira.com has the 6 spd HKS transmissions at 10K US. JUN USA also quoted me about 16K, but then again, they also quoted me a huge number for help also.....

[R33]

I have the ETC. Absolutely excellent. Probably the best mod I'd done to the car! I'd tested some variation on the track and for the Sepang F1 track, where I go every month, 30% torque in front works wonders. No understeer and none of that hairy power oversteer on coming out of corners. Without the ETC, I take corners like my grandma! With the ETC, it's sooooo good!
The option switch is for you to hook up the ETC to the Drag Controller. In this mode, you can program the front torque for launching, say, at 30 or 40% at the front. Than, using the Drag Controller, you can program at what speed you want the whole torque to revert to the rear, say, at 50kph. Using that configuration, a friend of mine, with 380 rwhp, did 4.2 second 0-100kph.
The auto mode is for driving in heavy rain or snowy conditions. Not for fast driving. But I find that pushing 30% to the front in the rain is better than using the Auto mode.
That's what I know about the stuffs.
BTW, N/A, did I read it corectly, you said the Hollinger is AUS $ 1700? Is it for the GTR? If so, that's mighty cheap. Where can I get one? I am in Malaysia.

[N/A]

Yeah around there anyway, however a few mods have to be done... i think changing the clucth system (from pull to push or vise versa).. might have change in price but should be around the mark.. Its a seq style like the HKS.

Btw, i would advise againts alwys having the ETC on!!

[Shooter Boy]

Originally posted by N/A
Yeah around there anyway, however a few mods have to be done... i think changing the clucth system (from pull to push or vise versa).. might have change in price but should be around the mark.. Its a seq style like the HKS.

Btw, i would advise againts alwys having the ETC on!!

Well, good news - I have an early GTR (1990) with the Push Style, could you please find out the price. If so, I would be more than willing (if you would do this) to have you purchase one for me, and send it to me.

I would of course, pay you for this service, as it would save me huge $$ compared to getting one in the US.....

[N/A]

I will check on the price again for you when u want to do it. If your a R32 no modification is required due to the push clutch. R33 uses pull style. Only other modification to do is to the crossmember as the original will not fit! Everything else bolts straight on... (ive been told) never actually fitted one!