can't get my 70 vw bug to idle

[Altimas]

..With the choke open.
I cleaned the carb with that aerosol crap, started it up and checked for leaks around the carb outside by spraying all long sides of the carb and no difference in idle speed. (good)
It runs fine with the choke open if you hit the gas- like snapping the throttle it revs nice and fast but will idle for maybe half a sec with choke open so its like it gets really really lean at idle

You guys got any tricks for me to try?

[Cat Fuzz]

Sounds like you just need to adjust the idle screw.

[Altimas]

Nope.
Maybe I should have said I've done the basics...
It's not a problem with the idle adjustment it's a problem with the car getting too much air and not enough fuel at idle.

I can get it to idle great with the choke slightly open but as as I slowly open it the idle drops and then gets rough and stalls.

[Cat Fuzz]

Ok, assuming you also played with the idle mixture screw, you probably need to take the carb apart, get a carb kit and clean it. Then adjust the float level according to the directions that come with the kit. Sounds like the idle circuit is restricted.

[Altimas]

Yep the idle mixture screw didn't do much at all at idle, I did see a change just above idle.
Is taking apart the carb a "fun" task.. i.e frustrating etc?

[curtis73]

Its quite possible you picked up a piece of dirt in the carb, or it just developed a vacuum leak.

When you say did the basics, did you check timing? Sounds to me like your timing is retarded

[Altimas]

No I havent
If it was timing how come I can have it idling perfect with the choke a bit open (when it's warm) and kill it by opening it more than half way?

[curtis73]

altering the timing has a huge effect on idle performance. Advancing the timing will raise idle and cause a lean condition. Retarding the timing will richen it up and drop the idle, until you go too far that the idle isn't stable, then it will stall.

The reason it sounds like it might be timing is because as soon as you open the throttles, its fine. When you open the throttles a little to keep it running, you're signalling the timing to advance.

Edit: You're entirely right... it could be a carb thing, but since they are entirely mechanical its doubtful that they all of a sudden went out of whack unless they developed a leak, a float started sticking (unlikely) or one of the bodies cracked. I say check the timing, then check all the boots for vacuum leaks (I'm assuming its the 1600), then I would rebuild the carbs.

[Altimas]

Originally Posted by curtis73

altering the timing has a huge effect on idle performance. Advancing the timing will raise idle and cause a lean condition. Retarding the timing will richen it up and drop the idle, until you go too far that the idle isn't stable, then it will stall.

The reason it sounds like it might be timing is because as soon as you open the throttles, its fine. When you open the throttles a little to keep it running, you're signalling the timing to advance.

Edit: You're entirely right... it could be a carb thing, but since they are entirely mechanical its doubtful that they all of a sudden went out of whack unless they developed a leak, a float started sticking (unlikely) or one of the bodies cracked. I say check the timing, then check all the boots for vacuum leaks (I'm assuming its the 1600), then I would rebuild the carbs.

Well at the same thottle plate position opening the choke makes it die.
Now I do know that if you run rich you don't need to start the fire as early, but since with the idle screw backed all the way out (fastest idle) it won't idle so there must be something wrong with the sob.

I'm not actually sure what engine it's got, only the case.
B5 case.. 1967~ vw bus case.. worse case VW ever build apparently
When I order my clutch cable and shift coupling/bushing/ quick shift kit , they have a wrench that's bent so I can get the screw in the back that holds the carb in.
It's impossible to get the rear screw out
I was gonna take the gen out but same problem.
Easiest car to work on my ass