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  #1  
Old 05-21-2002, 08:59 PM
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Gonna build a B18

I have desided on building a B18 over a year or so, and need sugetions on products to put in it.

I want a Streetable Pump gas fed (91octane) daily driver with about 250HP... that can be with boost or without.

I was thinking

B18B block, Stock B18B crank, JE pistons 8.5:1, Pitted Stock B18 Rods, Bullfrog head (or equivalent), with Drag III Turbo kit with 10-15lbs of boost.

Y1 or YS1 transmission, Centerforce clutch, Clutchmaster flywheel.
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  #2  
Old 05-22-2002, 07:50 PM
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maybe check out eagle rods as well. How much money are you gonna spend? If you want to go all out, you can get your block resleeved by GE. dont slack on the fuel for the turbo either. dont use the kits fmu/inline fuel pump. Go with hondata, intank fuel pump and larger injectors. this is far superior to the bandaid fuel management that comes with the kit. you might consider picking up an ls tranny instead of the shorter geared trannies you mentioned.(longer gears=more fun with a turbo )
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Old 05-22-2002, 09:30 PM
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I already have a walbro 255lt/h Fuel pump in the car now. I'm not going All out but going to have something nice.
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Old 05-22-2002, 11:04 PM
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I think 8.5:1 compression pistons are a little too low. I would run 9.0:1 compression. That should be fine on pump gas with a bit of boost as long as your fuel delivery system can handle the fuel demand.
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  #5  
Old 05-23-2002, 12:32 AM
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I would scrap the Y1 or YS1 idea if you want to run that much hp for any time though.
Especialy with the extra Torque from a Turbo. (which you will need on a B18a.)

Instead get hold of a J1 or similar from a delsol VTEC or GSR integra and use that. They are quite a bit stronger.

You can either convert your car to hydrolic clutch, or if you get a hold of a Y1 or S1 preferably a wrecked on (I know a wrecker here that has 3 J1s with blown diffs or internals) you can actualy fit the clutch fork to a modfied J1 bell housing, turning it from a hydrolic into a cable clutch.



And why spend all that money doing the internals on a B18awhen you could buy a B18c and with stock internals add some cams, valve springs and retianers, and piggy back ECU and be making 240ish hp.


and if your going to be running 10-15psi then I would stay with the 8.5:1 CR, its easier to add more boost if its to low, but very hard to lower it if its to high.
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Old 05-23-2002, 08:36 AM
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I wanna prove that one does not Need vtec to be fast.

I can get a B18 Block for 200$ a B18C are around 3000 for the longblock. pricewise the B18B with turbo and internal work is about 500 cheaper and about 40 more horse power.
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  #7  
Old 05-23-2002, 04:16 PM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally posted by Kunundrum
I wanna prove that one does not Need vtec to be fast.

I can get a B18 Block for 200$ a B18C are around 3000 for the longblock. pricewise the B18B with turbo and internal work is about 500 cheaper and about 40 more horse power.

I agree man, who needs stinkin vtec anyways
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Old 05-24-2002, 01:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kunundrum
I wanna prove that one does not Need vtec to be fast.

I can get a B18 Block for 200$ a B18C are around 3000 for the longblock. pricewise the B18B with turbo and internal work is about 500 cheaper and about 40 more horse power.

I totaly agree you dont need VTEC to be fast.

But its a hell of a lot easier if you get a VTEC based engine to start with.

The Crank is differnt and stronger, and the head and valves are also quite differnt, capable of flowing more and reving higher.

And like I said you can get 250hp from a well tuned and nateraly aspriated B18c for not much money if you do the work yourself.

However if your plan is to simply run dirty great amounts of boost then the B18b is a nice easy and cheap place to start.
Just dont execpt it be easy, remember although the parts are intialy cheaper, you still have to fit them, and do a fair degree of fabricating.
If your prepared to spend the time and engery, and pay people who know what thier doing then by all means a well build B18b is a good budget option.

But I still think your always better off starting with the best possible base you can find, and in this case its the B18c. Ok it might cost you a little more, but in the end you will have a stronger more reliable, and thanks to VTEC a much more street friendly engine.

(how many JG enginering 400+hp engines are based on a B18b?)
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Old 05-24-2002, 11:44 AM
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how much money are you looking at here? you can build a 240-260hp b16a for under $3000 and have vtec. i know you dont want vtec, but it is a nice thing to have. with the b16a you have the nicer r/s ratio, the extra money in your pocket for aftermarkets, and the vtec does give you better gains that without.

but with the b18b you do get a nice torque monster on your hands, which is fun too...

i have driven both a built up b18b and i drive a b16a everyday and they both have their special qualities. but i think the b16a was easier to work with. it has more options.


and i dont know if the stock b18b rods will hold 250hp.
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Old 05-24-2002, 06:04 PM
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dont listen to these vtec bastards, k-drum You and I will own them all
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  #11  
Old 05-24-2002, 09:16 PM
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the Stock B-series rods are quite stong. getting them pitted makes them more likely to hold at higher boost, but I will look into forged ones as well.

The way I see it is since I'm gonna Gut the block I might as well just buy a core.

ok JDM B18c = 3000 USD --- 178hp

for that price I can get

core block 160$
skunk2 intake manifold $286
skunk2 racing valve springs $239
skunk2 Valves $312
skunk2 ti retainors $143
RC 400cc injectors $338
Crower stage 2 cams $365
CROWER connecting rods $342
JE 11:1 pistons $352
-----------
total $2537.xx

yes I know this does not include machining and other stuff... however the B18B will be stonger than it's b18C brother... and have a shitload more HP even in N/A form.
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  #12  
Old 08-15-2002, 11:43 AM
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B18B warfare

B18 Brethren,


I also have a B18B and you and I are doing the same thing but
i'm going for 350 hp. And first it's not cheap. but if you're up too it it's hella rewarding in the end. it takes alot of parts but in the end it is a totally streetable killer. internals was the hardest part. i still haven't decided on what cams to use. high lift and duration, midrange or what? As far as pistons, Je are my favs. and 9.1 comp. are really good. Crower aslo has everything for your valve train at really good prices. And their Conrods can't be beat. and if you're really into it give darton sleeves a call. after all that you might think about JG edelbrock for their VictorX intake manifold and 65mm or 70 mm throttlebodies. slap on a new fuelrail, adjustable fuel regulator and filter from AEM and you'll almost be golden. Accel has the best fuel injectors in my opinion. 250 - 350 puonds an hour depending on what you need and they'll help you figure it out.
And the cherry on top is the AEM plug n play programable ECU. with all that and alot of tuning you can run Low 13's with some practice. you'll still need other miscellaneous stuff but that's the solid stuff from what i've learned. if ya wanna talk with me about it more just hit me up at my email. Good luck bro. And besides vtec is cool but until it kicks in it is just dead weight on your valve train so it has it's advantages and disadvantages.
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  #13  
Old 08-15-2002, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by threethirteen
how much money are you looking at here? you can build a 240-260hp b16a for under $3000 and have vtec. i know you dont want vtec, but it is a nice thing to have. with the b16a you have the nicer r/s ratio, the extra money in your pocket for aftermarkets, and the vtec does give you better gains that without.

but with the b18b you do get a nice torque monster on your hands, which is fun too...

i have driven both a built up b18b and i drive a b16a everyday and they both have their special qualities. but i think the b16a was easier to work with. it has more options.


and i dont know if the stock b18b rods will hold 250hp.
WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT!!!!?????? THERE IS NO WAY TO PUSH THAT MUCH POWER FROM A B16A WITH UNDER 3 GRAND!!!!!! THE SWAP ITSELF COSTS 4300K FOR ME! I GUESS IF THE ENGINE IS OUT OF THE CAR YOU COULD DO SOME MODS WITH THE GRAND LEFT OVER FROM BUYING THE COMPLETE ENGINE BUT WITH IT IN THE CAR?!!! YOU ARE NUTS!!!!!!!
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  #14  
Old 08-15-2002, 04:03 PM
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umm.. why are you guys replying to a thread that started in may? I never see EightOhOne anymore anyhow.

Oh well, maybe you guys are like me, scroll through back threads when you are bored
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Old 08-15-2002, 05:08 PM
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LMAO was it really? I saw it near the top so I thought id post a reply
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