Impressions - Micro-Mark Pro-Etch Photoetching Kit

[malsheem]

After many failed attempts at home photoetching using less than elegant techniques, I finally picked up Micro-Mark's Pro-Etch Photoetching system.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...oduct&ID=83123

Looks very good and very complete. Lots of stuff, and decent instructions. With the summer sale, at $99 (rather than $149), it seemed like a good deal.




I'll be using the long weekend to try things out. Need to create some designs to test it out. Will post some results later.

[white97ex]

awesome. seems like a good investment. can't wait to see the results

[D_LaMz]

Cool, hope you get good results.

[robrex]

Looks like fun!

[klutz_100]

VERY interested in the results of this.
Good luck!

[ImolaEK]

Originally Posted by robrex

Looks like fun!

Yup Good luck with everything

[nosliw2004]

can someone please tell me what photetching is? is it liek that metal transfer stuff used on tamiya cars? thanks

[blubaja]

Originally Posted by nosliw2004

can someone please tell me what photetching is? is it liek that metal transfer stuff used on tamiya cars? thanks

Yes, more or less.

Good deal you got there. How exactly does that kit work? Do you have to feed a sheet of metal through that little machine? Good luck!

[malsheem]

Metal transfers are more like stickers, not the same as photoetched parts. Photoetching is the process of creating small detail parts from sheets of metal by etching it with a corrosive liquid (etchant). An example of a P/E set ... http://www.hlj.com/product/S27FP2413

The process with this kit is ...
1. Design the artwork.
2. Print it on their clear film.
3. Laminating the photoresist to the metal to be etched (the machine you see is a laminating machine).
4. Put the laminated metal and clear film artwork between clear plexiglass.
5. Expose to sunlight (or 100-watt bulb).
6. Develop the photoresisted metal.
7. Etch the metal.

Seems complex, but I'm taking it step by step. No rushing. My test artwork is done. Since I'm working on a Fujimi Mercedes 190E 2.5 Evolution II, I made some mesh for openings up front, scripts for the rear, and some Mercedes logos for all around. I used CorelDraw 12 to create it.

[ImolaEK]

Originally Posted by malsheem

Metal transfers are more like stickers, not the same as photoetched parts. Photoetching is the process of creating small detail parts from sheets of metal by etching it with a corrosive liquid (etchant). An example of a P/E set ... http://www.hlj.com/product/S27FP2413

The process with this kit is ...
1. Design the artwork.
2. Print it on their clear film.
3. Laminating the photoresist to the metal to be etched (the machine you see is a laminating machine).
4. Put the laminated metal and clear film artwork between clear plexiglass.
5. Expose to sunlight (or 100-watt bulb).
6. Develop the photoresisted metal.
7. Etch the metal.

Seems complex, but I'm taking it step by step. No rushing. My test artwork is done. Since I'm working on a Fujimi Mercedes 190E 2.5 Evolution II, I made some mesh for openings up front, scripts for the rear, and some Mercedes logos for all around. I used CorelDraw 12 to create it.

Looks very well drawn! Good jOB!

[D_LaMz]

Nice job on the design, but how do you know that its the right scale?

[hks_kansei]

corel has the measurements on the page, so you can just measure the model, and make to the correct size in corel.

[Jaymes]

can't wait to see the results

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by malsheem

Looks excellent artwork!

Have a guestion though on the connecting bits (sprues?). I noticed that you have put them only on one of the sheets - is that on purpose because you want them to "back-etch" and be even thinner?

I'm just thinking out loud but with your triangualr shaped connectors which, by definition, will have a very minimal contact point with the main part, hence a back-etching effect may result in your parts disconnecting in the acid bath

Please take this post in the right way. I'm not trying to be smart or anything. I've NEVER etched anything I'm just think out loud based on some research reading I've done. If I'm wrong, good! If I'm right and it saves you some bother, also good.

Please share your results though

[malsheem]

Originally Posted by klutz_100

Looks excellent artwork!

Have a guestion though on the connecting bits (sprues?). I noticed that you have put them only on one of the sheets - is that on purpose because you want them to "back-etch" and be even thinner?

I'm just thinking out loud but with your triangualr shaped connectors which, by definition, will have a very minimal contact point with the main part, hence a back-etching effect may result in your parts disconnecting in the acid bath

Please take this post in the right way. I'm not trying to be smart or anything. I've NEVER etched anything I'm just think out loud based on some research reading I've done. If I'm wrong, good! If I'm right and it saves you some bother, also good.

Please share your results though

Having an image on only one of the pic will cause it to etch only halfway through, which is good for cutting points and making etched nameplates.

Yes, I, too, am concerned with the thin contact points. This kit can etch as small as a 1/2 point or .007" (approx 1/16"). Nothing is smaller than a 1/2 point, but I still worry. They look very tiny to me, but that's what experimenting is all about. If they fall off, I redo it thicker. After a few times, I'll know the limitations.

I might redo them before I print tonight. Been sidetracked. Sucks getting sick over a holiday weekend.