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| WIP - Street Post topics for any "Works In Progress" street vehicles projects in this sub-forum. |
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#1
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WIP: 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”
In the words of Monty Python…and now for something different…..my 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”.
Originally this was meant to be a OOB build with detailed engine but while searching the web for reference material for my Tamiya 2CV kit I came across this picture and it for me it kind of summed up this wonderful and iconic little car. It seems that there are hardly any factory fitted 2CVs left in the world! All of them have been cut up, rebuilt, repainted and driven all over the world by their infatuated owners I came across pictures of 2CVs on top of the Himalayas, in the middle of the Sahara and on the race track!I just had to try and recreate this “essence of 2CV”. Since it’s my first venture into kit modification – I wasn’t sure whether or not to post a thread on this because I’d say there’s a greater than 50/50 chance that it’ll bomb but…… My goal: ![]() I will be trying to scratch build the ingenious suspension system as well as the older style frame seats you can see in the photo and of course the roll bar. Starting point: ![]() I decided that I will first make the new parts before I start cutting things off the kit and destroying it. First the suspension using aluminum tube, steel rod and lolly pop stick cut into slices. Here are the components and a dry fit test: ![]() ![]() Next I made a making tape template of various panels and transferred it to drawing paper fixed to foam board. Nails are used to help shape the brass rod into basic shape: ![]() I want to make the roll bar removable so this is my strategy for fixing it to the body using larger diameter tube (front and rear): ![]() ![]() First test fit. Not too happy with the scale of the roll bar frame. I think I will need to make it again with thinner tube/rod. Also soldering is harder than I thought it would be!! ![]() Time to burn my bridges . Off come the doors and boot flap. I’ve decided to leave the rear window a) so I have somewhere to fix the roll top roof and b) removing this would mean putty work beyond my skills – this way everything is removed along existing panel lines. I used styrene girder for the upright stays in the door frame.![]() Since I was cutting things off, I decided to try and make “working” sun visors. They were cut off, a hinge made out of bent wire and drilled out styrene rod will be fixed to the body to provide a pivoting point. ![]() I did a test drive using masking tape and it works!!!!!! Hurrah ![]() Comments/ideas/suggestions and motivation gratefully received. Thanks for looking!
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Guideline for happy modeling: Practice on scrap. Always try something new. Less is more. "I have a plan so cunning, you could put a tail on it and call it a weasel" - Edmund Blackadder |
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#2
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Re: WIP: 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”
WoW!!!! I don't have any suggestions. Kill that french car! Good luck with this....looks really funky. Is that a steering rack in the 4th pic?
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#3
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Re: WIP: 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”
lol... this is different...
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#4
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Hi Steven,
wow, a tremendous project !!!!!!!! I agree with you that the tube of the outer cage are a little bit oversized. Further- compared to the 1:1 car, the cage should be closer to the body. Great with the nails to bend the rods !!!!!!!!!!!!
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Micha ![]()
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#5
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Re: WIP: 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”
the trick to soldering brass rod (or any metal, besides aluminum) is heat. you must get that brass really super hot then let IT melt the solder, not the soldering iron. and remember to use some soldering rosin, it helps to flow the solder onto the surface you are joining. and it just takes a VERY little rosin (a slight film, if you will)
here is how I do it 1) after your desired shape is achieved, clean the brass with whatever you have on hand (soap, or windex, doesn't matter) then wipe with alcohol. 2)figure out where exactly you want your solder to be, and coat the area JUST around the joint with your rosin. 3) heat up one piece and "tin", or coat, the part with solder. then do the same with the other piece. this gives you a ready to go solder joint. 4) now situate the parts how you are going to have them when finished, and get a small blob of solder on your iron, and join the parts together. this accomplishes a very clean joint that will need very little cleanup and if done right will not need any filler. TIP: if you "tin" the inside of brass tubing and basically solder from the inside, you can have a nearly invisible joint. TIP#2: a small butane torch works really good for this application.
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There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
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#6
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Re: Re: WIP: 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”
Thanks for comments on this "different" build
![]() Quote:
Actually it's one of tha main suspension dampers that run along the side of the chassis in this car. The picture below will probably show better what I'm trying to do here - basically I want a "metal" suspension ![]() Quote:
![]() Quote:
I tried to read up on soldering on the net but the gap between theory and practice.... Looking at the instructions again, I noticed that the dashboard and parcel tray are actually fixed to the door panel parts – which of course aren’t there anymore so I’ve cut off the relevant parts from the panels and they will be fixed inside the body and all should be OK. Also since the whole car will be open the floor needs some work – and carpet flocking is not an option .I filled 64 (j/k) ejector marks and also descided to fill in the spare wheel well to create a flat floor. I’m now thinking that actually I will try and make some kind of “anti slip” metal floor surface. I’ll either use cigarette foil or maybe some textured styrene if I can find some. ![]() thanks again for looking
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Guideline for happy modeling: Practice on scrap. Always try something new. Less is more. "I have a plan so cunning, you could put a tail on it and call it a weasel" - Edmund Blackadder |
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#7
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The old 2CV. The car that the French designed to carry eggs in baskets across farm lands etc… Or so I read, and watched on the discovery channel. They are much loved by there owners, but I saw one the over day, and it looked to be restored to its former glory. Was like it had just rolled off the assembly line, totally agree, the car is now an iconic classic, and surly along with the beetle and mini will never be forgotten, and will be recited to the younger generation by thousands of granddads around the world..
Anyhow, your build is certainly ambitious and good luck with it. I’m sure you will make a nice job of it. Certainly something different, bit like Monty Python - “And now for something totally different” as you have already quoted..!! |
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#8
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Re: WIP: 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”
Cooooool
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*Lady Modeler* Hers: 2000 Mustang GT - Bright Atlantic Blue 1999 Honda Civic - Milano Red His: 1999 Camaro SS - Hugger Orange 1969 Camaro w/ LT1/T56 Swap - Hugger Orange |
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#9
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Update (or more accurately back to basics)
My initial roll cage was obviously out of scale so I started again using thinner brass rod but gave up on that medium too as I’m obviously not ready for it yet. Then I remembered that this is called PLASTIC modeling and went to styrene. I re-made the side fixing mechanism on the side of the car. This method is what I had in mind from the very beginning but I tried to cut corners a bit. Lesson learned – do it properly first time round. I want a fixing mechanism that I can take off for painting and replace in exactly the same position - the fixing pins will do this - then the roll cage will not require any last minute re-fitting after painting (I hope) ![]() ![]() This is the beginning of the new roll cage using styrene rod with a metal core. I think this is looking much better that the previous one. ![]() Started making “slot on” type front bumper from styrene rod my favourite material of late – drilled out lollypop stick. ![]() ![]() This is where I am up to after last night’s work. Next stage will be to start fixing cross members and the front of the frame. ![]() I hope to start on the seats this weekend. Does anyone have an old, scrapped 2CV kit? I need a spare wheel to hang on the frame and can’t find one anywhere Thanks for looking and comments and ideas for contrasting colour scheme gratefully received – remember that I’m colour blind!
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Guideline for happy modeling: Practice on scrap. Always try something new. Less is more. "I have a plan so cunning, you could put a tail on it and call it a weasel" - Edmund Blackadder |
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#10
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Hi,
looks better now!! Is the front bar thicker ?
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Micha ![]()
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#11
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Re: WIP: 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”
Those French..
when everybody else put the rollcage inside the car, they of course have to do it in their special french way .."Oui Jean-Paul, ze röölcage .." " We not do like everybödy else. We put on outside of car!! " "Ahh, we French be ze smartest, Jean-Paul!!"
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Newsflash: Diecast sales fund terror activities. |
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#12
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Re: WIP: 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”
Now that's cool!!
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http://public.fotki.com/tonioseven/ |
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#13
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Re: WIP: 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”
WOWWWW! It´s a different kind of car!!! hehehe Nice Build!
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http://www.minituner.com.br WIP: Project NoMother (Nomad '55)**UPDATED (09/02/2005) My Mustang Boss 429 (Completed) My Mercedes Benz CLK DTM 2000 Street (Completed) |
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#14
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That´s probably the most crazy thing i´ve ever seen here, but i like it! Good luck on the cage!
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Julian |
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#15
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Re: Re: WIP: 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”
Quote:
LOL it was worth posting this build just for that comment I'll take the other comments as compliments - after all guys, how many bloody 300kmh cars can we look at? j/k BTW I was serious about being colour blind, if you have any suggestions for a different colour scheme I'm listening. Thanks again for looking in.
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Guideline for happy modeling: Practice on scrap. Always try something new. Less is more. "I have a plan so cunning, you could put a tail on it and call it a weasel" - Edmund Blackadder |
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