Cams....

HighRev87 · #1 02-28-2005, 09:05 PM

Ok so Im still in constant decision as to where I am going to go with my car. I think I am going to scrap the used supercharger with custom piping idea. Im thinking ill go N/A... (might change my mind again, but for now im going with it.)

Ok when looking at cams, what do you look for? What lift/dur? How do you know if the cam will be a-ok with your stock heads *eventually heads might be swapped out*?

If anyone has a link to a "cam choosing" guide or at least explanations, I would greatly appreciate it.
Also what is the best formula for running NA (as in order of getting things)? First and formost I want to get my 4.10s. Some think that might be a bad idea, but im not worried about slight loss in fuel economy. Im pretty set on the 4.10s. Then I figure exhaust (although I have been told LTs are not that great on Mustangs untill after extensive work), I figure I would do all exhaust at once... Then what next? Would I be looking to cam? Or should I be going with other minor bolt ons, like UDP?

So If anyone out there wants to graciously help me, please do it list style like this:
1. 4.10s
2. headers/midpipe/catback
3. UDP
4. Cam
5. Heads
(this list isnt anything in particular, just an example).

dampachi · #2 02-28-2005, 10:22 PM

I told you man...LTs on a a modular are no fun. It's about an 8 hour job. Not to mention with certain LTs you can't remove the bellhousing on the tranny...That adds another 8 or so hours to having your clutch swapped since they have to uninstall them then reinstall them. Save your money and get a 'used' centrifrugal blower. Used as in purchased, but never installed. You can pick up prochargers and vortechs for around $2,500 complete.

GTStang · #3 02-28-2005, 11:34 PM

If your gonna even spend money and time installing headers on a motor go LT's. If you want the easy route then just stick with CAI, UD pullies, TB, cat-back and leave the headers to the big boys.

As far as cam you need to decide what you want as a package and either wait or end up buying a cam that works now and buying anothe one when you upgrade your other parts.

dampachi · #4 03-01-2005, 01:44 AM

Definitely LTs if you insist on headers...but I'm saying you shouldn't even mess with headers at this point.

HighRev87 · #5 03-01-2005, 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dampachi

Definitely LTs if you insist on headers...but I'm saying you shouldn't even mess with headers at this point.

Well thats was kinda my point, i was saying it as when I do exhaust, ill do the full deal, but when should I have that on a list? The problem is, I dont want to buy a midpipe, just to sell it a year later for a LT mid pipe. If that means pushing back exhaust, thats ok with me.

We (Me and Duplox) actually priced out a used kit for supercharger. It came to about 1.7k. It involved buying a used headunit for about $900. All the piping would have been custom done for it by Duplox. I then had to buy injectors, fuel pumps, ect... We estimated it to about 400rwhp. The only problem is, he lives far from me. And I think it would be very hard to ship him the headunit, while he goes around near him looking for someone to let him under the hood for a 99+. If duplox couldnt be the man for the job, we are looking at anouther price increase, due to no one around here would "hook me up" like he could. That 1.7 also left out certain things like dyno tuning...Also id like to say I could install it myself, but im pretty sure it would cost me over 1k to get it installed.

It would be much harder (and costly) to get 400hp from a N/A engine. However, many of the small things I could have done myself. I would have been able to do almost everything (with a buddy) minus gears and LT headers.

Like I said, im back to the drawing table on what to do, unfortunatly I have been here to long.

GTStang · #6 03-01-2005, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HighRev87

Well thats was kinda my point, i was saying it as when I do exhaust, ill do the full deal, but when should I have that on a list? The problem is, I dont want to buy a midpipe, just to sell it a year later for a LT mid pipe. If that means pushing back exhaust, thats ok with me.

We (Me and Duplox) actually priced out a used kit for supercharger. It came to about 1.7k. It involved buying a used headunit for about $900. All the piping would have been custom done for it by Duplox. I then had to buy injectors, fuel pumps, ect... We estimated it to about 400rwhp. The only problem is, he lives far from me. And I think it would be very hard to ship him the headunit, while he goes around near him looking for someone to let him under the hood for a 99+. If duplox couldnt be the man for the job, we are looking at anouther price increase, due to no one around here would "hook me up" like he could. That 1.7 also left out certain things like dyno tuning...Also id like to say I could install it myself, but im pretty sure it would cost me over 1k to get it installed.

It would be much harder (and costly) to get 400hp from a N/A engine. However, many of the small things I could have done myself. I would have been able to do almost everything (with a buddy) minus gears and LT headers.

Like I said, im back to the drawing table on what to do, unfortunatly I have been here to long.

Honestly man you confuse me here.....

What year is ya stang? What kinda power do you wanna make?

HighRev87 · #7 03-01-2005, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTStang

Honestly man you confuse me here.....

What year is ya stang? What kinda power do you wanna make?

Sorry bro....
Let me first queue you in on my car..I have a 1999 Mustang GT 5speed. It is pretty much stock (came with K&N and flowmaster mufflers. Neither of which I mind keeping/losing). I want about 300-350hp, however i wouldnt mind having more (as in the supercharger setup). My original goal (before buying the car) was hitting 12s. That would give me enough of a balance between being my daily driver, and tearing it up on weekend cruise/race nights. However I am torn on which way to go.

The thing that is nice about the N/A setup, is I feel I can do part by part, rather then all at once of a Supercharger. Although more expensive, it would be speed over time. With the supercharger, Id have to wait awhile (to gather the cash), but I would jump right into the category I want.

boosted331 · #8 03-01-2005, 03:44 PM

Building a N/A modular is no damn fun. You can expect to hit 330-ish RWHP with a fully built motor, ported heads, big cams.

FUCK CAMS, find an S-trim. You will be happier with the blower, by far.

GTStang · #9 03-01-2005, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boosted331

Building a N/A modular is no damn fun. You can expect to hit 330-ish RWHP with a fully built motor, ported heads, big cams.

FUCK CAMS, find an S-trim. You will be happier with the blower, by far.

I'm with Boosted here just use FI on the car it is sooo much cheaper and you'll get more power on a Mod motor.

dampachi · #10 03-01-2005, 03:52 PM

N/A modulars just aren't worth the hassle for us street/strip guys. Not to mention you'd need drag radials/slicks to run those times N/A...so you'd need a rebuilt rearend with 31 spline gears/31 spine differential. A stock GT mustang save for 4.10s+drag radials=broken axles. With a blower..you can still spin your way to 12s. As long as you're not catching traction..you wont be breaking axles.

silverstangs · #11 03-01-2005, 04:28 PM

I don't think 12's will be too difficult NA for a modular engine. It's just a matter of coming up with a total package. You have to look at everything on your car, not just the engine. Getting 310~330hp to the wheels NA shouldn't be extremely difficult. You really need to make intelligent choices on the parts you are getting, and everything needs to compliment each other.

There are things on your car that take power away from what hits your wheels. You might want to consider replacing those with better parts. For instance, rotational mass alone can kill 10-50hp depending on how much weight your engine has to turn.

This is a list of rotalational mass than rob HP and TQ that can be replaced with lighter aftermarket components.

1) Ring and Pinion (Motive Gear offers gears that are between 1.5~2lbs lighter in weight.
2) Driveshaft (Aluminum or Carbon Fiber)
3) Flywheel ( Aluminum or Steel vs the 37lbs Stock IRON flywheel)
4) Pressure plate (Have it lightend, removes about 1.2~1.5 lbs)
5) Water pump (Go electric)
6) Rotors ( Two piece rotors weigh much less than stock rotors)
7) Wheels/Tires ( Light weight rims can weigh as little as 12lbs)
8) Pulley's. (Remove some of the drag, spin the accesories slower)

SkylineUSA · #12 03-01-2005, 04:45 PM

When in doubt, boost that fucker

silverstangs · #13 03-01-2005, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkylineUSA

When in doubt, boost that fucker

That's the easy way to do things.........

HighRev87 · #14 03-01-2005, 06:38 PM

Ok you guys convinced me... I will try not to go into FI denial anymore (just keeps happening though). I decided that the day that school is over, will be the day I look for a summer full time job. 40 hours a week + my weekend grocery 12 hours. With that workload (im used to school + 2 jobs ~ shouldnt be do bad), I will be able to afford blower and essential parts, money for going out and fun, insurance cash, gas, and maybe some money tucked away for Nittos.

dampachi · #15 03-01-2005, 07:55 PM

The thing about the bolt ons is you need to use every bit of the power you make. And so you have to build your rearend, etc. With a blower..you'll have so much power you can just spin your way to 12s.

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