performance gaskets?

[johnny2quick]

what makes a performance gasket? i'm wondering why they are better than OE. i'm not looking for just simple answers, i'm really interested in the diffferences, the materials used, and how they help the engine

[TheSilentChamber]

Most performance gaskets are made to withstand higher pressures while maintaining better sealing properties that are needed in high performance/racing environments. Some are differnt specs than factory such as head gaskets that come in differnt thicknesses, a shorter headgasket will bump up compression a point or so witch will in turn give you a tad more power. Materials uses depends on what gasket your talking about and what company made it. Most performance gaskets are going going to be of a more ruggid material than OE gaskets, such as a OE gasket may be cork where as a performance would be a higher quality more durable material.

[MagicRat]

^^good answer^^
I might like to add that there is a wide range of quality in replacement OE gaskets.
Auto manufacturers generally specify very high quality gaskets (reduces warranty complaints, and speeds the manufacturing process) while often aftermarket replacement items can often (but not always) be quite low quality.
Generally, auto parts supplies work on thin profit margins and must buy their stock at the lowest possible price.

[johnny2quick]

thanks guys.

what are some of the materials used in the better quality performance gaskets? I'm doing research for a future rebuild, and I want all my nuts in one basket when I get to it.

[mike5721947]

some low quality aftermarket gasket for certain cars are of lower quality and dont even match the proper holes for drain holes and such (toyota le van (87 or somthing around there)

[curtis73]

For the most part, gasket materials suit different purposes. For instance, when comparing head gaskets... If the application is a stock or performance street rebuild, a coated steel gasket works fine, like FelPro's permatorque line of blue gaskets. They are a steel shim gasket with a pre-flattened compression sealer ring around each bore. For good, true iron to iron surfaces, its hard to beat. You get the strength of steel with a pre-flattened wire ring for excellent compression sealing, and a blue coating that doesn't need any sealant.

If you have aluminum heads, often times this gasket doesn't do so well. First of all, the steel rings will damage the soft aluminum, and second since the aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates, the blue sealant coating will be compromised the first heat cycle. In those cases, either a fiber or copper ringed gasket is used in conjunction with some type of sealant. The old-school folks swear by silver paint, but newer sealants like the copper spray gasket sealer are superior in flexible bonding.

Often times racers want a fool-proof seal with a re-usable gasket. In that case, they usually use a copper gasket. Since its soft, it won't damage aluminum heads or blocks and its also great at conforming to tiny irregularities. They always require some type of sealant and they typically have more flexibility in thickness design if changing compresssion is something you wish to do with the gasket. They tend to lack long-term reliability since they are such a soft metal that tends to corrode easily. The electrolytic reactions between copper, aluminum, and iron can be pretty damaging.

As far as the other gaskets go, I've had luck with these...

For the oil pan Just use the Fel Pro kit for your engine. I've used three different Fel Pro styles on mine with great success. One had cork style side rails and rubber end seals. They mate together very specifically and sealing was an easy task. They make them in a fiber type gasket, a cork type, and a one-piece rubber/silicone type seal with a steel core to prevent distortion. If you know you are done with the mains and rods, do the fiber or cork gaskets and seal them with RTV. If you're going to get in there from time to time, use the one-piece and seal it with a light coat of grease. The latter method will work well for short periods, but its not smart on a long-life engine as it will start to leak after a couple years if not sooner.

Most other gaskets I use whatever suits. In general, if the joint is between a hard part and a flexible part (like a valve cover to a head), I like to use a thicker cork seal. When you tighten it down, you're going to always deform the soft part to a degree. The cork relaxes and takes the shape very well and prevents leaks. For joints that are designed to be installed and done (like timing cover) I use a paper gasket with RTV. In these cases, the gasket is basically a rigid holder for the sealant. You could omit the paper gasket and just use RTV, but RTV is too fluid. If you assemble it, the flange will sqeeze the RTV out unevenly. The paper gasket will not deform under torque and it will hold the RTV where you want it.

For the intake manifold, I just say get the FelPro blue line intake set for our engine. They are recommended to be installed dry and work very well.