Starter problems (I think)

[zapp]

Hi,

I attempted to start my car (1990 Delta 88) yesterday and all I got was a "click". After a few tests, I finally determined the starter was bad. I removed the old starter and had it tested at Autozone. It tested bad. (So far so good).
I bought a new Duralast (remanufactured) starter at Autozone and installed it. I tried to start the car but all I got was a "click". The solenoid energizes and pops the motor shaft up but the motor doesn't turn. I took this starter back to Autozone and had them test it. It tested good. The motor turned just fine. So I hooked it back up to my car, and ran a couple of tests....

The voltage from the small switching wire to ground is 12V when engaging the ignition. The voltage from the power wire to ground is 12V prior to engaging the ignition but then drops down to approx 3~6 V when the key is turned. I don't how or know what to check next.


Thanks in advance for any help!!

Joe

[curtis73]

Two thoughts. 1) 12v is not that much. I know its a 12v system, but at rest, it should be making more like 13v. While running, 14.4v. You could have a completely dead battery that still tests out at 12v. Its quite possible that your battery is dying since you've been taxing it with a failing starter.

2) The reman starter may test fine, but just because it spins and takes X amps to run with no load, doesn't mean that it actaully makes adequate torque. I had a similar problem with a barn fan. It wouldn't spin. I pulled the motor and it tested fine; 4.1 amps, 125v from the wall and after the motor, but when it was installed with the blades it drew 14 amps, didn't spin, and dropped the voltage to 80.

Try to explain that to Autozone... you'll usually get blank stares, but if you can get another one, it might be the problem. Also, ask to borrow a tool (for a deposit), but they have a little handheld computer for battery and charging system testing. It will tell you the actual cranking amps left in your battery. If its less than about 85% of original, it needs to be charged or replaced. It can't hurt to just go ahead and charge it, either but I'm sure you know that. If you know enough to test the posts, you know what you're doing

It could also be something as dumb as a corroded post on the ignition switch not giving enough juice to the solenoid for full engagement, a corroded post on the battery, or a bad wire to the solenoid.

[zapp]

Thanks for the reply.

1. Yes, technically, resting voltage of the battery was actually around 13 V. I guess since the battery is only 2 yrs old, I didn't suspect it. I'll check it. (I think I'll jump my Olds with my other car that has a new battery and see what I get.)

2. The second time I connected the starter to my car I let it hang down by the wires and grounded it with my jumper cables to the engine block. So this was a no load situation. hmmm..


Can I assume it to be normal behavior that the supply voltage on the starter drops when I try to start the car?

Thanks again!!

[curtis73]

Yes, but not to 3v. I could understand a couple volts from a less-than-adequate connection, but not 3

[zapp]

curtis, it turned out to be the battery too. I had it tested at AZ. it tested good but with a low charge. thanks for the advice.