My 331 dyno numbers. for those w/ similar setups

90redgt · #1 10-06-2004, 09:01 PM

Just to let everyone know. If there's anyone out there doing a 331 project with something similar to mine (check sig) then you might be interested in this. Keep in mind, no boost, fuel injected w/ chip and dyno tune. I made 352RWHP with 4 degree advance in timing via computer chip. also i'm using kinda big injectors to so if you going to use boost on your 331 later then 36lb injectors can be tuned....trust me

and to tell you the truth i was VERY surprised at these numbers for a N/A 331. I guess this could also apply to 347 setups. I have a tko600 5spd tranny i figured that with a 20% drivetrain loss crank power is around 400-410HP...now with a 347......................................wow. Just thought i'd let you know what to expect from your 331/347 projects. I know there's gotta be a few out there with similar heads/cam/intake. Anyway hope you guys are as lucky as me. No reason you shouldn't be with a good tune.

brandon

ps. and yes i did already post this in the street racing forum

GTStang · #2 10-07-2004, 02:29 AM

Very nice man and your probably not losing 20%

blue_GT_89 · #3 10-07-2004, 09:26 AM

some say 331 make more power on most street motors than 347's im looking at a D.S.S. pro bullet 331 short block for my stang, if you go to the dss website you can read the article in mm and ff called "331 ways to eat an LS1" they have a hell of a set up

GTStang · #4 10-07-2004, 11:27 AM

Actually I don't believe it is make more power but makes similiar with less torque but there is less side loading on the block.

351wStang · #5 10-07-2004, 09:53 PM

A 302 is a very versatile engine and a 331 has just stroke to give it some ass.

90redgt · #6 10-07-2004, 10:51 PM

and a .030 over bore

hehehe

351wStang · #7 10-10-2004, 09:10 AM

The .030 overbore doesnt help nearly as much as alot of ppl think. It adds 4ci, leads to a greater chance of running hot, and would only be suggested by an experienced engine builder for a near perfect cylinder wall. ie no wear from top-bottom.

GTStang · #8 10-10-2004, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 351wStang

The .030 overbore doesnt help nearly as much as alot of ppl think. It adds 4ci, leads to a greater chance of running hot, and would only be suggested by an experienced engine builder for a near perfect cylinder wall. ie no wear from top-bottom.

Overboring started as a way to get more life out of an engine when the cylinders are too out of stock spec to get good ring seal.

If all your cylinder walls are is near perfect why would you overbore it?
Unless you want to get a certain amount of cu. which there is a plethura of reasons for.

351wStang · #9 10-10-2004, 06:28 PM

That was my point... there is no reason to bore unless you have something to correct. Like I said, you do run a greater chance of running hot due to thinner cyl walls after you bore one out. Also like I said earlier there is no reason to bore unless you have uneven wear from the top of the cyl to the bottom..ya know like the main reason engines are bored. Then of course if you where running in a class of some sort that required a certain ci, then you may want to bore as little as you need to get as close as you can.
The only reason I said anything was to make the point that there is not really any point in boring an engine that doesnt need to be bored. If you can get away with honing then just do that. There are too many ppl out there who think you cannot reabuild an engine without boring it.

eillob · #10 10-10-2004, 07:55 PM

Good info fellas, this forum is getting better and better.

351wStang · #11 10-10-2004, 08:23 PM

Hows the 347 looking eillob?

GTStang · #12 10-10-2004, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 351wStang

That was my point... there is no reason to bore unless you have something to correct. Like I said, you do run a greater chance of running hot due to thinner cyl walls after you bore one out. Also like I said earlier there is no reason to bore unless you have uneven wear from the top of the cyl to the bottom..ya know like the main reason engines are bored. Then of course if you where running in a class of some sort that required a certain ci, then you may want to bore as little as you need to get as close as you can.
The only reason I said anything was to make the point that there is not really any point in boring an engine that doesnt need to be bored. If you can get away with honing then just do that. There are too many ppl out there who think you cannot reabuild an engine without boring it.

Haha ya know what.... I read ya post the wrong way I was thinking you were saying an engine builder would only bore cylinders that were already perfect not bore them to make them perfect.

My B continue on continue on...... you owned me!

But I totally agree boring the block in not really done for the increasement of cubes for power but to start with perfect sized cylinder walls for the rings to seal and is very often not needed.

eillob · #13 10-10-2004, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 351wStang

Hows the 347 looking eillob?

I just getting the rest of my money together. Im gonna go ahead and order a short block from DSS. There prices are pretty comparable to what I've been getting around town.

This 331 doesn't sound to bad either though. The 331 sounds like its a little more streetable.

90redgt · #14 10-12-2004, 01:52 AM

Get a mild cam, a 331 and maybe a little boost. over 400HP at the wheels easy. I put down 352HP at the rear wheels and that was N/A. But i also have a pretty lopey cam. Not really good for a daily driver, but for me it's just a weekend car anyway so i dont' mind the idle.

GTStang · #15 10-12-2004, 01:37 PM

What kind of Static CR you have Brandon?

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