battery keeps dying on me!

[stang_racer20]

Everytime i have to jump start it, then by morning its dead! My battery light is also on so I assume there connected. The battery is brand new, the starter and alternator are less the 2 years old. Electrical trouble shooting is not my strong point, any thoughts?

[351wStang]

If your alt is good then you have a constant drain somewhere. Hook a analog volt meter up to your battery - alt. Then start pulling fuses. When you pull a fuse that bounces the voltage you know your drain is on that circuit.

[ITFD]

Are you sure the battery is dying? Make sure the battery connections are real clean.
Happened to me where I had to boost it to start it but the alt kept enough power to run the ignition

[SVTcobra306]

Check all the lights, glovebox, under hood (if equipped)

Sometimes a switch goes bad...

[GTStang]

First thing is just check for a drain.... If you have none common culprits is #1 bad battery connection #2 dying alternator the stock 5.0's alts are notoriously undersized for the job #3 Bad battery. #2 & #3 about even.


I had an alternator that was under a month old be bad and a battery that was only 4 months old bad at the same time. They worked well enough to start the car run it no probs and shut it off for a while and start again but overmight and it was dead teh next morning. One took out the other so don't rule em out until you test them. Autozone and such do it for free.

[stang_racer20]

I just realized something last night. I dont know how I did it! My main engine ground is hooked up from the neg. terminal to the metal fender area and not the block. What would that cause? Otherwise I'll check later today for any drains. What setting on my voltmeter should I use and how much of a drop would indicate a drain?

[DRW1000]

That would cause an inefficient return path for all electrics. Of course maximum current needs to be available when cranking your engine so you may be on to something here.

Any reason why it is connected here?

[wildstringer]

you can use a volt meter or just disconnect one of the battery terminals . hook one end of a test light to the cable and attach the other to the batt term. if it lights up there is a drain . just remember if the door is open the light is going to stay on cause of the dome light . then like 351 said just pull fuses til the light goes out .i made a similar device only with a audible sound its hard to see the light when you are under the dash with the doors closed. LOL

[stang_racer20]

Well I tried disconnecting the negative terminal and using a test light between. It did not light up, no drains using that method. I'll still try the pulling fuses method once I find my voltometer. I also transfered that main ground to the block and it did not change a thing. If I disconnect my battery the alternator does keep running the vehicle so I know its not my alternator. So thats leaves me w/ one possibilty....a bad battery. I guess theres a first time for everything cause I've never gotten a bad part before. Its warranteed anyways so at least I can get a new oned and see what happens. Any other thoughts, opinions or comments anyone?

[SVTcobra306]

Go Optima!!!

[blue_GT_89]

you might want to flush your cooling system because if your engine isn't properly grounded, electrolysis can cause a chemical reaction in your coolant and your coolant can quickly eat away at water jackets, radiators, or more than likely your heater core.

[stang_racer20]

There were two things causing the mis-charging. The white/black signal wire on the lower alternator connector was broken from the other white/black wire it connected to. My alternator also had an internal drain, which I never would have guessed. Thank god I have people at my work who like to help people out in need! It's now charging right around 14.5 volts running. And most importantly, the battery light is out! Thanks to all for your thoughts and help. I might be getting some quarter times this weekend too. WooHoo!