My 350 project.. quick questions

[instantkevin]

Welp... finally got to the junkyard and bought a used 5.7L engine out of an 1983 Chevy Astro Van, engine code (8th digit of VIN) is "L". The RPO label showed that it is a LS9 engine.

My alternator is going bad on my 6 cylinder engine, I want to buy a new one that is more powerful (considering my stereo system: 2 Alpine amps, Infinity Kappa 10.1D sub, Inifinity 4x6s & 6x9s, 1 Farad Capacitor). I'm told the factory alt is 60amp. If so, if this is true (is it?), I think I'll go with a 105amp. Problem is I want to buy one that will fit the new engine I just bought too. Is this unrealistic? I think it might be. SOMEBODY GIVE ME SOME HOPE!

Also, when I'm done building this thing (in approx. 1 month) I don't want it to fall apart on the first run. What are some engine building do's and don'ts?

To keep it together I was thinking of putting ARP connecting rod bolts, main bearing bolts, and cylinder head bolts. Is there anything else you would recommend to keep me from having a major malfunction when after I drop it in and hit the gas?

Also *BIG QUESTION*: Do I have to have the crank and pistons re-balanced if I put the ARP connecting rod bolts on?

To see my parts list go here http://12.227.156.234/build/PartsList.htm

[Deadcarny]

Never heard of an Astro with a factory V8.

[ridge_runner]

yea i was thinkin the same thing... thats kinda weird

[ridge_runner]

well come to think of it i think the heavier duty vans did and i think some came with diesels

[instantkevin]

that's right, some of them did have diesels, the 6.2L and the 5.7L engines. I wasn't 100% sure it was an Astro van... it looked like one. it was in a junkyard, and it had no emblems on it. I just looked it up on autos.msn.com. It actually looked more like the G-Series van and the Sport Van, which both came with factory 5.7Ls and 6.2Ls. Anyway, surely someone has an answer to my crank and piston question??? (a well-informed friend at work told me I can use the v8 alternator)

[Dober89]

You dont have to have them balanced but I guess it couldnt hurt to have the rods balanced. I even wonder how close they were from the factory.

[instantkevin]

how sure are you?? I will be very pissed off if I put it in the car and have to take it back out, dissasemble more shit and then spend more money on a balancing job. Not pissed at you, by the way, just pissed in general.

as a matter of fact I'll take a poll... go to the top and vote.

[GTStang]

You don't have to balance it but why not spend the extra $300 to have the whole rotating assembly balanced for peace of mind?

[ridge_runner]

Originally Posted by GTStang

You don't have to balance it but why not spend the extra $300 to have the whole rotating assembly balanced for peace of mind?

[Robs71Nova]

I am currently going through the same thing as you, rebuilding a 454 to put in my Nova. If you use ARP bolts in the rods, im pretty sure your gonna have to get the holes resized to fit the ARP bolts. As far as some other Do's and Don't, My best advice is take your time and do things right, obviously. New cam bearings and freeze plugs are a good idea, and new main/rod bearings are a must. ANother thing I have found is the project is probably gonna take more time and money then you planned for, so keep that in mind. Because of that, when your building the bottom part of the engine, use engine assembly lube on everything possible. You can't put TOO much, and if you dont use enough and things start locking up before you run the motor it's not going to be a good situation. Also I would advise putting a High volume oil pump whyile your redoing the motor, and maybe (depending on the power numbers your wanting to produce) a better flexplate. Hope this helps.

Rob

[Robs71Nova]

Also in regards to the balancing question. I have brought the same question up to a few of my local machine shops, and everyone of them have said that unless you plan on having a higher revving motor (regularly going over 6k RPMS) balancing your assembly isnt necessary/worth it. Hope this helps.

Rob

[instantkevin]

yea that helps. Thanks Rob. Balancing it for peace of mind would be nice, but if it is unecessary I really don't want to do it... I'm building big power on as small of a budget possible, and of course, I want it to be Chevy reliable. The 6cyl has 186k miles on it, and hasn't been rebuilt yet. Its still a daily driver. Any other suggestions are welcome.

Also, later on down the road (some years), I foresee myself getting a NOS setup or a blower perhaps. What do you charger and bottle-users do to make sure it doesn't fall apart?

[sobol]

Originally Posted by instantkevin

Welp... finally got to the junkyard and bought a used 5.7L engine out of an 1983 Chevy Astro Van, engine code (8th digit of VIN) is "L". The RPO label showed that it is a LS9 engine.

My alternator is going bad on my 6 cylinder engine, I want to buy a new one that is more powerful (considering my stereo system: 2 Alpine amps, Infinity Kappa 10.1D sub, Inifinity 4x6s & 6x9s, 1 Farad Capacitor). I'm told the factory alt is 60amp. If so, if this is true (is it?), I think I'll go with a 105amp. Problem is I want to buy one that will fit the new engine I just bought too. Is this unrealistic? I think it might be. SOMEBODY GIVE ME SOME HOPE!

Also, when I'm done building this thing (in approx. 1 month) I don't want it to fall apart on the first run. What are some engine building do's and don'ts?

To keep it together I was thinking of putting ARP connecting rod bolts, main bearing bolts, and cylinder head bolts. Is there anything else you would recommend to keep me from having a major malfunction when after I drop it in and hit the gas?

Also *BIG QUESTION*: Do I have to have the crank and pistons re-balanced if I put the ARP connecting rod bolts on?

To see my parts list go here http://12.227.156.234/build/PartsList.htm

Why not be on the safe side and get a warranty with a rebuilt or crate engine, GM has good prices and all you do is go from crate to engine bay!

Robert

[drvngstorm05]

that's not as fun... building a engine is a good learning experience. tho personally i've never gone into the block of a motor, just as deep as heads and valvetrain

[Savage Messiah]

learning experiance, but say my engine dies tomorrow (knock on wood), what would be my best bet? which is cheaper to get done right?