Not your average Xmod...

[djAkira36]

Sorry in advance for the crappy webcam pics..

Asthetic/External mods:

-Repainted w/ 4 coats of tamiya light gunmetal grey.
-Shortened the wingstays to mount the wing closer to the body.
-Cut an opening in the windshield to give more airflow to the heatsink.
-Japanese tuner shop style "roll call" decal layout on the hood.
-Mild bodykit.
-Titanium gold painted rims




Performance/Internal:

-Just about evey upgrade from RS except the light kit and foam wheels.

Non-RS mods:

-Carbon fiber chassis.
-Custom-modified NML S-11 180 sized motor w/ 40 turn diagnal patterned armature, neo-mags.
-Stacked FETs.
-composite drive shaft, front and rear custom ball differentials, and aluminum cup shafts.
-rear tri-shock modification(drastically improves cornering traction, not recommended for drifting because it pretty much makes it impossible, great for road racing though)
-Inline mounted resistor steering servo fix, (3.3k ohm) reduces turning radius dramatically.
-Custom made internal antenna.






Future mods:

-AA size Lithium-ion cells.
-30amp, 30 volt external regulator from atomicmods.com
-Full proportional aftermaket steering servo.

So far performance wise, it can hang with a similarly modifed mini-z, which isn't bad considering it cost about $100 more to do the mini-z equivalent of my xmod(referring to the $150 price tage of a mini-z). But being that I did most of the mods myself would probably make the total even less.

I figure I've spent about a total of $120 (excluding the price if the xmod itself) in hop-ups, of course, having a radio shack employee as a friend helps keep costs down as well too, lol.

[Howielong]

Very nice. Seems alot better then a average xmod. But i still hate them.

[djAkira36]

Originally Posted by Howielong

Very nice. Seems alot better then a average xmod. But i still hate them.

Ok... I can live with that, lol.

[turbo type-r]

how did u make the chassis

[djAkira36]

Originally Posted by turbo type-r

how did u make the chassis

I didn't, I got it from a site that sold a limited quantity of them a while back.

[Howielong]

Originally Posted by djAkira36

Ok... I can live with that, lol.

Ok. It is all good.

[SL500Gullwing]

how do u make an internal attenna?

[Afrofent]

I am not to fond of Xmod's but your is pretty nice.

[mike@af]

Whats the hole in the windsheild supposed to do?

[Afrofent]

Like he said Michael, keep his heatsink cool.

[mike@af]

Originally Posted by Afrofent

Like he said Michael, keep his heatsink cool.

No offense to him at all, but that one do diddly. I can run my RC with the body off and the heat sink is just as warm. I also have never seen any electric RC's with a hole in the windsheild, only nitros. Nitros have them because of the air intake, not for cooling purposes.

[Afrofent]

Maybe it add's to the top MPH, lol?

[FlySkyline]

FYI- i am the one who had the idea of the thrid spring across the 2 rear shocks for better traction. its posted at tinyrc.com.

but anyways i like what you have done to your xmod. except for the gold rims on a gunmetal body.

if you do the regulator mod, beaware you will burn out many motors fast

and the whole in the front windshield isnt going much good when there isnt a whole in the rear window to allow for the air to flow through. if you put a whole in the rear window, it will cool the motor better. the xmods have a bad tendency to overheat very quickly, expecially if you are running multiple cells. also a whole in the rear window will help in your performance more then just the whole in the front, the whole in the front is actually slowing your xmod down acting like a parachute, and it isnt helping as much as you think it is

[djAkira36]

Originally Posted by GTmike400

No offense to him at all, but that one do diddly. I can run my RC with the body off and the heat sink is just as warm. I also have never seen any electric RC's with a hole in the windsheild, only nitros. Nitros have them because of the air intake, not for cooling purposes.

Originally Posted by FlySkyline

.....and the whole in the front windshield isnt going much good when there isnt a whole in the rear window to allow for the air to flow through. if you put a whole in the rear window, it will cool the motor better. the xmods have a bad tendency to overheat very quickly, expecially if you are running multiple cells. also a whole in the rear window will help in your performance more then just the whole in the front, the whole in the front is actually slowing your xmod down acting like a parachute, and it isnt helping as much as you think it is

Actually, It work better than you think. I tested it thoroughly on a spare body before ripping open the windshield on the Skyline using a homemade wind tunnel I made from a variable speed rotary exhaust fan and spare pvc piping. The wind tunnel was an old junior high school science project.

I did consider opening the rear windows like you said, but that proved unfeasible since the rear clip bracket was molded to it, so instead I shaved off excess plastic from the bracket. now do to the downward angle of the rear window it forced the air out the rear through the bottom of the body. Keep in mind that the fan was adjusted to a speed setting that would recreate windspeeds of about 10mph, but I also tested it to about 20mph.

The opening does cool the motor though not as drastically as some may assume. Which was fine for me, after hard running the motor does A slight drop in temp to the touch. In the end, the opening made a difference of about 2 degrees which dosent sound like much, but considering the size of the motor, every little bit helps. Also, another incentive was lightening the body slightly on top of the lightening already done to it.

In reply to FlySkyline, drag is not an issue when dealing with 1/28 scale cars that are traveling at speeds under 30mph, or rather on avg of 20mph, the motor I'm using is tuned more for torque, if I could guess the top speed, I'd say just under 30mph give or take; but it rarely reaches those speeds on the track I use.. Your point is valid though, just not applicable to xmods. But I will admit, during the wind tunnel testing, the air exiting out of the rear was distorted while thw air over the rear was the same as prior to opening the windshield, but I don't see it affect overall performance.

Originally Posted by FlySkyline

FYI- i am the one who had the idea of the thrid spring across the 2 rear shocks for better traction. its posted at tinyrc.com.

but anyways i like what you have done to your xmod. except for the gold rims on a gunmetal body.

if you do the regulator mod, beaware you will burn out many motors fast

I'd like to see your thread on it, not to call you out or anything, but I've been a member if tinyRC for a while now and I was a lurker on there long before I became a member and have seen just about every post relevant to my own car. I'm only asking so if what you say is true, I can give you props in my Xmodworld.com thread on the subject.

As for the color scheme on my Skyline, I was just emulating the Limited edition Skyline GT-R Nur Spec http://www.fast-autos.net/nissan/nissannur.html

And for the voltage regulator, it is very neccesary in my case, the current motor pulls more power than the present power source and stacked fets can handle. I was advised by Draconious and Jshwaa at TinyRC to try it out, that it may solve my current problems. But that's not going into the equation until I find a power source capable of supplying the power my motor requires, enter Lithium-ion power. As for details on my motor, they can be found in my thread on xmodworld in the suspension forums.

[FlySkyline]

ask and you shall recieve

http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthr...threadid=18287

dated 2-20-2004