2.2/2.5 Non-Turbo won't start / dies...

[tazfink302]

I have a 89 Dodge Spirit 2.5 EFI (rebuilt head) w/auto trans. After driving for approx. 20 to 30 minutes on cruise the engine will stutter a couple of times but it will come right back. It is kind of like the car is hiccuping.... Then when you shut off the car and try to restart it (either right away or after 10 min or so) it cranks hard. Oh, it will tease you by "starting" and firing on about 2 or 3 cyls but never all 4 (almost acts like it isn't getting any fuel). I had an 86 Ply Turismo Duster w/ 2.2 carb that would do this but I could roll start that to get it running (thank goodness for mech. fuel pump). I am starting to wonder if it is the ECM/computer/? I am not sure.....ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATE!

Oh yes I checked the codes and it came up with a code 36... According to the codes at Allpar.com that doesn't even apply to my car.

[pcv]

When the vehicle does not start, you need to check for two components, fuel and spark. Safely disconnect the fuel line and place the end coming from the fuel tank into a bottle and crank the engine. There should be good flow (should be gauged). If the flow is good, the pump is okay. Next check for spark by pulling the spark plug wire and holding it with an insulated plier 1/2 inch from a good ground while someone cranks the engine. There should be good spark, if not then you need to work on the ignition system. Scanning the system may also reveil problems with a sensor. I find the map sensor on these vehicles tend to go bad.
Good Luck.

[tazfink302]

I have less than 500 miles on the car after having the head rebuilt, I did pull the plugs after the first time it would not start after being driven/run for 20-30 minutes and the plugs looked almost brand new. They weren't the nice golden tan yet, I assume that is just from such few miles.

Update!......The car has had a turn for the worse, the other evening I was pulling the cap, rotor, plug wires, and Hall Effect Sensor off of my old '86 Ply. Turismo Duster (the parts were fairly new) and the car quit, as it was idling. We tried see why it would crank over hard and not start, when we were checking for spark, I was cranking the engine and for the first few cranks there was no spark then it did spark and ran on a couple cyls. and then died. I installed the ignition parts from the Turismo, the were fairly new. We messed around with it for awile then left it when we noticed that the fuel pump wasn't running when I turn on the key. It was working earlier and stopped sometime in between.

This is what I will be checking: the ASD (auto shutdown) Relay, the computer and wiring harness, the fuel pump for juice, and a case of TNT if that all fails.

Thanks for your help and I will keep you posted....

[tazfink302]

This is also starting to remind me of my 94 Dodge Dakota. It would crank and crank, and nothing. I even replaced the fuel pump, after getting frustrated, I took it to the Dodge dealer and they said it was a wire splice. I would assume it would be in the fuel pump circuit. I will be checking the wiring and fuel pump for power before getting a new one.

[tazfink302]

The first and foremost problem is the fuel pump. I do not think this is going to solve the "hic-cupping" as described earlier. In talking with a mechanic friend of mine, the hard cranking when warm may be from a deteriorating starter. As always will keep you posted, in case I am not the only one with these problems.

[slantsixness]

Taz,

Fuel pump, fuel pump relay (near battery). Throttle position sensor, Idle air control valve, PCV valve

Check 'em all. Won't throw a code unless you do the throttle position test.

This is a common and frustrating problem. Whatch out or you can burn a valve in the new head from bad fuel/air mixture. Do you smell your exhaust when you're in the driveway? It should smell bad, like it's getting too much gas (rich).

Slantsixness

[tazfink302]

Just out of curiousity, how do you do a throttle position test?

Originally Posted by slantsixness

Taz,

Fuel pump, fuel pump relay (near battery). Throttle position sensor, Idle air control valve, PCV valve

Check 'em all. Won't throw a code unless you do the throttle position test.

This is a common and frustrating problem. Whatch out or you can burn a valve in the new head from bad fuel/air mixture. Do you smell your exhaust when you're in the driveway? It should smell bad, like it's getting too much gas (rich).

Slantsixness

[slantsixness]

measure the resistance of the TPS at different throttle positions with the motor off. The proceedure is pretty simple, but you'd need the OBD programmer/reader. It also is part of the proceedure for setting the idle speed.

Slantsixness