89 Chevy S-10 with a 2.5L turns over but dies

[Aitcheson]

I have a ’89 Chevy S-10 with a 2.5L Throttle Body Fuel Injected Manual Truck. A week ago it started to sputter out and when I lifted the hood I found a pin sized hole in the radiator return. It wet about everything under the hood. The radiator only lost about half a gallon of water and the truck was not overheating. I replaced the hose and refilled the radiator but now the truck will turn over and start but dies in about a second. The two could be unrelated. The hole was small and could have been there for a while without me noticing.

I can keep it running by revving it with the gas but it feels slow and will not steady out. If I can keep it idling it is very rough and will smooth out with a spray of carburetor cleaner in the intake. (I would think that this would rule out a spark issue or compression?)
The alternator was hot after just a few min of running the other day and during my checking I found a slight bearing noise and grinding so it was replaced. I was told that an issue with the Ignition Circuit could cause the alternator to get hot if it were not able to charge the battery. Jumper cables were used on the truck about a week prior if it makes any difference. (lights left on)

I have checked the vacuum lines the best that I can and found no leaks. I get fuel to the injector but do not have the gage to verify that it is the right pressure. While running I can hear the injector spraying but don’t see much.
Below is the list of things that I have changed out. Most of it was kind of cheap and I figured since I have to have the truck emissions checked soon it couldn’t hurt. Some was seeing that it could use a change anyway.

Throttle Position Sensor
Fuel Filter
MAP Sensor
EGR Valve Solenoid
Idle Air Control Valve
Alternator
Fuel Injector
Intake Air Temp Sensor
Ignition Switch
Spark Plugs
Distributor Rotor
Coil
Ignition Control Module
Starter and Solenoid
Battery cable(+)
And I checked the Fuel Pressure Regulator for a leaking diaphragm. and swapped out the ECM (computer) but switched it back when it had no improvement.

This is what I want to move on to and have tested or replace…

Fuel Pump – I have yet to check the pressure so it makes me wonder if it could be that.
Compression - Could the water have cracked the head? I was only driving about 15 min when this happened.
Battery - Went and had it charged and tested but the guy seamed like he had no idea what he was doing with the tester.

I would also like to know more about resetting the ECM. I was told that if the ECM was not reset the Idle Air Control Valve that I put in might not move.

I would appreciate any help you can give me.

[old_master]

First step is check fuel pressure at the throttle body. Engine off, fuel pump running, pressure must be 9psi to 13psi.

The pintle length on the IAC must be adjusted before installing. The IAC will self re-set when the vehicle reaches at least 35MPH.

[Aitcheson]

With the way the fuel lines are routed under the throttle body it would be easier to connect the gauge at the outlet of the fuel filter. Iwould get the same reading right?

[old_master]

On your, (model 300) throttle body, fuel pressure must be checked at the outlet of the fuel filter. The connection comes apart and a pressure gauge must be installed between the two open ends of the fuel line.

[Aitcheson]

I got it running for a few and ended up with a 44 engine code (lean). I would prefer not buying a $50 gage but I guess that is all that is left huh?

[old_master]

Harbor freight has one for around $20. Not professional quality, but it works.

[Aitcheson]

I got it to steady out and run. Still running a little rough at certain RPM's with no check engine light. I think that the idle air control valve is in the wrong position. The valve works but it seems me that one of the inputs to the ECM is wrong and it thinks that it needs to be more shut than it truly needs to be.