'94 K1500 305 TBI to '62 327? Motor Swap?

[killer312]

I have a 1994 Chevy K1500 4x4 305 5-speed TBI. I have a 1962-1968 327 Motor bored .030 Over with new everything. I want to put this motor into my truck. Im looking to get a holley manifold to use my TBI and an edlebrock came and lifters set. What will i have to change with this swap, i want to keep as much stock as possiable, i know i need to change exhaust, intake manifold. All in time the ignition will be changed over to somethign a little better later on. What about my serpentine belt will all my accessories, will they bolt up to the heads? will i need a different flywheel? Should I change anthing computer wise? Any help would be great, i dont want to be doing this and losing my shirt having to change everything. The 305 just doesnt have the power! The guys at summit racing said most everythign should bolt up he wasnt sure about the serpentine belt and accessories. Since i have a 1994 It isnt a true vortech is that correct, it has the vortech heads but not a true vortec does this make sence? Thanks guys, All help is appercieated!

[327-C1500]

I just did the same swap into an '89 C1500. Let me know what questions you have.

[327-C1500]

I just did the same swap into an '89 C1500. Let me know what questions you have.

-Kevin

[quaddriver]

what you mean by vortec is the L31 heads - they are better than any chevy head made 62-68 and wont kill compression too much on a 327, the 305 heads *might* have bigger valves than the 327, but honestly, the small journal 327 would be a waste...it wont like the gas unless you work/replace the heads and the larger bearings of the newer motors are better for a truck...as long as all the accessory holes are in the heads/block, all the other crap should bolt up save the lack of a hole for the knock sensor - without a valid KS signal the ECM will retard spark.

[327-C1500]

I agree with quaddriver on the heads as old heads (with no accessory holes) require some work and rework, but it can be done. There's also a matter of the coolant temperature sensor in the head you'll have to address. I disagree with him on the small journal 327 being too weak for a truck as my C1500 stepside only weights 3000 lbs and is working well. Also make sure that you have the forged crank, as they are readily available. He is probably right about C2500's and any of the K/4x4's where you're really working the motor.

Regarding the block, the block holes have not changed, except the newer motors don't have the fuel pump machining completed with one exception: a port above the oil filter in the block wasn't machined on the old blocks and is used for the analog oil pressure sending unit on the newer motors.

The knock sensor can be threaed into the water jacket drain hole (just as done on the 88 - 92 TBI 4.3's) and spark is advanced just fine with the new style distributor.