1995 Ford Escort LX 1.9 Acceleration problem

[jats03]

When I am sitting at a light or stop sign and go to pull out quick my engine putts. Once I am going it is fine even at highway speeds, I have no problem hitting passing gear, it is only when i go to pull out, or if the car is in park and I rev the engine it cuts out a little. I chaned the plugs and wires,pcv valve,air filter and fuel filter and it still does it. can someone help me? Thanks!

[mightymoose_22]

Your idle speed may need to be adjusted. That depends on your type of car though.
You also may have a vacuum leak. Check the hoses at the top of the intake manifold for cracks or tears. Listen carefully for a hissing sound coming anywahere from the air intake area.... manifold gasket, idle control valve, hoses...

[jats03]

Thanks I will check that. I thought I heard a hissing sound when I reved the engine.

[daytrader]

I just went throught this problem with my 95 escort. It turned out to be the MAF sensor - Mass Air Flow sensor - Its about $99 bucks at autozone or discount auto parts.. There is a defect in the part from what I understand but Ford will not put it on the recall list. It takes less than 5 minutes to install. You can always bring it back if it doesn't work. I bought mine from autozone and they let you return that part, always ask though... I couldn't believe that this stupid sensor was causing my acceleration problem and general running problems... Most people/mechanics do not no about this problem and it usually it cost most people hundreds upon hundreds of dollars and still they never get there car fixed right... It took me a month of digging around until I finally found the info I was looking for. Saved me a ton of cash..

Good luck!

[jats03]

I just replaced the MAF Sensor yesterday it is still doing it. I was told it might be the Idle Air Control Valve, where is that located on a 1995 escort 1.9. When the car is cold and I start it the RPM is bewteen 1100 and 1500, once it warms up it drops to 750, when I put the car in gear the rpms drop bewteen 350 and 500. Will the Idle Air Control Valve do this?

[mightymoose_22]

The IAC is on top of the intake manifold, where the large hose from the air filter connects to the manifold (basically, right on top of the throttle body). The part is pretty cheap and can be replaced in 5 minutes. Be sure to replace the gasket as well.
If you are experienceing high RPM's right when the engine starts up, the IAC is likely to blame. This could possibly be where the air leak was that was causing your acceleration problem. It still sounds like a vacuum leak that is causing that.

[jats03]

I just replaced the IAC Valvel today it is still having the same problem, check for vaccum leaks there are none. Check plugs and wires they look good, the last thing I can think of is changing the Throttle Postion Sensor. If this doesen't work I don't know then. I have changed everything I could, Fuel Filter,pcv valve,MAF sensor,air temp. sensor,plugs wires, Iac Valve. There are no warning lights on in the car either.

[jats03]

Also I had the timing belt change in december 2003, And had that checked also and it was good.

[mightymoose_22]

Still sounds like a vacuum problem to me. Your engien is likely sucking in air from somewhere. However... it might be possible that you have a bad head gasket... to a compression test and see what's going on inside.

[MDJR]

I am having a similar problem only worse. My Escort is a 95 w/ 1.9 and when I start it the idle shoots to 3500 rpm's and it gradually reduces itself until it finally rests where it is suppose to, it takes about 2 minutes or so to settle. My check engine light is on. I have replaced all of the popular parts to no avail. There are no vacume leaks. Also no head gasket problems. I have heard that the egr vacume regulator and the evr solenoid might be responsible. I also cannot pull the codes off of this car I have tried three different ways to get codes with no success. Have any of you guys heard about these parts?

[mightymoose_22]

You resurrected a 6 year old thread. It is sometimes best to just start a new one with your own symptoms.
Anyway... you say you changed the popular parts. You will have to say what those parts are.

Your description sounds like the Idle Air Control valve.... you have checked that?

[MDJR]

Yes I changed the iac. Here are the following parts: map, tps, the sensor in the air box, (I forget what it is called) fuel pump, there is a sensor along the firewall with one vacume line running to it that was changed with a flat top, and I changed the coolant temperature sensor. I was thinking about changing the fuel pressure regulator, but I really wanted to know what the other sensors are evr solenoid and the egr vacume regulator. Any help here is greatly appreciated.

[FordMan59]

Do you get any communication at all from the ECU when you try to pull the codes? I had a similar issue with my '88 Pony several years back where the idle speed would go to about 2-3K rpm's and wouldn't settle back down until the engine was shut off and restarted. My problem was a bad ECU and if I remember correctly I couldn't get the ECU to read out any codes either. Another thing to check prior to changing the ECU is the PCV hose, there's a rubber elbow in it and it's very common for it to split causing a vacuum leak. If you're sucking raw air the ECU will richen up the a/f ratio causing a high idle speed.

[MDJR]

Thanks for the input. No I dont get any type of response at all. Every time that I shut mine off hot or cold it always revs to 3500 rpm's and over a period of 2 minutes or so it settles at or around 500/750. The car actually would die when I would give it gas and then I tried a tps sensor and that has seemed to cure that problem. Now the only problem that I have left is the high idle at initial startup. Today I am going to try and change the egr valve and the egr solenoid and or the egr vacume regulator, then the fuel pressure regulator because it is vacume related. If none of that works I will try the ECU. On ford ecu,s do you just change the prom chip and install or do the need to go to the dealer to be changed? Anymore input here is greatly appreciated.

[mightymoose_22]

You are changing a lot of parts... slow down and think things through.
If you aren't able to read your engine code then you might want to tune into the comment above. Those symptoms sound like a good match.
A code reader should be able to test the sensors on the car too... lots of information available to you without changing all the parts.