installing excedy clutch kit, engine also

[94tegRS]

ok clutch in my teg fiunally took a shit on me for good so I bought a exedy kit today on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEBWN%3AIT

anyways I figure since I am gonne be somehwta tearing it apart under the hood, might as well go all out and install my B20 while I am under there. only thing is, when I put in the block gaurd and the pistons I was cleaning the head and after I used a wire wheel on an air tool to clean the ports out, I used a blow gun to blow them clean and blowing through every port I noticed on the combustion chamber side I could see bubbles coming through, so why would my valves not be sealing, anything that would just fix itself when the engien starts runnign and everything moistens and swells? I just remember seeing that commercial where valbvoline max life repairs the valve seals. but those just stop the oil in the head from entering the combustion chamber right? I have heard of lapping the valves but dont know what it is exactly, how do you do it? and is it possible to re-use a headgasket, it was brand new, I bought it, cleaned the head sand put in pistons, retorqued down head and then remembered about the valves leaking and was like OH SHIT. but I had already done it, do I need a new headgasket or would the one I have now be fine if the 2nd time around I torqued the head down about 5 ft/lbs more than I did the first time so it still crushes just a bit? and I was planning on just putting my LS cams into the B20 head when I did it but would it be better to put on the entire B18b head or no, that would raise the compression a little bit wouldnt it, which I dont wanna do it at all.


thanks for any replys in advance. also my 2nd gear and 3rd gear synchros were pretty bad, but the last time I raced it it did go into 2nd and 3rd gear pretty easy with a bit of grinding noise, after that I have ben shifting at 3-3.5k into 2nd and 3rd to get away from that noise and even waited a second to shift once i clutched it to try and avoid any more damage, but the other day, same day the clutch went out, on my way home I tried to hos it and when I took first to 7k, it didnt even go into 2nd at all, tons of grinding, so I put it in neutral for a second back to 2nd and it wengt in with a bad grind, then I took it to 7k again in 3nd and it did the exact same thing into 3rd. then next time I drive my car, I dont even get 10 feet from my house and my clutch is just F'd, clutch pedal feels like it is there but it wopnt go into gear at all, and when I have the clutch in and it is in gear I start it and it still jerks when the starter begins to turn and engagement is ON the floor practically, master cylinder looked like it was leaking so i put in my civic one and bled the system and it still did it, it did once go into every gear but 1st for a couple seconds but once I rolled a bit it didnt work at all again. do you think with my new clutch it will shift better? and I know I cant put nothing like redline MT90, but I heard for alot of cars it quiets the shifting noise alot but since honda uses MTF or 10w30, would using some full synthetic be better at all, and what about when i get my clutch in drive then trans around the block shifting to every gear a few times with some kerosene in the trans (someone told me a bit in te ytrans will clean any gummed up synchros/shift forks/etc.., and I have smelled soe of that engine flush you put in your oil and that sure smells like kerosene) and then putting in some full synthetic. I of course wont try the high rev shifting for 1000 miles or so to break in the B20.