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#1
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Hey guys, here's my 'rex in the snow. These are pretty much all action shots but it's pretty hard to tell.
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1991 CRX SI (black) 15.3 @ 88mph (stock motor) '90 B18A1 swap Custom exhaust *2.25" piping *two glasspacks (inline) *polished flash-cut tip *exits pass. side, front of rear tire. '95 GSR 15" wheels 195/50/R15 Bridgestone Potenza SO-3's AE Eng. front crossmember Susp. Tech. 22mm rear sway bar Susp. Tech. 1.8" lowering springs Tokico Illumina 5-way adj. shocks Powerslot rotors Metal Master pads Goodridge steel-braided brake lines Red painted OEM calipers Skunk2 short shifter Skunk2 shift knob GT Grant steering wheel Red/black racing seats |
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#2
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Hahaha yeah i go take out my car and it WAS fun till i fell in the ditch :x
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#3
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How did you get it out of the ditch?
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#4
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It happened like last winter though.
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#5
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i was having too much fun in the snow the other day in my dx, ended up hitting a bank, broke my bumper cover, and cracked putty on my front fender, backed right out of the ditch though, much to my suprise
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90- crx si w/ a D16a Vtec and a few goodies, oh and 60k miles on it heh |
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#6
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I should have put a disclaimer on that page I posted! I was taking those photos in a virtually empty parking lot and took great care not to slide close to any immovable objects. If you've got to drive in the snow please do so with caution and some commen sense. We had three deaths this morning in Augusta due to snow related collisions, I call them collisions because accidents couldn't have been avoided. If people plan ahead on snow days, leave early and drive slowly with lots of space to slow down a lot of these deaths and non-fatal collisions could be avoided. Now i'm not saying that I do all these things all the time but it's good to keep them in mind when gauging the danger to yourself, your car, and other people/property. With that all said, have fun driving your CRX's in the snow! They're light, hard to flip, and slide like a mf when you pull the e-brake!
"Everybody get your roll on, everybody get your motherf*ckin' roll on WHAT!" --Big Tymers
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1991 CRX SI (black) 15.3 @ 88mph (stock motor) '90 B18A1 swap Custom exhaust *2.25" piping *two glasspacks (inline) *polished flash-cut tip *exits pass. side, front of rear tire. '95 GSR 15" wheels 195/50/R15 Bridgestone Potenza SO-3's AE Eng. front crossmember Susp. Tech. 22mm rear sway bar Susp. Tech. 1.8" lowering springs Tokico Illumina 5-way adj. shocks Powerslot rotors Metal Master pads Goodridge steel-braided brake lines Red painted OEM calipers Skunk2 short shifter Skunk2 shift knob GT Grant steering wheel Red/black racing seats |
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#7
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<- was on a deserted back road, actually on a straight strech none the less, just got a lil too sideways, was practicing working my way out of fishtails, it was a good pratice, learned what not to do, and analized what i did and what i could have done to be more likely to get out of it, i was at the point i realised it'd prolly have been better to yank the ebake and bring my rear end the whole way around instead of fighting it
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90- crx si w/ a D16a Vtec and a few goodies, oh and 60k miles on it heh |
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#8
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usually fishtailing is a result of overcorrecting a skid, try steering towards your goal and not jerking the wheel back and forth. Pulling the e-brake is not a good idea when you're fishtailing, there's no good way to predict where you'll end up, a common mistake is when people start to loop the hit the brakes. Hitting the brakes during a spin will shift weight to the front axle causing the rear to loose grip, meaning if you weren't going to loop, you will now. Same with throttle-lift oversteer, take your foot off the gas mid-turn and shift weight to the front axle causing the rear to slide out. In an oversteer situation with a FWD car you want to hit the gas, not to spin the tires, just to shift weight to the rear axle.
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1991 CRX SI (black) 15.3 @ 88mph (stock motor) '90 B18A1 swap Custom exhaust *2.25" piping *two glasspacks (inline) *polished flash-cut tip *exits pass. side, front of rear tire. '95 GSR 15" wheels 195/50/R15 Bridgestone Potenza SO-3's AE Eng. front crossmember Susp. Tech. 22mm rear sway bar Susp. Tech. 1.8" lowering springs Tokico Illumina 5-way adj. shocks Powerslot rotors Metal Master pads Goodridge steel-braided brake lines Red painted OEM calipers Skunk2 short shifter Skunk2 shift knob GT Grant steering wheel Red/black racing seats |
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#9
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#10
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its good to pump the brakes as long as you dont have ABS, from my experience with skids, i found it better to hit both the brake and the gas equally to stop faster.
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Name: Scott Stable Of Cars I have Owned: 1991 Honda CRX 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 2003 Honda Accord 1998 Chrysler Concorde 2007 Honda Civic 1997 Toyota Camry 1995 Saturn SC2 1996 Ford Taurus 1991 GMC Sierra 2002 Daewoo Leganza 1999 Dodge Ram 2007 Honda CR-V 2003 BMW 325i |
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#11
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1989 DOHC VTEC CRX Si C'mon, it's only a Honduh...can't be fast! ![]() I AM the Anti-Rice!![]() Swap info, Turbo tech, and naked chicks! |
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#12
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aight i put that wrong, i wasn't in a full blown fish tail, i had just started to bring my rear end around the drivers side of the car, the point with my yanking the ebake would be to just let the rear come the rest of the way around and do a nut in the middle of the road
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90- crx si w/ a D16a Vtec and a few goodies, oh and 60k miles on it heh |
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#13
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when you pull your e-brake you're not guaranteed a perfect spin in the middle of the road, there's a good chance you'll spin right off the road into a tree or little girl or something. Locking your rear brakes gives you less control then you allready didn't have so it's usually not a good idea unless you're in a parking lot fucking around. If your back end is coming out you need to give it some gas to transfer weight to the back axle helping your rear tires regain grip. I'm from up north, I drive in snow all the time, I live in GA now and it amazes me how stupid people get when the flakes start to fall.
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1991 CRX SI (black) 15.3 @ 88mph (stock motor) '90 B18A1 swap Custom exhaust *2.25" piping *two glasspacks (inline) *polished flash-cut tip *exits pass. side, front of rear tire. '95 GSR 15" wheels 195/50/R15 Bridgestone Potenza SO-3's AE Eng. front crossmember Susp. Tech. 22mm rear sway bar Susp. Tech. 1.8" lowering springs Tokico Illumina 5-way adj. shocks Powerslot rotors Metal Master pads Goodridge steel-braided brake lines Red painted OEM calipers Skunk2 short shifter Skunk2 shift knob GT Grant steering wheel Red/black racing seats |
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#14
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Quote:
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90- crx si w/ a D16a Vtec and a few goodies, oh and 60k miles on it heh |
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