B16 swap questions, wiht my B20 of course.

[94tegRS]

ok, well I am now thinking of selling my teg instead of my hatch and using that money on the hatch.
but I got a few questions.

ok, I got a brand new in wrapping upper and rear tranny mount for an integra and the stock side motor mount that came with the B20, those are the mounts I would use when dropping it in the hatch correct?

I am goign to get the changeover and not the complete swap cuxz when i got halfway through a project I had bought a 99SI shift linkage setup and 95 GSR axsles, I am assuming those will work for this swap as well, correct?

I am going to opt for the LSD for 300 bucks as well.

the only thing different from complete swap and changover is axles, shift linkage and mounts right?

I am going to get a new B20 headgasket, the T and lines to run the oil and the full race dowel pins that eliminate the need for drilling. I already got the 11:1's bolted into the B20 but I had replaced the head gasket and bolted it in for a non vtec swap, but now I will have the vtec head to swap on. I have torqued the head but not ran it, I still have to repurchase a headgasket correct?

and since I am going to be using the B16 as my base for the CRVTEC, will the B16 water/oil pump and timing belt work(new belt though of course)

anythign else I am gonna need to buy that I dont know of yet. and I know there are a few wires I gotta route to some sensors. is it vtec actuator, knock sensor and vtec pressure or something like that. anyone know what pins on the ECU these are and where exaclty they go, any sites woihth specifics? and any wires that have to be rearanged in my stock harness with the P30 ECU?

I wil run the chevron supreme for sure. I know a guy who built a 11:1 350 for his firebird and said it would ping on anything but chevron or shell supreme.

and welding on the frame is no problem right? my hatch was auto and when i swapped to manual with a same gen civic manual trans. the mount on the frame itself for the upper trans mount pointed forwards and up instead of down/back like the one in the parts civic and now the dist mounting bolt on toop hits the hood abit and the passenger axle comes out at an extreme angle to then wheel. so I gotta cut it, move it and reweld it when i get it all located but wanyted to make sure it wont fry eny sensetive electronics on my car, and no theres no SRS system in it.

[killah_xft]

all I can say is use linkages/belts for that engine you are swapping in, not from the other car... as for the oil/water pumps you should use ones rated for or rated higher than stock required for your engine.. you cannot be too cautious with cooling, and oiling systems for your car. as for electronics.. you should be fine provided you have the correct harness and ECu for that engine, and have compensated for the 11:1 compression in the fuel, and timing issues.

[94tegRS]

actually, I am just hoping that the stock ECU will deal with the compression well enough til I can get a hondata s200 installed, and the belts/ linkages are for what im swapping in, the timing bel;t i was talking about was B16 and im putting in a B16 pretty much but a differetn block, but iread when you do a lsvtec or crvtec if you use a B16 head/oil pump, etc you have to use B16 timing belt and if you use GSR parts then you need the GSR belt.

and the axles are just B series axles, if you can drop in a SI/GSR trans into your LS teg I am guessing that the axles are all the same, and the shift linkage is from a 99 si which comes with a B16.

[mjline99]

which engine would u guys say is best for a 88-91 crx. best performance cheapest easiest install.

[94tegRS]

well, id say ZC is probably the easiest and cheapest, you use your tranny, your harness, and so obviously your linkage/axles/etc... and you can even use your ECU to run it, would probably be better with like a 88-89 integra since that engine is morre like the ZC than the stock CRX plant, yours isnt the SI is it???