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| Forced Induction Discuss topics relating to turbochargers, superchargers, and nitrous oxide systems. |
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#1
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need some help with a turbo d16
hi, I currently have a 95 civic ex with the d16z6 VTEC engine. I am looking to get 250 hp out of it as a daily driver with the ability to hit 300 or maybe more with a little nitrous at the track, so I am trying to find out what I would need to do to the engine to make it stable at this power level. As of now I am running a turbonetecs T3/T4 turbo, skunk 2 cam gear and a custom 2 1/4" exhaust. If any one has experience with a similar setup any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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#2
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Re: need some help with a turbo d16
block gaurd and heah gap..u can pretty much double ur boost..the prob low compression pistons...
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#3
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Re: Re: need some help with a turbo d16
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If your wanting to push around the 300hp range by boosting more and adding a little nitrous, I would recommend at least low compression pistons(JE,Weisco,etc.),stronger rods(Eagle,etc.),Darton Sleeves,bigger injectors,Hondata or something similar,iridium plugs,upgraded ignition system,maybe a block guard if you feel like it,maybe some turbo cams if you feel like it(Skunk 2,Crower), and whatever else I missed that hopefully someone can pick up on With all this stuff you should be able to up your boost and add a little nitrous if you like and make 250 or 300hp no problem.
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#4
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wow,
d16 boosting on 16psi?? umm.. if you want to have a long term engine... BUY A DART BLOCK!!! and ow... i havent seen a d16 boosting 9psi and above... though ive seen a d16 boosting 8psi with a stock block.. ow.. 300HP is too farfetched on a d16 (maybe u can mod ur engine to 210-240 given its fully moded), and running 300HP @ 16psi??? you'll get killed on a car running that high on daily dude.. one twiched on the pedal bye bye you go!! hehehhe. but i wanna mod ur d16 i suggest, umm.... change the pistons to low comp (wiseco or JE) , new conrods (eagle), turbo cams (crane or crower) , and resleeve ur engine (darton)... OR BUY A DART BLOCK... hehehhe.. and and buy a stage 2 clutch kit.. (ACT is good), and make your engine bulletproof, ARP headstuds, main crank bolts, and rod bolts... that could make the engine last long and it would be bulletproof.. with those things you can make any engine give more HP.. and ur running turbo so better make it really bulletproof.... p.s. WHY DONT U GET A engine swap? heheheheh... hope it helped.. heheheh
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#5
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too far fetched huh? here is a little something I found on the net, check it out. This guy is runnin a SOHC without nos.
"I finally had my car dynoed! Originally I planned to make a real run using 118 octane, no exhaust and 20+ psi. Unfortunately I couldn't get 118 from my usual spot. JG had 118 but my tank was too full even after driving to JG to even bother mixing 92 and 118. Anyway I ran my car with 92 octane pump gas, a full exhaust with catalytic convertor and 14psi. This is my regular street setup so I was definitely interested to see what it would make. Unfortunately I didn't make as much power as I expected. Of course the full exhaust system really corks up a turbo cars power so I lost at least 30-40hp from the exhaust alone. Higher octane gas would also help me run higher boost thus more power. Another fact to consider is that my DFI program runs the engine SUPER rich to prevent detonation and serious stress on my engine. Javier tuned the DFI this way since my car is a daily driver and my only mode of transportation. After the car was pulled onto the dynojet I adjusted the boost on my AVC-R to .75 bar and 40-45% duty. The car boosted 14psi and made about 300 hp 250+ ft. lbs at the flywheel. The hp TO THE WHEELS was 240 hp and 211 ft. lbs." hows that for too far fetched? And if you actually take the time to read my first post I said around 250 hp daily with the ability to hit 300+ at the track, and since I am already runnin about 200 hp daily in any weather including snow I know 250 isnt too much. I have already done the turbo install with the cam gear, act prolite 8.4lb flywheel and the act xtreme duty clutch. As of now I am making about 200 hp with my d16 so an engine swap wouldnt have been worth it since I would have spent the same ammount of money and I would be making maybe at the most 180 hp. DOHC isnt always the answer. Im mainly building this car inspite of all of these other honda guys that thinks the only way to make power is with the B-series, but it is still nice to blow away these import haters too.
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#6
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ah...
wel, .you're ryt... all egines can run like hell.. if properly tuned and moded ryt... heheheh.. but its a nice project you got there... let us know about the progress of your d16 mods.. and how it comes out.. good luck and godbless... keep us posted.. thanks.. __________________________________________________ ___________ Honda Civic 97' b16a sir-II Drag Gen 3 turbo kit, Spearco Intercooling system, HKS SSBOV, CP Pistons (8.5:1). Crower ConRods, Crower Turbo Cams, DART block, AEM Cam gears, ARP studs and bolts........ and etc........ (too tired to type all the mods) |
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#7
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Re: Re: Re: need some help with a turbo d16
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and i have buddies of mne that are running 15 PSI daily on there d16.. |
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#8
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Re: need some help with a turbo d16
http://www.cardomain.com/id/translam
heres his website..he owns the green 92 HB..second pic down.... " own a couple "customs" I guess. One is a 92' civic hatch... fully turbocharged. It's quite a handfull. 15lbs boost street, vortech FMU, wrx turbo, Blitz BOV, custom intercooler, APEX AFC, Autometer guages, short throw, full mandrel bent tubing for charge pipe and exhaust.4-1 turbo header made in house. " |
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#9
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a stock d16 will not handle 16 psi no way if you get it to run have fun for the day your motor runs lol
__________________
MODS: Motor :jdm b16 block, itr head, skunk 2 cam gears, msd ignition, intake, exhaust, straight pipe, skunk 2 ecu. act race clutch Suspension : grnd cntrl coilovers, 4 way adj shocks , spoon strut bar, skunk 2 sway bar, itr control arms, energy bushings misc. : super nice jdm seats, momo detachable steering wheel, Jdm clutster, Spoon Cf duckbill wing, vision smoked amber turn signals. COMING VERY SOON IN DAYS LS vtec ARP ROD BOLTS HEAD BOLTS AND 75 SHOT OF GIGLE JUICE look in my galler |
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#10
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Can't believe you haven't been to http://www.turbod16.com yet. You can do 220 to the wheels daily but your taking some risk. The rods in a d16 are the weak link. At 14-15psi, those rods will snap like twigs, they may last for a short time but they will break.
First thing would be rods and pistons for up to 300 hp. Anything over that and you need to get the block sleeved. No need to lower you compression if the block is built. Low compression=crap, keep the stock compression 9.6:1 and get the car tuned. Bad tuning will kill even the strongest motor. ARP headstuds are also a must, D series head studs aren't very strong and will lift under boost. Seen a ton of them do that. Mine started lifting as low as 7psi. Next would be a hondata or AEM EMS with UEGO(wideband O2) for fuel/ignition timing management. That guy with the FMU at 300 hp is asking for trouble. Most people wouldn't even think about running a FMU over 8psi. 350hp is possible with some 550cc injectors. |
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#11
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Re: need some help with a turbo d16
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