Buick Regal Stalls

[Tom@lula]

I have a 1997 1/2 (actually the 1998 body style) Buick Regal GS. For the past year, I have been having intermittent stalling problems. Started out by stalling while in motion ( as much as highway speeds) and quickly the motor would come back on before the car even slowed as little as 5 mph. The problem has progressed recently to stalling completely out requiring me to pull off the road. Often the car restarts immediately. Lately though it has become more problematic and takes several minutes to start. In the past couple of days, it has stalled over 6 times. For the first time yesterday, after having car parked at work, when going to leave it would not start, took over two hours to get started. I have replaced the fuel filter. Car has 126,000 miles. No check engine light or codes. Dealer not much help. Said without any codes they dont know what is wrong and need problem to happen while in their possession. Really lost trying to figure this out. Any help is much appreciated. [email protected]

[chickman]

Tom I have what sounds to be the same problem with a 95 regal. Mine seems to be temperature related. Mine stalls going down the road and the engine will quit (tach goes to zero). sonetimes it is just for a second and it starts back on its own. sometimes it quits completely but can be restarted right away and sometimes can take a few seconds to a few minutes. The first 15 miles of my morning commute has no stops and this problem happens nearly every morning at about the same place (about 10 to 13 miles down the road). The distance seems to be further when it's cooler outside. The other part of this problem is sometimes after the car has gotten up to normal temperature and I make a stop for a few minutes, the car will not start. It can take 45 minutes before it will start again. I have determined that there is no ignition at this time and thought the ignition module maybe was getting too hot to operate so I tried soaking a sponge in cold water and putting it on the bottom of the module and cooling it down to see if that would help. It didn't. I have had in to several repair shops and got the same answer - it has to have the problem at the shop before they can determine the cause. I sure hope someone can help on this....

CArl...........

[Tom@lula]

Carl; thanks for imput. The temperature related theory is correct. Mine also seems to run differently depending on outside temperature not engine temperature. Our problems seem all to similar. I have also found similar problem on Riviera section. And does not sound too encouraging. I first suspected the fuel pump but have been reluctant to spend $300 to find out. Now I dont think that is it based on some of responses to other vehicle problems with same engine config. Problem is now I really dont know what to think. Seems to be alot of people pointing at crank sensor. But they always seem to check out ok with test but have not found where anyone may have replaced the sensor. Please let me know if you find out more. What a nightmare!

[chickman]

Tom check out this thread..

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=150163

[Tom@lula]

Carl............

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately I have seen some other posts where the crank sensor, ICM, fuel pump, filter, strainer, and more have been replaced and thought had fixed the problem only to find that a few weeks later they were back to square one. Didnt you say you were able to confirm not getting spark? I really wish someone could say they successfully figured this out. I emailed buick, asking for help. They are not much help either, seems they want to forward my problem to dealer which I have already been there. Losing faith in GM products!!

Anyway, I will be trying a few tests this weekend if the problem happens. Maybe I will find out something.

[chickman]

Yes I did confirm that I had no spark. I know what you mean about fixing things and thinking you solved the problem. There are so many things that can cause an intermittent problem like the one we have that you could go broke trying to correct it.
The next time it happens at home, I am going to try the water trick on the crank sensor. Of course, now that I know about the water trick, it probably won't happen at home........

[OKC Regal]

Originally Posted by Tom@lula

Carl............

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately I have seen some other posts where the crank sensor, ICM, fuel pump, filter, strainer, and more have been replaced and thought had fixed the problem only to find that a few weeks later they were back to square one. Didnt you say you were able to confirm not getting spark? I really wish someone could say they successfully figured this out. I emailed buick, asking for help. They are not much help either, seems they want to forward my problem to dealer which I have already been there. Losing faith in GM products!!

Anyway, I will be trying a few tests this weekend if the problem happens. Maybe I will find out something.

I am a technician of 28 years with considerable GM experience, and I'll share with you a "layman's terms" approach at finding your intermittent problem. Having read your description of the intermittent problem you're having, although a faulty crank sensor, ign module or fuel pump can cause intermittents, most often when they fail they will let the engine not start long enough for a tech to find the culprit; by your description I would be more suspecting of the ECM (brain), as I have witnessed this type of failure on numerous occasions and each time I was able to duplicate the symptom with a "tap test". Here's the test, however crude it may seem, do it anyway, so here goes. Access the ECM ( I think your model year uses a black ECM with cooling fins on the outside....I don't recall the location of the unit, if I were at my shop right now I'd look it up for you). Remove it without unplugging the wire connectors and start the engine. Tap with one hand on the outside of the unit with a force no larger than a clap of your hands when cheering for the Sooners .If the engine falters at all, have the ECM replaced...can't do it yourself, as the Dealer has to program it with software before it will run. Hope this helps, if not, let me know.

[SuperFudd]

Chickman,

You keyed "Mine stalls going down the road and the engine will quit (tach goes to zero)." That looks like an "AH HA!" to me. Your tach going to zero while the car is still moving in gear means your engine is still turning, yet your tach, and so your computer says it is not. My first guess would be that crank shaft sensor thingy.

Don
96 3.8L Regal

[chickman]

Don, thanks for the guess. The sensor looks like the odds on favorite. I think it has to be the CS sensor or the ECM. Since it has gotten colder down here the problem has almost gone away, but I'm sure as soon as it warms up again it'll be back. I'm going to get the sensor replaced before then..............

Carl......

[chickman]

Crank shaft sensor replaced - problem fixed
Thanks for the help guys, Carl.........

[Hypsi87]

Originally Posted by OKC Regal

I am a technician of 28 years with considerable GM experience, and I'll share with you a "layman's terms" approach at finding your intermittent problem. Having read your description of the intermittent problem you're having, although a faulty crank sensor, ign module or fuel pump can cause intermittents, most often when they fail they will let the engine not start long enough for a tech to find the culprit; by your description I would be more suspecting of the ECM (brain), as I have witnessed this type of failure on numerous occasions and each time I was able to duplicate the symptom with a "tap test". Here's the test, however crude it may seem, do it anyway, so here goes. Access the ECM ( I think your model year uses a black ECM with cooling fins on the outside....I don't recall the location of the unit, if I were at my shop right now I'd look it up for you). Remove it without unplugging the wire connectors and start the engine. Tap with one hand on the outside of the unit with a force no larger than a clap of your hands when cheering for the Sooners .If the engine falters at all, have the ECM replaced...can't do it yourself, as the Dealer has to program it with software before it will run. Hope this helps, if not, let me know.

Welcome to the forums. Anyway My GN lately has been running like crap. I tried the cam, crank, sensors and all sorts of other stuff. It turned out to be the computer. The tap test works on mine. I did this a couple of months ago.

[Grec]

We had this same scenario It started out like it would stall for no reason and then you could put it back in park and restart. It mostly stalled while moving and on warmer days (heat related). After time you would have to let it sit before it would restart. Computer was not giving any fault codes - only 2 undocumented codes. Well after taking it to the 4th mechanic and down $300 it was the ignition switch. He verified there was a short in the ignition switch and it has been running fine since
it was replaced. This went on for 2 months and we were about to give up! Luckily we didn't let the 3rd mechanic replace the computer like he wanted too We even had it to 2 different dealers! This was a 1997 Buick Regal LS 3.8L 71K miles. We realize this could have been a host of things, but maybe this will help someone pulling out their hair someday. We tried the crankshaft wiggle thingy posted on here and it wouldn't stall. [email protected]

[dove-7]

My 2cents. I have been having the excat same problem that started officially yesterday. My had idle back n forth before had but never really cut off. I had to wait for it to restart it.

I did a diagnostic on it, first there were no codes, then there was a code 26. Then the next day there was no code, then suddenly there were codes 27, 28, and 29, but for some wierd reason no 26.

I looked my car over and over. It had to be either a shortage in the wire system or a bad sensor. I'm wagering that the Buicks have a bad wiring system because I've been having things either short on me or just plain old have a shortage, such as my radio. It one minute the volume works another it won't.

Anyways, I found the solution to my problem. It was my MAF sensor. Massive Air Flow sensor. I unplugged it my engine light came on and now the cafr starts up. You can here the car idle a little bit on the start because it is going to bypass the computer when you start it up. The computer can't detect it to tell if the sensor is a bad one or not, so it can't tirn off your car.

But the sensor must be changed for better gas mileage. I'm thinking that this may be the majority of the problems on here.

[dove-7]

Originally Posted by OKC Regal

I am a technician of 28 years with considerable GM experience, and I'll share with you a "layman's terms" approach at finding your intermittent problem. Having read your description of the intermittent problem you're having, although a faulty crank sensor, ign module or fuel pump can cause intermittents, most often when they fail they will let the engine not start long enough for a tech to find the culprit; by your description I would be more suspecting of the ECM (brain), as I have witnessed this type of failure on numerous occasions and each time I was able to duplicate the symptom with a "tap test". Here's the test, however crude it may seem, do it anyway, so here goes. Access the ECM ( I think your model year uses a black ECM with cooling fins on the outside....I don't recall the location of the unit, if I were at my shop right now I'd look it up for you). Remove it without unplugging the wire connectors and start the engine. Tap with one hand on the outside of the unit with a force no larger than a clap of your hands when cheering for the Sooners .If the engine falters at all, have the ECM replaced...can't do it yourself, as the Dealer has to program it with software before it will run. Hope this helps, if not, let me know.

Opps, that post was meant for this guy. read my first post. I'm betting that your mAf sensor isn't reading correctly.

[Bassasasin]

I had numorous stalls with my 94 lesabre
SYMPTOMS: Spedometer starts going up 10mph above speed then down to nothing, chugg and stalls.. Dash warning lights flash a little and then either a complete stall or strong chug chug and a restart at speed....CRUISE TOO when engaging would flash cruise and once again then no cruise.(code in the computer wouldnt allow cruise)
If you have no engine stalling a cruise vent leak will disengage it in a similar way. Cruise vent leak can be somewhere from the vacuum brake pedal vent or the Servo vent valve)

I first Swapped most the cheap engine sensor parts out.. BUT finally FIXED it all ...

PCM module fixed it..

Cheapest way is to:
Find a used one and swap it.. or get one from a "U pull it" junk yard.(popular here).
Very easy swap on mine 3 screws and seperate the airbag connector on the back of the passenger kick panel. Computer unclips from its holder and the connectors unclip from theirs.. EASY.. open the prom plate (torx) and then swap your old prom to the other newer PCM..

Dan