AC / Heater Blower Stays on w/ Ignition Off

[MeatPopsicle]

When I turn the ignition off in my '94 Park Avenue, the blower fan stays on (directing the air flow inside to the heater vent) I had to pull the wire harness off it so the battery wouldn't drain. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated, I really miss the AC.

[Flatrater]

If you have auto climate control your blower motor module shorted out you will need to replace this part!! It is located above and to the passenger side of the blower motor on the case.

[Shortbus]

Originally Posted by mechanic856

The solution to your problem is simple. The heater/AC, reostat fluctuator bypass valve, may be depleted of an important element (strontium). Strontium is an eletcrochemical coating that allows electrons to flow in a centrifical motion throughout the motor assembly. The depletion occurs in vehicles primarily found in hot, humid environments. The solution to your problem is simple, replace the Strontium, fix the problem. Strontium in it's liquid form can be found in (amonium chloride), for the layman, any ammonia based household cleaner. Now that you have the Stronium, you must start the fan motor by turning the ignition key to the on position. As the fan motor is running pour the Stronium solution over it slowly, allow the motor to run for no longer than 12 minutes, but no shorter than 11. Turn the ignition to the off position, for EXACTLY 37 seconds, while the ignition is off quickly disconnect and re-connect the battery. This will re-set the cars computer diagnostic uplink port allowing for a fresh reading from the blower motor (GM DIAGNOSTIC UPDATE 01566-7585 9/12/1995). The computer should recognize the blower motor as part of the cars systems, and turn it on and off accordingly. If you have any more questions, you can email me directly at [email protected]

Your a dumbass

[MeatPopsicle]

Boy am I glad that I ignored Flatrater's comment and waited for advice from mechanic856. What a time I had locating the strontium. YEAH RIGHT!

This is for Flatrater... THANK YOU so very much, I installed the new blower motor module (located exactly where you said it would be) this morning and shortly afterwards enjoyed my now working again AC. Residing in Florida, you've got to sympathized with my last week and a half of driving HELL. THANK YOU again Flatrater and also thanks to whoever came up with this web site.

Side note to John.... I agree!

[mechanic856]

Originally Posted by John

Your a dumbass

I guess you have no idea... Strontium has been used on the Space Shuttle's toilet seats. To stop anyone from falling in.... The module worked to cure the problem... Meatpopsicle is a friend of mine... We got him good....Have a sense of humor ... It was well written!!!!!!

[Shortbus]

Originally Posted by mechanic856

I guess you have no idea... Strontium has been used on the Space Shuttle's toilet seats. To stop anyone from falling in.... The module worked to cure the problem... Meatpopsicle is a friend of mine... We got him good....Have a sense of humor ... It was well written!!!!!!

Who cares, we are here to provide as helpful and accurate information as possible, when people are searching these forums looking for information to fix their car and they come upon this nonsense, it makes us all look stupid and discredits the forum. The search engines pull keywords from these post's.

Go to off topic to joke around, there is a place for that. Don't do it in the technical forums.

[tman]

Well, this matter is settled, lets proceed with the thread now.

[InsaneWayne]

They are correct about the blower speed control module being shorted and needing replacing. However, the module is actually the fuse for the motor and instead of blowing into an open circuit (no power output) it fuses into a closed circuit (power output always even w/ign. off). Some blower motors develop intermittent shorts and be the cause of the failure of the module. Why pay $100/ module when you can place a 30 fuse in a weather tight holder inline with the fan? We went one step further and spent a buck at radio shack and installed a 50 ohm 10 watt resistor in parallel with the fuse. The purpose for the resistor is in the event that the fuse blows, then the motor will run at 1/3 speed without causing any damage to the module. In sub zero weather, this will save a lot of stress in the event that the fuse does blow, the fan will at least still allow heat.
Remember: when buying electrical parts they are not warranted against failures do to other faults.

[MeatPopsicle]

Hi There Insane! and thank you for your time in writing another suggestion towards my original problem. Since then I have developed a new one.... the "Inflatable Air Restraint" light nows stays on constantly on my dash. Any ideas?