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Old 03-03-2012, 05:27 PM
Recoil spring Recoil spring is offline
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Bought my first Lincoln Town Car, spark plug question?

I bought a 2000 Lincoln Town Car yesterday, I am an ex-mechanic and would like to replace the spark plugs myself. From the little info I can get it seems every 30,000 miles. Do I need a deep socket to get to them, and if so, what size? Do I need anti-seizing compound for the threads?

The reason I am asking this question is on my 1997 Oldsmobile LSS 3.8 liter engine you can go up to 100,000 miles with platinum plugs, but it is recommended to replace them sooner, say 70,000 mile to reduce load on the coils when the plugs wear. Years ago I had read in Popular Mechanics that Ford came out with a spark plug that will last 100,000 miles, is that still true?

Should the oil in the differential housing be replaced periodically? How often on the transmission? I overheard a mechanic telling a customer regarding his Ford Explorer concerning a tranny flush, that it took a special machine and around 2 hours to flush it out. I was there to get my Olds certified for the annual vehicle check that they want done in Texas. Oregon and Minnesota stopped requiring this when I lived in those places.

So far I really like the ride of the car, I wanted to get back to Fords after years of General Motors cars.


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Old 03-04-2012, 03:44 PM
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olopezm olopezm is offline
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Re: Bought my first Lincoln Town Car, spark plug question?

Hello!

Yes, you need a deep socket, it's 5/8 and I would advise you to use one of those universal joints for the ratchet too. Anti seizing compound seems to be a little controversial, some users advise to use and some others don't I guess is up to you. What it really is important is to USE A TORQUE WRENCH (15lb/ft) when changing plugs. The plugs are known to blow out form the engine when not properly torqued and that will take the threads on the head with them (you don't want that).

I remember reading form some users who get around 70k miles with double platinum plugs (Autolite app104, you might want to confirm that number first).

For vehicle maintenance ou might want to take a look at THIS LINK

Some older models have a torque converter drain plug which will make changing transmission fluid an easier task. However I don't know which year Ford decided to remove it. If yours doesn't have it then you can still do it yourself with no special machine by removing the return line on the transmission (upper one) and following this procedure:


- Use some plastic (milk) jugs with marks at each quart or 1/2 quart.
- Remove the cooler line, not sure which one as I've never done it in my Town Car because it has a TC drain plug, attach a piece of hose to it and direct it to the jug.
- Start the engine and let the fluid flow, KEEP AN EYE ON IT, as soon as the flow becomes uneven (pump starts to cavitate) turn the engine off. This should leave a minimum of fluid in the pan which helps to make things a little less messy.
- Raise the car and remove the pan.
- Remove the old filter (careful a small amount of fluid will come out of it) and the small rubber seal which (very often) stays stuck in the transmission, be careful not to damage the aluminum surface; when I do mines I use long needle pliers.
- Clean as much as you can the inside of the transmission, use a lint free cloth.
- Lube, with fresh fluid, the seal on the new filter and install it in the transmission, watch the orientation and make sure it's fully seated.
- Clean the pan, magnet and the gasket (it's reusable). Again LINT FREE CLOTH.
- You can use a small amount of black RTV sealer on the gasket if you want to. It will help to hold the gasket in place.
- Install the pan and install the bolts just finger tight.
- Torque the bolts to 9 lb-ft in an alternating sequence. If you don't have a torque wrench a snug fit will be fine. Remember DON'T OVER TORQUE THEM. A small leak is better than a stripped bolt. You can easily re-torque it to fix the leak.
***This is where the marked jugs come useful***
- Refill the transmission with the same amount you drained the first time.
- Start the engine again until the pump starts to cavitate.
- Refill with same amount of fluid and repeat until the fluid starts to look cherry red which should take around 12 qts.
- Reconnect the cooler line to the transmission being careful not to strip the threads. Use your hand during the first turns and again don't over torque it.

Oscar.
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